Glad you successfully sorted that out thanks to nitro2k01. There's nothing like building your own stuff.]]> Glad you successfully sorted that out thanks to nitro2k01. There's nothing like building your own stuff.]]>As for the other 8515, I'm gonna try it out some more and see if it will take programming again, but I'm pretty sure it's fried.
]]>Input to 6MHz Crystal Oscillator Cell. This pin can also be driven by an external
6MHz clock if required. Note: Switching threshold of this pin is VCC/2, so if driving
from an external source, the source must be driving at 5V CMOS level or AC-
coupled to centre on VCC/2.
So without that fuse bit set, the clock line will not reach the switching threshold and the FTDI chip will not be properly clocked, and USB will not work.
So, now I want to know, is one of the Atmega chips actually broken?
]]>Did you check the value of the capacitors? I have new fuse values which I think may solve the problem: Low: 2E, High: C9. Would hate to have you send the flasher all over the world if the solution is something simple like that.
]]>]]>-U lfuse:r:-:h -U hfuse:r:-:h -U efuse:r:-:hSo I pop the atmega back in the programmer and check everything - apparently when I set the high fuse, avrdude is actually putting that value in the efuse slot - I'm getting
"Fuses OK (H:FF, E:D9, L:EE)"
the hell?
edit: to be more clear, if I set an lfuse value, it goes to L. If I attempt to set an hfuse value, it goes to E. If I attempt to set an efuse value, it says there's no such thing!
]]>The quick'n'dirty way to solve this would be to add a crystal between the same two pins as in the actual circuit. The value shouldn't be too critical for just programming the chip. Any crystal >=1 MHz that doesn't exceed the rating for the chip should work well enough for the purpose.
You MAY be able to program the chip adding the -B 1.0 switch to avrdude, but if it works it will be slow as a dog's butt.
The less quick'n'dirty way of solving this is to add some form of programming header to the board, so the AVR chip can be programmed in circuit. If you had sent it to me, I probably would have done this just for my own convenience.
However, with this in mind you should be able to plug the chip back in to the GB programmer and notice an improvement. There's no code on the chip, so it won't work as a flasher, but now that the crystal should be oscillating at 6 MHz, the FTDI chip should be identified since it should be able to communicate over USB.
]]>