@Krubbz: I decided to not do that all together, because I didn't have an ON-ON switch. I only have ON-OFF switches. But, I have an untested theory that maybe the crystal oscillators need to have electricity going through them in the right direction for them to work.

These kind of crystals aren't polarized, so that's not the problem.

Might have been answered already but:

Either wire can go to the switch. Generally the anode, though.

@kineticturtle: I keep the iron tinned but it just doesn't seem to react as well as in videos I've seen, so I have been applying too much heat, it seems. I hope this is fixable without getting a new Game Boy.

@Krubbz: I decided to not do that all together, because I didn't have an ON-ON switch. I only have ON-OFF switches. But, I have an untested theory that maybe the crystal oscillators need to have electricity going through them in the right direction for them to work. Of course, I know nothing about electronics, but yeah.

If anyone can further help me, I do highly appreciate it Hopefully I can get this working properly once and for all. It's slightly discouraging!...

Speculation is relevant here though, as I've seen and heard a lot of broken game boys, and this is a new symptom to me. Maybe nitro or rolf or someone has input to offer.

@kineticturtle: Yep, and, um, the iron is 30w, and sometimes I hold it there for a bit... It makes sense that this could have damaged the parts around there at the 3 points you're required to solder to for the prosound mod. I held it there for a bit on other hard-to-solder parts too, but that didn't seem to affect anything...

from http://lowgain-audio.com/GBclassicmod.htm - probably also helpful to you

Signal is already headphone-amped at that point though.

Regardless, I disagree with your assertion that the pitch mod works. If these weird glitchy sound things only happen when the pitch mod is on, then clearly something is wrong with the pitch mod.

Further prosound info: I'm pretty sure there are no solder bridges. You see, the reason I think I may have accidentally severed one of the leads is because I was scraping around with a small sharp blade to get rid of any potential solder bridges... Also, I guess first thing is to get some sound working, but with the left earphone lead, I was thinking it may be easy to just solder an extension wire from that point to another part of the board. As I said before, the copper gets in the way so its hard to see where the leads go, but one way I could find out is if I knew what each of the 4 wires going down to the stock audio jack individually do. Does anyone know? This way I can trace them back on the board. Of course, I don't know if this would work but it's worth a try until I do know.

The best advice I can offer you right now is to do these mods one at a time, making sure you have one working solidly before you dig into the next.

As a side sort of off topic thing, when I did the prosound mod I think I accidentally severed one of the leads at the location you solder the wires to. The left headphone doesn't work at all on the new jack, and on the old jack the left headphone's output is significantly decreased. It seems really hard to get in there to fix the potentially severed wiring so I was thinking it might be easier to just solder an extra wire from where you solder the left headphone wire to, to an easier place on the board. It's hard to see where the lead gos though, because the copper plate covers it. Any ideas?

Second, you have the two chips in parallel. I regret ever using that word in this thread.
However you install the half-clock, the switch needs to be able to select between the two crystals. This will involve desoldering at least half of the existig crystal.

from here: http://gieskes.nl/underclocking_or_over … _tutorial/ which will probably be helpful.

As for the speed pot not working, I recently transferred a getlofi modded game boy into a new case, and it had that symptom, but it turned out to be that the ground wire had become disconnected. I would check your solder joints.