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the part you are looking for is a vactrol.  they are essentially just what you described...  a LED and sensor encased in a black gloop.

might i suggest the wonderful bridechamer for such a part: http://bridechamber.com/bridechamber.co … d_ICs.html

i think that is a cool idea personally, as vactrols give a circuit a certain organic quality, and i personally like them.

however, i've never used vactrols for getting different resistance values from the LDR.  only on/off states....  well, on-resistance and off-resistance, really.

the idea is, when the LED inside the gloop is lit, the LDR legs give you the on-resistance (lets say...  100kohms).  when the LED inside the gloop is off, the you get off-resistance (could be 0ohms, could be something else...  read the datasheet).

however, i really don't know if you could dim the LED and get different resistance values on the LDR.

does anyone know? 

edit -- yes, i know LDRs are light-dependent resistors.  however, its also the norm (from my exposure) for vactrols to be for on/off switching, at least in modular synths, which does glide slightly when changing states.  i just don't know if vactrol LDRs are even made sensitive enough to be used for something like this...  that's my question really.  i know they glide from on to off....  but, i've never used them to maintain a resistance value between on and off... 

alternatively...

you could use a digi-pot if you wanted.  i'm sure there are plenty of tutorials for *duino boards that will accept either CV and/or MIDI, and you would need to translate these values into a resistance value in the digi-pot.  there is enough support for arduino you may even find this code already available, or at least edited easily.

edit edit - ust to make sure i don't lead you down the wrong path....  resistors aren't what you want for CV control.  resistors impede the current flow, which in accordance with ohm's law, drops the voltage.  voltage control is what you want.  impeding the current flow is not what you want, however.  this is part of the reason resistors aren't meant for voltage regulation in a circuit, but people use an IC for this which will not impede the curent like a resistor but will control the voltage.

in other words, its perfectly fine to use vactrols for a switch replacement, and depending on if the LDRs are sensitive enough for analog control, pot replacement.

but, not for CV control. 

listen to logan on that one.

hey!  pretty cool man

ok,

this is completely irrelevant to the backlight

but,

the sega flashcarts are back in stock:

http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/se … ith-sd-mmc

good hunting...

if the screen is still glued down or whatnot...

its probably the adhesive ring around the screen.

if you wanted, you can take off the plastic screen cover, and push it out that way.  rather than try to pry it off the adhesive.

remember....  only as much heat as needed

confidence!

just don't expect to be able to use it as a phone with good reception with at&t unless you live in a major metropolitan area.

they make great ipod touches though...

the utilization of space is very well thought out for sure.  you've got a good mind for 3D placement NeX

sorry, overlooked your questions earlier...

the basic process is the same, yes.

the MAIN difference in installation is that you don't need to clip off any of the white plastic to the left side.  our backlight shines from the bottom upwards, rather than from the left side like backlights out there.

so, don't cut that plastic.  there is a TINY piece to cut, but its just two small snips.

the tutorial will be out before the kits arrive to everyone that has pre-ordered.

and, when the parts arrive, pre-ordering is done and real ordering happens.  the exact same thing...

i hope that helps

i think if you are familiar with the basic installation method of backlights in general, this will be as easier, if not more so.

the stock polarization film comes out, put in the backlight (wires coming out the bottom), put in the extra diffusion film, put in the polarization film, that's it fr the backlight part.  the rest is mounting the PCB, which is just drilling 5 small holes.

or, if you just want to set it and forget it, just do that and hide the PCB inside the DMG, don't drill any holes.

i'll get some pics up soon, and documentation/tuts will follow shortly.