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Did you see this?

https://www.circuitbenders.co.uk/forsal … TCPCB.html

The switch can just connect and disconnect the output from the LTC module to the clock pin in your gameboy. There can be glitches but it works for the most part if your switch is fast and clean.

It was years ago, but it was this size:
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/potent … meter.html
These are smaller yet and I use them  quite often in other projects:
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/potent … b-9mm.html

That one can be bought with metal, plastic, smooth or knurled shafts. The values linked are obviously not correct for your project tho.

This isn't really made for us, mind you. I gather that the main demographic is the millennial-nostalgia bubble. You know, for playing pokemans ironically.  The six or seven chiptune artists who have 89 bucks on hand aren't the main focus.
Besides, the commercial distribution of Trash's code would just be another strike for hyperkin. I don't think they want to touch that a second time around. - granted, you were talking about an internal arduino boy.
This is just speculation, but I think the shell is going to be pretty stuffed. If its got a Li-po battery then it will need new components to protect over/undercharging. Two speakers for stereo, etc. An internal arduinoboy is already tough enough to jam into an official gb pocket. But we'll see.

inb4

Anyone remember the VJ?

Yo catskull, can you try this out on my dual ended pcb? I haven't any 8-bit roms on hand.

Very cool. I can't wait to see it evolve into something larger.

Looks correct.
There is only so much you can do , friend. The gameboy is not a perfect beast, but a little hiss is to be expected. If you want it gone, then emulate.
As for your questions, the larger the capacitance, the Marge the physical size generally speaking. 
A pro-sound mod will also help a tad.

The static is life. The static is love. Embrace the static.