how many carts are you needing batteries in? I had to fix my metroid 2 cart and have extra tabbed batteries on hand now

Trouble from 3 years ago lol...

Bumping to say that I just got the battery in my nano 1.2 cart changed out at a local store called Batteries Plus. Just $9.02 installed, pretty sweet. Maybe there's a similar store near you if you're still having trouble.

and here i was thinking "man it's a shame nitro never finished making that flasher" :v

Aha!  That's what I was trying to remember, thanks.

(the combined pulse channels, i mean)

1.3 is pretty close to 1.5/1.6.3 as far as layout, etc... 1.0-1.2 have the different song screen/3 channels/etc

Cool, was wondering if this was one of the versions that had the different song editor or channel layout but I guess that was 1.3?

EDIT: nope, 1.3 wasn't what I was thinking of either, must have just made it all up

Whoa! Time flies like an arrow! I didn't even notice the age of the thread.

Bud: I'm interested and I'll contact you in a PM.

roughly the same as 1.2, but only one custom waveform instead of 16 for the s channel, if i remember correctly

Necrobump?

Awesome - drop me a line if/when you need a 1.2 to borrow.

Bud of all Melvins: I'm making my own flasher, which you will hopefully be able to buy at some point. I want to support as many different cartridges as possible, and having physical access to them helps ensure that I'm doing things correctly.

nitro2k01 - FWIW - I was always able to back up and restore nanoloop 1.2 RAM with XChanger and gbt16.exe.  The catch was I had to grab each bank separately with the -bs xx switch,  I was also able to get a ROM .GB image, but, of course, that file on an EMS cart wouldn't be able to save RAM properly.  I had a very detailed description of all this on the original nanoloop forum if archives exist anywhere of that.  Would have been late 2001, early 2002 I'm guessing.

Re: canopy type battery holder. I don't see this as feasible. You are relying on the PCB layout to provide the cathode (negative battery terminal) connection. On the yellow cartridge, the cathode is to the left of the battery. You could perhaps solve this by adding a little bit of wire soldered to the pad which goes under the battery, but I don't think you can guarantee good contact this way. You also need to attach the other  side of the "canopy" for mechanical stability. This is farily easy to do if you scrape off some of the solder mask from the ground plane above the battery, and also disconnect said section of the ground plane from the rest of the ground. (Just a few cuts with a knife.)

However, that seems a bit hackish, and might create problems with data loss because the connectioncomes loose. The way I would probably solve this is with a 180° tabbed battery. Solder the anode (positive battery terminal) to the right place. Bend the other tab and fold it around the top edge of the PCB. Solder a jumper wire between the tab and the ground pad on the board. This would require some thought when bending the tab, but should otherwise be the best solution.
...
Though again, thinking about it. that might not work because the top piece of the cartridge will occupy that space momentarily when you slide the cartridge shut.

Anyway, I think I would recommend a tabbed battery which is soldered into place rather than the canopy version, for mechanical stability reasons. This should still extend their life by ~10 years, so it shouldn't be that bad.

Oh and of course, maybe I don't even need to add that I would be interested in playing with these cartridges hands-on for some research. (Such as figuring out how to back them up and flashing new software to them.)

What were some features of 1.1 that are different from now?  I can't seem to find the manual anywhere online to get a description.