Have you checked that you didn't swap ground and signal for either of the outputs? I probably would have used blue wire for both the grounds and red wire for both the signals to avoid this mistake.
You're tapping SID 1's output directly from the chip. Do you have any kind of circuitry between it and the output jack? You should ideally have a transistor circuitry like the one on the board, or just reuse the one on the C64 motherboard. Or at the very least a 1k resistor and 10 uF capacitor (example values) in series to protect the chip and remove the DC offset from the signal.


(3 replies, posted in Releases)

Y'all are all wrong! The problem was that the links started with an upper-case H. This made the URL parser turn this


into this:


No colon was omitted on the part of the poster. This was done by the browser.

At the request of nordloef, I modded Carillon to include a waveform editor for ch3 in the ROM. To try it, download carillon-wf.zip from here. Bug reports and feature requests are accepted.


Calavera wrote:
nitro2k01 wrote:

Sure it's not just a random troll?

Nullsleep's troll account.

But do you have any reason to believe that other than the name?

Calavera wrote:

(This is nullsleep's alt account, fyi)

Sure it's not just a random troll?

You know what, changed my mind. The sexist stuff (and following discussion) is now moved to the graveyard and I gave Martin a two week ban.

No, probably not normal. Can you do what I suggested above with regard to that? Please check during the startup sequence that it cycles through every LED and that none are missing from the sequence. Then also press the mode button and see if that does anything.

Correct, that's the 5V which is normally unconnected if you're using external power.

Also the picture of the link connector can be kind of confusing it's showing the link connector as seen on the Gameboy, which would mean that the connector would be mirrored if you looked at the plug. BUT that image is incorrect and you have to pretend that you're looking at the actual plug on the cable instead.

Try this. Just to confirm, this assumes in both cases looking at the connector from the front.

The changes from the pictured wiring, in words:
On the link connector:
* Move the green pin back on the connector back to where it was originally.
* Move the red pin to where you just removed the green pin from.

On the DIN5 connector:
* Move the blue wire to the outermost pin, opposite side of where the red one is.
* Move the green wire to where you just moved the blue wire from.

Assuming I didn't mess up, that should work.

Can you tell me exactly which pin on the plug you swapped from and to where? And also where on the board you connected that wire?

As for the status LEDs. They should do a blink sequence for testing on startup, then light up only one LED (when idle) indicating the mode. Carefully check if any of the LEDs never light up during the startup sequence. It's possible you connected one LED reverse or otherwise incorrectly and that that LED happens to be the active mode. You should also be able to get around this by trying to press the button to switch modes and see if any LED lights up. Something else could be wrong but start with that.

That mod is only necessarily if you want to power the Arduinoboy through the link cable instead of using external power. Choose one or the other. Also, you need a ground connection over the link cable. If you used the ground pin for the pin swap, you need to connect ground through the shielding of the cable. If you used the data out pin, this is not a problem but then of course you're losing the MIDI out capability.

As it is now, you're backfeeding power into the Arduinoboy through the data pins of the link port, which is what is making the backlight light up dimly. This would happen regardless of the pin swap, though.

Just to clarify, I didn't make Pushpin I just modded it.


(10 replies, posted in Trading Post)

Moved. For future reference, if this happens, using the report function on the post in question is the most efficient way to contact the mods/admins about stuff like this.

Little FM 0.5.2 released. Fixes a bug where some files would incorrectly fail to load with the message “no blockjump”.

Get it here: http://blog.gg8.se/wordpress/gameboy-re … -for-lsdj/


(222 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

With that said, I'm not sure Pushpin is the GB MIDI panacea. mGB is probably over all a better solution. But now you have the choice. smile


(222 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Boom! Here's a version of Pushpin that works with SPI mode. (Arduinoboy/nanolooop MIDI).

http://blog.gg8.se/wordpress/2016/11/14 … loop-midi/