I didn't try opening the box because I didn't know it would open so easily.

1. To pull the rubber sleeve off the housing I inserted a small tipped standard screwdriver into the two holes in the housing. There are two fins that you can then push inward to flatten them out. Afterwards the housing comes off with little to no effort. Then you can push them back out when you pull the black plastic pin housing off.

2. On the DMG connector for removing the black plastic piece that houses the pins I actually used a small paperclip that I shoved in through the empty pin holes and used that to pull the whole section out. If you're opening the GBC connector I was able to pull it off with my fingers haha.

3. Since pins 1 and 2 get shorted on the GBC connector after swapping pins in the DMG connector, I pulled out pin 2 on the GBC connector and cut it. Then wrapped the two different wires together on the other end and soldered them both to the PS/2 connector.

I don't know how much easier any of these steps make it, but that's what worked best for me if anyone else was interested.

I'm really interested in the section about how to disassemble the DMG but it's not done yet. Does anyone here know a good photo or video guide, especially regarding the best way to dis- and reconnect the ribbon cable? I've read that's the trickiest part and I want to be prepared when my tri-wing arrives.

Hi, I  created a guide years ago of how to install a backlight in a DMG. However, please bear on mind the guide was created years ago(grammar is probably  horrid as well) and ported to this forum. If you find this guide useful then that's Awesome. Below is the link:

http://chipmusic.org/forums/topic/282/b … ight-kits/

EDIT:The screen does kinda flicker when switch the power

Ehhh, that's not really something I could say. There are a million things that could be wrong inside of the Game Boy that would prevent it from turning on.

That said, you want to remove as much corrosion as you practically can. Corrosion is a chemical reaction with the metal and substances in the environment. The products of the corrosion need to be removed to limit the continuation of that chemical reaction. For example, rust is a form of corrosion; to stop something from rusting, you want to remove as much of the rust as you can, and then remove the item from the rust-inducing environment.

› Show Spoiler

‹ Hide Spoiler

Ok, in my analogy, you'd also want to treat the formerly rusting object with some kind of protective coating. Typical choices would be oil-based paint that seals out environmental elements which could promote rust, or another kind of plating or electrochemical treatment, such as chrome-plating or galvanizing. Doing something analogous is lot harder with electronics; my analogy isn't perfect.

Thanks

That said, you want to remove as much corrosion as you practically can. Corrosion is a chemical reaction with the metal and substances in the environment. The products of the corrosion need to be removed to limit the continuation of that chemical reaction. For example, rust is a form of corrosion; to stop something from rusting, you want to remove as much of the rust as you can, and then remove the item from the rust-inducing environment.

Take the terminals out and put them in a small cup of vinegar. There are spring pins on the side of the battery case that is on the inside of the Game Boy that you have to depress to slide them out. If the corrosion isn't too bad, you can just get a cotton swab soaked in vinegar and apply it to the corrosion lightly.

THANKS
I had tried scrubbing the unit from the outside with a toothbrush and vinagar. Got alot of it off. Theres still some there and the unit still will not power on. I havnt taken it apart yet but Im about to run to radio shack really quick and grab a triwing so I can open this thing. Do you think the lil corrosion left over is causing the problem or do I have internal issues? Ive yet to peek at the inside. But a more through clean is on the way once I grab a tri-wing.