http://www.raphnet.net/electronique/nes … php#supply
this is an old link but this fellow says the dc regulator in the nes is good up to 12V that you can even disregard the polarity. I say its time to bust out the multimeter and get to the bottom of it.

i did some more research.
according to multiple forum posts (i know, 100% reliable, right? ;D)
that NES, SNES, and SEGA genesis all use a 9v psu. nes/snes are identical,
and the only difference between them and sega is the adapter that
connects to the console (a little bigger diameter). that is for the genesis 1.
the 2 (and maybe 3) has a different style connector.

Hmm, my snes said 10v on it, maybe different revisions

just googled it, and they seems like the same volts to me.
i've been using them that way since i was a kid.

NES:
Input: AC 120V 60Hz
Output: DC 9V 850mA, made for use in North America (US, Canada, etc.). 

SNES:
input: AC 120V 60Hz
output: DC 9V 850mA, made for use in North America (US, Canada, etc.).

Snes and nes use different voltages from what I remember... think its 10v for snes

thanx for the good suggestions. fuse is a real possibility.

as for the psu, i use the same one for my NES + SNES. i just switch the cable. and my SNES is still working like a champ.

it could be the voltage regulator has gone bad, try replacing that - or (and I'm not sure as only have original NES + Famicom's here) it could be an internal fuse has blown. before you do anything tho = try an alternative correctly rated PSU on it just in case thats where your problem is. hope that helps! \o_

thanx for the info kitsch. i now see the drop down list you can only order them for the DMG. i just thought the instructions were not up yet. sorry for the confusion.

yeah, it happened all at once. it literally worked the day before perfectly. then nothing the next day. i think im going to take it appart this weekend and see what's what inside. perhaps i can gain some insite that way. [ though that didnt work w/ the KP3 ]

i havent checked yet, but i think the top loader uses a security bit not regular screw like the NES1 did.
if so, it that the 4.5mm bit on your site kitsch?

thanx

i don't have a cap kit for the nes ready yet, sorry.  haven't even started doing them for top loaders...

caps generally have a ~15 year life span.  not sure when that unit was made exactly...

i sort of doubt its that though.  if a failing cap actually affected the console in a noticeable way, it'd be a gradual change i'd think (caps leak, but slowly most the time).  if it was a sudden change, and it was the fault of a cap, it could has exploded but i think you'd know that.  but, still, even if the cap completely failed, the likeliness of it killing the system is slight unless it failed in a way it shorted out the console...

not really sure about this one.  shake the console, do you hear anything loose?

hey,
i have an NES toploaded. i got it on ebay about 7 years ago.
it was almost new then. and it's been a champion all these years.
it worked first time, every time.

just last week, i popped in a game and hit the power button and
nothing happened. i checked the cables, i checked the tv, everything
was ok. i didnt notice turning the console on and off i was getting
*something* on the tv, but just blackness.

any idea's about what might be wrong?
replacing the 72 pin connector is out since it's a top loader
and it's not angled 90 degrees. i was thinking it might be
a capacitor issue and i know kitsch sells them.
but idk if that sounds like it might be the issue. also,
i have never done a capacitor replacement... is it tough?
im pretty ok at soldering.

thanx in advance.