Do I understand you correctly that the console stopped working after adding the capacitor?
It boots up but doesn't go any further than showing the gameboy logo.
It can boot only one time. after that I have to take batteries out of the device and wait for some time, so i can start it up once more.
Sorry for my english 
Also It's absolutely possible that I could have messed up something somewhere else.
]]>Didn't help on the AGB-CPU-02. The device stucks loading, doesn't read cartridges.
Direct audio works, though.
]]>warning, There's not much room for more components. I had to break the inside of the case to get the rcas to fit on top. Also had to shorten and bend the prongs a little.
I'll keep that in mind, thanks! I have some really slim 1/8" jacks laying around and I think they'll do fine in the tight space. No bulky RCAs for me. But I'm also gonna leave the original GBA shell untouched and buy an aftermarket one.. They're pretty cheap and then if I mess up it wouldn't be a big deal.
R30 and R31 are basically the same points but on the other side of the PCB. Its just a matter of convenience
That explains a lot! Thanks for clarifying that!
]]>I've read somewhere here on the forums that points R30 and R31 are supposed to be pre-pot that one should solder to for a prosound mod.. Yours and Joes pictures seem more legit!
R30 and R31 are basically the same points but on the other side of the PCB. Its just a matter of convenience
]]>I personally think I'm gonna go for a separate 1/8" output jack and drill a hole in the case because I'm gonna order parts (backlit screen, shell etc.) so that I can do it all at once.
warning, There's not much room for more components. I had to break the inside of the case to get the rcas to fit on top. Also had to shorten and bend the prongs a little.
]]>Also I use a super easy version of the prosound. You just remove 2 components to disconnect the amp from the output jack, and then you solder 2 wires to connect the cpu pins to the output.
If you dont like the prosound you just have to remove the wires and bridge the 2 components that you have removed.
Those are some great protips! Thanks a lot!
I personally think I'm gonna go for a separate 1/8" output jack and drill a hole in the case because I'm gonna order parts (backlit screen, shell etc.) so that I can do it all at once.
I got this image from a friend that he dug up from some old facebook thread where Joe Bleeps shows his GBA prosound mod: 
But I've heard conflicting information about those points, I've read somewhere here on the forums that points R30 and R31 are supposed to be pre-pot that one should solder to for a prosound mod.. Yours and Joes pictures seem more legit!
Edit: Gosh I'm blind, I just saw now that you highlighted the same points as Joe Bleeps.
]]>shitbird wrote:The gba rca mod is worth doing.
Interesting. Is it any different from just soldering a jack between pre-amp in and ground?
oh yeah, i've also found a pinout of gba amplifier
Thats exactly what it's doing. It's not completely flawless, but it helps.
]]>If you dont like the prosound you just have to remove the wires and bridge the 2 components that you have removed.
]]>That capacitor in conjunction with a prosound mod I assume?
The effects are pretty audible without bypassing the amp
Would a 10Volts 1000uf capacitor do the trick or could I go even lower in voltage to avoid having a cap that's too big for the case ?
6.3V is enough
PS: I checked the polarity - left side is positive, right is negative
]]>Regarding the noise. The best results I got were from soldering a 1000uf cap to both sides of C44 -
- its beneath the big cap. I dont remeber the polarity tough
That capacitor in conjunction with a prosound mod I assume?
Would a 10Volts 1000uf capacitor do the trick or could I go even lower in voltage to avoid having a cap that's too big for the case ?
]]>