I knew the hotter the better but I didn't think bowling would work.

I wouldn't recommend it. I went bowling when I was dying a shell and it was completely warped by the time I came back.

...but really, the hotter the water, the better. You just have to find the right temperature. Boiling is definitely too hot, and shells can warp before the water boils.

the recipe varies but is essentially a mix of HOT water (the hotter the better/quicker the dye takes), acetone, and the dye.  rit dye comes in liquid and powder, if you use the powder make sure to wear a mask.  its very fine, and you'll breath it in and have colored snot for a day or so.  i did black and it really freaked me out until i realized what had happened.

also, acetone is a carcinogen.  a mask is called for anyways.  lastly, rit dye will stain most anything!  its a cruel bugger.  it can stain a sink also, especially when the misture has acetone in it (and if your sink has a porous surface, you've just colored your sink).

this google search should help out, the recipe and approach is basically the same: https://www.google.com/search?q=rit+ace … =firefox-a

edit: i forgot another important thing....

acetone lowers the boiling temperature of water.  so, if your water is near boiling, pouring in the acetone will cause it to boil a little until the energy works itself out.  this can cause a little splashing.  so, keep this in mind and be aware of the surrounding area so you don't end up with splashed spots of color on teh counter-top. 

doing this all outside is preferable, on a hot day if possible.  it helps the mixture keep from cooling so rapidly.

and, very very lastly i think, acetone will not melt or eat at aluminum, the cheap baking pans in the grocery store are perfect for this.  do NOT use a plastic bowl/vessel, the mixture will eat through it (like it does any plastic).  well, not 'eat through it', more or less degrade the molecular structure of the plastic...

Hmm, I haven't tried it yet but I read up on Rit dye a couple days ago and all that was said for the mixture was the dye and hot water. What exactly is the acetone for?

From my understanding of it, there's a very thin clear coat on DMGs and the acetone softens it up and allows the dye to actually take hold to the plastic. Something around those lines.

Vex wrote:

Did you put the lettering on before you dyed the case?

After, The dying process probably would have removed the decal.

That's true didn't think of that. Sooo Uhmm, what would it cost to get you to do a case like your orange one? Or to get your recipe you use to dye it.

Apeshit wrote:

That's exactly what I had done, but there will always be an outline.

Did you put the lettering on before you dyed the case?

After, The dying process probably would have removed the decal.

Vex wrote:

The issue with the clear outline. Couldn't you just use a crafting knife after you lay it down to cut very carefully around the lettering as to get rid of clear blocky out line? Then maybe run a clear coat of spray paint over it so it's actually painted into the gameboy and not just a sticker or series of small sticker that can peel off over time

That's exactly what I had done, but there will always be an outline.

Did you put the lettering on before you dyed the case?

The issue with the clear outline. Couldn't you just use a crafting knife after you lay it down to cut very carefully around the lettering as to get rid of clear blocky out line? Then maybe run a clear coat of spray paint over it so it's actually painted into the gameboy and not just a sticker or series of small sticker that can peel off over time

That's exactly what I had done, but there will always be an outline.

Actually i have a question about this. The issue with the clear outline. Couldn't you just use a crafting knife after you lay it down to cut very carefully around the lettering as to get rid of clear blocky out line? Then maybe run a clear coat of spray paint over it so it's actually painted into the gameboy and not just a sticker or series of small sticker that can peel off over time? Seems logical to do this on a clear boy, maybe not any other DMG model though if you like to keep the texture of the gameboy in tact. But if you are going to custom paint the whole case anyway I'd suggest a clear coat just to help prevent scratching and paint peeling or chipping issues. So maybe it'd work on both clear and normal DMGs depending on what look and feel you are going for.

Its probably what I would do in the situation. Anyway, so I'll post my designs in a bit I have a few running designs and some decent means of getting them started (as clearboy shells are low atm, unless kitsch is getting some soon?) but as soon as my paycheck comes in I'm going to get started getting some of this rolling cus I got some sweet heck of designs to roll out.
(spoilers-Flynnboy, Rinzlerboy, 501stBoy, shocktrooperboy)

I've done it with decals, but you get a faint clear outline.

Actually i have a question about this. The issue with the clear outline. Couldn't you just use a crafting knife after you lay it down to cut very carefully around the lettering as to get rid of clear blocky out line? Then maybe run a clear coat of spray paint over it so it's actually painted into the gameboy and not just a sticker or series of small sticker that can peel off over time? Seems logical to do this on a clear boy, maybe not any other DMG model though if you like to keep the texture of the gameboy in tact. But if you are going to custom paint the whole case anyway I'd suggest a clear coat just to help prevent scratching and paint peeling or chipping issues. So maybe it'd work on both clear and normal DMGs depending on what look and feel you are going for.