For a working front PCB with a good screen, $1 was worth it.

The headphone jack was also tampered with. Maybe someone used the parts for another.

This gameboy could be way more broken than that and still be a good deal for $1!

Really makes me wonder what someone was trying to do in there though.

No I got it. I was asking if you meant each resistor for each channel or each side of a single resistor. I looked and it became obvious what you meant. Going to try when I get off work.

Did you understand what I meant by the resistors? Do you need an image explaining what I mean?

Killedatschool is just an internet alias I've used since 95 or 96. Sucks that a few years later school shootings became a "thing".

Killed At School? Man I hope you're writing thrash.

What? Where?

Lead free solder? As nitro said, scrape off the old flux/gunk and the heat will flow more easily to the pre-existing solder points, melting them.
Pretty sure you can get a replacement pot from radioshack if you wanted to.

The modern man must hustle.

This is good to know! I'm goin to try the resistors first.

Yes, the iron is a bit shitty. A small piece of the tip broke off a few weeks ago but now seems to heat faster.

You can get one from nonfinites shop for like 5 dollars.

One resistor for each channel?

Dirty. The solder probably rolls away because because of all that gunk. (And/or your solder or soldering iron suck.) You might be able to clean that up. But regardless, a pre-pot prosound is still viable. Just follow the signals back a tiny bit. you'll find that the pre-pot signal points connect to two resistors next to each other, one for each channel. If you can solder to any point there you might be good to go. You could also try on the top side, by soldering the signal wires directly to the resistors. If you do this, and nothing is shorted  out on the dirty side, you should have a working prosound.

Swap in another rear pcb.