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		<title><![CDATA[ChipMusic.org - Stubborn DMG Lines]]></title>
		<link>https://chipmusic.org/forums/topic/8576/stubborn-dmg-lines/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[The most recent posts in Stubborn DMG Lines.]]></description>
		<lastBuildDate>Thu, 27 Sep 2012 05:36:52 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: Stubborn DMG Lines]]></title>
			<link>https://chipmusic.org/forums/post/134800/#p134800</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<b><i>Toastypinecone says:</i></b><p>I actually got the whole screen to work, after pushing on the back/front of the brown ribbon AS WELL as the connection point on the actual screen with a combination of the iron, a pencil tip, and a pencil eraser. It was EXTREMELY stubborn, I burned my finger something awful, and the entire process probably took around 4-5 hours but I couldn&#039;t be happier :&#039;D</p>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Thu, 27 Sep 2012 05:36:52 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://chipmusic.org/forums/post/134800/#p134800</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: Stubborn DMG Lines]]></title>
			<link>https://chipmusic.org/forums/post/134707/#p134707</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<b><i>thursdaycustoms says:</i></b><p>You really want to use a dab of solder to even the heat on the ribbon cable. I&#039;ve found this to help a lot. You will want to put something over the LCD though so nothing spatters and melts the polarizer on the front.<br />But sometimes the glue is just so dried up it won&#039;t remelt and reattach and if you heat it up for too long you will actually bake the glue and then there&#039;s nothing you can do.</p>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Wed, 26 Sep 2012 14:48:05 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://chipmusic.org/forums/post/134707/#p134707</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: Stubborn DMG Lines]]></title>
			<link>https://chipmusic.org/forums/post/134653/#p134653</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<b><i>3ndymion says:</i></b><p>Sometimes, the lines won&#039;t go away no matter what.&nbsp; Try this: if you have a heat gun, make some kind of small nozzle for the air to go through, maybe using aluminum foil wrapped into a funnel???&nbsp; Try to focus the hot air into a small area, that way you can concentrate on the area that needs to be worked on.&nbsp; Also, work on that cable up right by the screen, &amp; down away from the screen as well, moving back &amp; forth.&nbsp; You may get lucky.&nbsp; I&#039;ve found hot air to do this much better than a soldering iron.</p>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Wed, 26 Sep 2012 03:44:02 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://chipmusic.org/forums/post/134653/#p134653</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: Stubborn DMG Lines]]></title>
			<link>https://chipmusic.org/forums/post/134636/#p134636</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<b><i>Alley Beach says:</i></b><p>its happened to me...</p>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Wed, 26 Sep 2012 01:34:29 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://chipmusic.org/forums/post/134636/#p134636</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: Stubborn DMG Lines]]></title>
			<link>https://chipmusic.org/forums/post/134634/#p134634</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<b><i>Toastypinecone says:</i></b><p>To answer your question: Not long. I got it down to 2 lines now, but they&#039;re quite stubborn! D:&lt; One of the things i found useful was pushing with the eraser side of a pencil on the flatwire, as well as pushing from the back of the lcd-flatwire meet point.</p>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Wed, 26 Sep 2012 01:17:22 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://chipmusic.org/forums/post/134634/#p134634</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: Stubborn DMG Lines]]></title>
			<link>https://chipmusic.org/forums/post/134627/#p134627</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<b><i>Telerophon says:</i></b><p>How long were you messing with it by trying to heat the cable?</p><p>I&#039;ve done this three times and managed to get all of the lines back every time, but it can take a long time… I think it took up to half an hour straight for some of my front PCBs. I&#039;ve recovered screens that were half-gone before.</p><p>If you use the right heat, keep the iron moving, and make sure to keep your iron tip coated in a fresh tin (both for efficient heat transfer and for the sake of not ruining the tip), I think there&#039;s a good chance you&#039;ll be able to get the back with enough elbow grease.</p>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Wed, 26 Sep 2012 00:37:14 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://chipmusic.org/forums/post/134627/#p134627</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Re: Stubborn DMG Lines]]></title>
			<link>https://chipmusic.org/forums/post/134623/#p134623</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<b><i>Timbob says:</i></b><p>sometimes lines are just broken... maybe somewhere in the brown flatcable.</p><p>if the soldering iron or heatgun won&#039;t work, maybe you&#039;re just out of luck?<br />Unless someone has some more tips...</p>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Wed, 26 Sep 2012 00:22:01 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://chipmusic.org/forums/post/134623/#p134623</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Stubborn DMG Lines]]></title>
			<link>https://chipmusic.org/forums/post/134620/#p134620</link>
			<description><![CDATA[<b><i>Toastypinecone says:</i></b><p>So I attempted to repair quite a few lines (10-14ish?) on a DMG using the classic heat gun/soldering iron method, and it seems that every other vertical line in the particular group doesn&#039;t want to display, no matter how many times I try to heat it. I tried removing the screws that connect the brown cable to the actual gameboy, and this helped a little... Any thoughts?</p>]]></description>
			<pubDate>Wed, 26 Sep 2012 00:06:36 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid>https://chipmusic.org/forums/post/134620/#p134620</guid>
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