Hi thanks for the link, cant see the Retrobright bit at first glance, I've been on the mixtures website I was just wondering whether there were any simple alternate methods

*Edit* I found the Retrobright section sorry :') Search tools are bloomin' useful

For the original retrobright guide, visit amibay.org

That is the home of the guy who "created" it. It will have the most comprehensive guide and FAQs.

Whilst in my wait to grab hold of a multimeter I've received another 2 DMG's in the post, both are pretty yellowed,

I've looked at 'retrobrighting' them but the internet has tons of methods, I know there's been a post about this on here before so sorry for necrobumping it almost but I was wondering whether anyone had tried any different methods? Eg. 1 ingredient jobs or whether anyone (preferably in the UK for the items) has used the traditional mix. I've been looking at http://stiggyblog.wordpress.com/2011/04 … ter-cases/ this method as it seems the most simple and looks to offer pretty good results.

If anyone could offer some tips/comments about that it would be great

Thanks for the help you've already given!

Continuity from from both sides of that corroded trace and voltage levels where the wires from it meet the main board.

I don't but I can probably get hold of one, what should I be checking?

It could defjnately be the problem. But I cannot be 100% sure. Do you have a multi meter?

Could that be the problem?

I didn't see anything in the last three photos, but the first shows some corrosion all the way across one of the main traces.

Only real 'corrosion' I can spot is the black marks on the 1st and 2nd picture, did the heat check Thursday and it didn't get hot at all, I think I'll have to wait till I have another one to swap the board and see.

Ah okay, I'll grab a picture as soon as I can Thanks

The power regulator board is the little circuit board that hangs off to the side by itself right?.  Post some pictures of that.  Maybe someone can diagnose the problem when seeing that.

I was going to say the battery contacts or regulator board. Try new batteries of course.

Sounds like the voltage regulator board. Check the 4 wires and make sure all the solder joints are clean and that there are no bridges. Also look the at board itself and see if there is any corrosion. This board corrodes quicker for some reason. Also does this board get hot any where after it's powered on for at least 15 minutes? If not any of this you could try replacing the board to see if that will fix it.

Just tried it with headphones, get a audible click and noise, no plink.

Dont have a multimeter that I know of but I could get hold of one quite easily.

Have you tried putting in a pair of heaphones to the headphone jack? (Just exhausting possibilities.) Try disconnecting the LCD board and then turning the thing on with headphones connected.
WARNING: never connect or disconnect the LCD board while the Gameboy is powered on. This may damage the CPU in such a way that the left and B buttons stop working permanently!

The problem may be related to the power converter. The unregulated power from the batteries is connected through the power switch and then only to two places, the power converter, and the power LED. The fact that the LED lights up really only means that the power switch is working.

Do you have a multimeter?