Now i have tested the White ribbon, it's good. Tried push the 2 black ribbon cables and No change to the picture

Removed and cleaned the contrast wheel in alcohol, No change, maybe it could be a cap issue? Because if i have the console turned on for a longer period it does take longer for the static noise to go away when i turn it off.

Hi, thx for the reply, i have tried to clean the contrast wheel with rubbing alcohol, but No difference, i messured the voltage from the contrast wheel and it changed values. Also like the thread starter the screen get the strange picture when i turn off with the static thing. Can you messure with a multimeter if for example the white ribbon cable is broken?

Yes - It could be the white ribbon cable that connects the two boards, the brown ribbon cable under the LCD, or possibly a broken contrast wheel. You can try pouring a bit of rubbing alcohol into the contrast wheel and turning it rapidly to see if it fixes the issue, but it is most likely the ribbon cables.

I took the lcd board from a working gameboy and plugged it into my faulty unit. And then it worked. So the problem seems to be in the lcd board?

This is the power board:
https://gbhwdb.gekkio.fi/static/dmg/GM1 … d_back.jpg

Did you say the LCD "does" or doesn't" work on another gameboy.

Hi!

Where is the power regulator board located? That could not be my issue? I havet tried replacing the whole board with the screen attached from, with an working gameboy screen board and the screen works perfekt then...

I recently encountered a DMG in this state, and I replaced the power regulator board from a different DMG and it fixed the issue.

I have the same problem, screen black and slight change with contrast wheel, did you guys fix it? Tried everything, removed and reapplied new solder paste and the ground spots. Also went over every solder bit inside, remelted it. Did someone of you fix it? How do i know IF the LCD cable is bad?

I had a look at my LCD ribbon cable again and sure enough 2 pins towards the top had their connections broken. I re-soldered them and check the continuity but still no luck. I have a variety of boards with the same problem though and the others don't show signs of wear near the ribbon cable. I'll try and post some images later. Hopefully there's something I can do; it would be nice to know what to trouble shoot with this issue.

Reiterating on what I said above, this issue is almost always caused by the white ribbon cable that connects the two boards breaking internally (you won't see a physical tear), or the brown ribbon cable under the LCD detaching.

While replacing caps is good practice, it shouldn't be the first step when troubleshooting, since the caps in DMGs are pretty good.

I'm having similar issues. Many years ago, I was new to soldering and whatnot and got my screen stuck in this state while trying to reconnect a front-light mod. I'm still uncertain how I got it there because the LCD ribbon cable is intact. Out of desperation I bought a capacitor kit which I did about 2 years ago with no success. I recently brought it back out to see what could be done.

I've followed the advice in this thread thus far but it hasn't resolved my issue. I'll list what I've done:

LCD board modifications:
* Installed new capacitor kit (C1, C2, C3, C6, C7, C8, C9, C10)
* Replaced 100 ohm and 1k ohm resistors
* Replaced 47uF capacitor C4 (not part of the kit)
* Transplanted tested-working potentiometer
* Resoldered the grounding contacts

What's not replaced:
* Diode D1
* Capacitor C5
* DA1, DA2, DA3, DA4 (Rectifier diodes if my research is correct)

Way way back I bought a lot of 5 LCD boards that were supposedly dead off eBay. Only 1 was damaged beyond repair so I do have some spare parts I can salvage if that's of help.

To clarify, you put pressure on the soldered connections, underneath (not below) the LCD?

edit: I really need to read the thread before replying.

What did you reflow to get this working exactly?

So some suggested to resolver the ground clips and bend them a bit.
I saw a YouTube Video on this, the guy in the video however just bend the clips and pressed the LCD board on to the power board, I had tried and failed with that initially.
BUT!
After the suggestion I thought to give it a try: Removing that mucky solder and reapplying fresh one did the trick! The screen works!

Even though working, its rather faint and flickers. I resoldered the connections of the wheel, and freshened up a few other solder blobs that seemed dull, to no avail.
I might try a complete recap those days.
Thanks for the suggestions and I hope some day this info might help someone else

Some pictures...
Close up of the "noise" I mentioned earlier, note that this is static and not moving or sth.
This appears in a smooth manner (takes like 2-3 seconds) after turning the contrast wheel all the way down.
Turning the wheel all the way up, makes the noise disappear and the screen shows evenly black.

The rear side of the LCD Board. I replaced 3 caps (C1, C2, C3) with caps from a scrape board, as well as the contrast wheel, assuming it would help, but nothing changed. The screen shows the same behavior when C3 is not soldered in at all (I wanted to see a changed behavior if a cap is missing).
The Jumper J2 had some corrosion form this side of the board, close to the left hole, you can still see some. I cleaned it with vinegar essence as good
as I could.

Mh, Is there any way to verify/falsify (measure sth. With the multimeter, visual indicators) this kind of damage? Sth to look for?
Can you also tell me about the remedy you wrote about?

edit:
applying pressure (brown ribbon), gently wiggling around (white ribbon) brings not change at all, not even slight hints.