These kind of crystals aren't polarized, so that's not the problem.

Might have been answered already but:

Either wire can go to the switch. Generally the anode, though.

Everything is wired up. Everything works except sound... Which is the main reason I have for modding it. I want to compose music.

@kineticturtle: I keep the iron tinned but it just doesn't seem to react as well as in videos I've seen, so I have been applying too much heat, it seems. I hope this is fixable without getting a new Game Boy.

@Krubbz: I decided to not do that all together, because I didn't have an ON-ON switch. I only have ON-OFF switches. But, I have an untested theory that maybe the crystal oscillators need to have electricity going through them in the right direction for them to work. Of course, I know nothing about electronics, but yeah.

If anyone can further help me, I do highly appreciate it Hopefully I can get this working properly once and for all. It's slightly discouraging!...

Don't give up, cuz I'd like to learn how to switch between crystals as well!

Are you keeping your iron tinned? I'm just speculating without actually seeing you work, but if the iron isn't tinned and it isn't reacting quickly enough, you could be putting a lot of extra heat into the CPU, that could potentially do this.

Speculation is relevant here though, as I've seen and heard a lot of broken game boys, and this is a new symptom to me. Maybe nitro or rolf or someone has input to offer.

@2PLAYER: The only thing is there appears to be (not visually, I mean audio-wise) lots of static when it's turned all the way downwards (as in turning it towards you if you were to hold it normally. I can't remember if this is volume up or down).

@kineticturtle: Yep, and, um, the iron is 30w, and sometimes I hold it there for a bit... It makes sense that this could have damaged the parts around there at the 3 points you're required to solder to for the prosound mod. I held it there for a bit on other hard-to-solder parts too, but that didn't seem to affect anything...

Screen looks normal when the gameboy is running at normal speed? How much heat have you been applying?

Does anything happen (sound/volume wise) when you turn the volume knob?

Everything is wired up. Still no sound. sigh. Could I have destroyed only the sound part by static?

Thanks again, and, no no, the glitchy sound surges happen REGARDLESS of weather the pitch mod is on or not. It's just, when the pitch mod IS on, the frequency of the general static changes. So it's all static either way, otherwise it would be obvious that it is the pitch mod at fault. So I'm still kinda lost with that... (Unless you still disagree? I'll try desoldering the 3 points on the board and see if there's sound.)

From the side with the white wire, they are switch normal, ground, right output, left output.

from http://lowgain-audio.com/GBclassicmod.htm - probably also helpful to you

Signal is already headphone-amped at that point though.

Regardless, I disagree with your assertion that the pitch mod works. If these weird glitchy sound things only happen when the pitch mod is on, then clearly something is wrong with the pitch mod.

I've decided to just not add the Half Speed crystal oscillator (in the near future anyway) because I don't have a changeover switch right now and it was the least needed/wanted feature (since I have a potentiometer). So anyway, The potentiometer switch functions correctly now. BUT. Now there is NO SOUND whatsoever! All I get is static that changes pitch with the potentiometer, and where there's meant to be sound on a game, I get infrequent little static surges through the earphones. What did I do? What could be the problem? Aside from this, all that's left is fixing the prosound mod, and then soldering the 2 wires coming out of the previously installed backlight. I guess it does pay off to have some half finished mods

Further prosound info: I'm pretty sure there are no solder bridges. You see, the reason I think I may have accidentally severed one of the leads is because I was scraping around with a small sharp blade to get rid of any potential solder bridges... Also, I guess first thing is to get some sound working, but with the left earphone lead, I was thinking it may be easy to just solder an extension wire from that point to another part of the board. As I said before, the copper gets in the way so its hard to see where the leads go, but one way I could find out is if I knew what each of the 4 wires going down to the stock audio jack individually do. Does anyone know? This way I can trace them back on the board. Of course, I don't know if this would work but it's worth a try until I do know.

Your description of the prosound problem could be a short caused by a solder bridge. I'm not sure what you could have severed, as you have to put in some significant effort to cut traces on the PCBs. It would be hard to say for sure without seeing it in person, but some clear photos of what you've got going on so far might be helpful.

The best advice I can offer you right now is to do these mods one at a time, making sure you have one working solidly before you dig into the next.

Oh, thanks. It looks like I'm going to rewire the Half Clock crystal oscillator first then, because as far as I can tell, my ground wire for the potentiometer is wired solid and correctly. Then I'll see what problems I'm having and act accordingly or ask here.

As a side sort of off topic thing, when I did the prosound mod I think I accidentally severed one of the leads at the location you solder the wires to. The left headphone doesn't work at all on the new jack, and on the old jack the left headphone's output is significantly decreased. It seems really hard to get in there to fix the potentially severed wiring so I was thinking it might be easier to just solder an extra wire from where you solder the left headphone wire to, to an easier place on the board. It's hard to see where the lead gos though, because the copper plate covers it. Any ideas?

There's a couple problems with what you've got going on at the moment.  For one, the half-speed crystal is entirely dependent on the getlofi board - you would never be able to half clock without engaging the variable clock circuit.

Second, you have the two chips in parallel. I regret ever using that word in this thread.
However you install the half-clock, the switch needs to be able to select between the two crystals. This will involve desoldering at least half of the existig crystal.

from here: http://gieskes.nl/underclocking_or_over … _tutorial/ which will probably be helpful.

As for the speed pot not working, I recently transferred a getlofi modded game boy into a new case, and it had that symptom, but it turned out to be that the ground wire had become disconnected. I would check your solder joints.

They are indeed! I was originally aiming for a black/purple blend, or purple/dark purple blend, but this one is a tad darker than I thought it would be anyway so all is well