The other option is to get one of the new IPS lcd kits and then eliminate the built in regulator completely and just use your 5v regulator. Haven't tried that myself yet but I heard that it works fine.

I've gotten to the point of gathering parts for an IPS build using the FunnyPlaying kit so I'm starting to explore this idea a bit more. I have another Pololu on hand and would love to be able to replace the built in regulator altogether with the Pololu but not sure if the FunnyPlaying kit depends on the -19V in any fashion.

I remember reading a blog post or similar somewhere that some of the components may actually use the negative line as a ground but I may be remembering that incorrectly. I've referenced bit 9's board schematic thread, particularly the front of the CPU board that has -19V going to pin 3 on the LCD ribbon cable as well as the LCD board and its schematic. The LCD replacement board for the FunnyPlaying IPS kit doesn't appear to have anything attached to pin 3 (third from the right) but I don't know for sure. To my untrained eye there don't appear to be any components using that line as a ground but if it is the case I wonder if the -19V line and the GND can both be tied to the GND on the Pololu from the CPU board...

can confirm v1 definitely doesn't work with flash carts properly. Which caused me a lot of headaches transplanting power boards in and out of a modded DMG....

Same, I contacted Retrosix about this and I thought that they'd send me two replacements (V2) for two boards I purchased this summer.
However they claimed that some of the V1 boards should work properly and since I had only tried one of them they only sent me one replacement board . I'm gonna contact them again cause I have another DMG build coming up and I don't want to go through the same struggle again that you've also experienced..

Knife Crimes wrote:

I can't think of anything that would connect the issues you report with LSDJ to the replacement power regulator. Maybe a coincidence? Others might know better than me.

It should be added that the CleanPower board outputs 6V instead of 5V if I understood correctly from the previous posts.

I was doing a little reading and came across a Reddit thread where the specifications of the CleanPower were discussed. One iteration of the board is confirmed to output 6v instead of 5v and subsequently cause issues with flash cartridges. Efficiency was also addressed and it's not quite there yet, either.

So it appears the higher voltage of the earlier board can cause issues with flash carts and, therefore, lead to crashes with LSDj. To hear the efficiency of the v2 is still poor is a bit discouraging, perhaps another revision will resolve things.

I can't think of anything that would connect the issues you report with LSDJ to the replacement power regulator. Maybe a coincidence? Others might know better than me.

It does seem possible that backlight LEDs would be able to draw more current from the new source and thus run a little hotter. A higher value current limiting resistor could be an option.

I happen to have the RetroSix board on order at the moment, so I'll endeavour to report back when it arrives.

I did some backtracking on my particular backlight to see if I might've installed it incorrectly and I stumbled upon a video that Nonfinite Electronics uploaded long after I had installed my backlight and he is definitely not soldering the backlight to the same points that I did.

(The video is filmed from far away so it's impossible to see which points he's using, maybe someone knows:
https://youtu.be/YO_Ed6wjwBI?t=344)

I'm using these points but without the resistor, maybe that's where my problem lies..

However I'm pretty certain that Nonfinite stated back when this  backlight was released that there would be no need for any additional resistors because they were built in.

Perhaps that someone with more expertise could clarify all this; I'd be mighty thankful cause I'm desperate to get my DMG up and running without having to wait for additional parts and lengthy shipments etc.

It should be added that the CleanPower board outputs 6V instead of 5V if I understood correctly from the previous posts.

It does seem possible that backlight LEDs would be able to draw more current from the new source and thus run a little hotter. A higher value current limiting resistor could be an option.

I happen to have the RetroSix board on order at the moment, so I'll endeavour to report back when it arrives.

I have an old classic backlight mod from Nonfinite Electronics (V5) that made the old original Nintendo power regulator board overheat so I installed this CleanPower board with hopes that it would fix this issue.
But unfortunately I've run into many issues with my Game Boy since the installation.

I use LSDJ (V4.9.2) on an EMS Flashcart and I can't even press play before I it freezes and I get the "Don't Panic" screen in LSDJ.
Weirdly enough when I have let the DMG idle for a while it manages to play my track, but then I notice that it has glitches that the track didn't have before, it even makes the built in speaker give off a weird humming background noise.

So the heat that was generated from the old power regulator board is gone, but now it seems like a new source of heat has appeared and is coming from just underneath the screen; which I assume is the LEDs that are heating up.

Sooo, I really don't quite know if this is such a great idea for chip musicians.

Maybe someone has a clue of what's going on?

Have you seen this? https://retrosix.co.uk/CleanPower-Regul … p141361110

Full disclosure: I did not read your post

I've been looking for this type of product for a good while because of my favourite DMG that's overheating with its' backlit screen mod, thanks for sharing.
Too bad the shipment cost is insane from that site, and I'm in the same continent as the seller.
Edit: Also found that the seller was selling from ebay where the shipping cost was halv so I bought a board there. Thank you.

Doctor Octoroc wrote:

So quick update, I tried turning it on today and turning the color/brightness wheel to see if there was any response and it was too tight (screws were a tad overturned) so I went to loosen them up and once I released some pressure from the two screws closest to the wheel, the display came on for a few seconds. I got all excited but then I lost it again and can't get it back no matter what I do.

It sounds like there may be a broken solder joint on the wheel, or near it. Can you look at the solder points very closely? Both on the wheel and the other component on the opposite side of the board?

I took it apart yesterday and looked all all the caps and joints and didn't spot anything out of the ordinary but that sounds like the most likely culprit since it managed to come back briefly. The easiest fix may honestly just be replacing the main board and redoing the pro sound mod, if I can't locate the precise point of failure. For all I know, it could be one of the pins connecting the cart connector to the main board which I don't think is an easy fix.

So quick update, I tried turning it on today and turning the color/brightness wheel to see if there was any response and it was too tight (screws were a tad overturned) so I went to loosen them up and once I released some pressure from the two screws closest to the wheel, the display came on for a few seconds. I got all excited but then I lost it again and can't get it back no matter what I do.

It sounds like there may be a broken solder joint on the wheel, or near it. Can you look at the solder points very closely? Both on the wheel and the other component on the opposite side of the board?