As the above post mentioned, there are two layers you need to peel off from the screen first before continuing. If you see the screen becomes transparent you are good. Otherwise you need to go deeper. Also how you place the polarized film determine it's normal or inverted, i.e. rotating 90 degree.

One of my thoughts was perhaps that's the way the pixels are supposed to look, and I'm just ignorant, this is my first modded gameboy, but it's still near impossible to see. I'll take that picture now. Should I upload it here or send you a PM? Thanks!

Hey all, just got word. There is a polarized film in there and yes the screen was working properly before it shipped. Im gonna have him send a pic at the best view to see what the actual screen looks like (actually malfunctioning or just really faded). I have been noticing the blue lights are hard to see on some units. Remedy will be posted here for sure. Thanks for all the help.

I hate to bash on other people's companies, but if you can avoid it, try not to order from djtransformer. He's really unreliable, his orders take forever, and his products aren't even that great.

I've never done anything mod related to a gameboy before, I'm only starting to get into it now. As soon as I can I'm looking into ordering a tri-wing and opening it up to have a look.
I think it was supposed to have been put in normally, I didn't order it inverted or biverted.

Just for the record blue is also one of the backlight colors that provides the lowest contrast for two reasons: the pixels of the screen itself are blueish/violetish, so a certain amount of blue light will shine through them even if they're dark, and also the human eye has a harder time seeing contrast in that part of the spectrum. Just keep that in mind when testing, but the way you're describing it it definitely sounds like it's not just that.

Do you know if the polarizer is put in normal, if it inverts the screen or if the screen is biverted?

there are two layers you need to peel off during the mod you may have grabbed the outer only and inserted the polerized film. or you didnt add polerized film.

you've just got to promise to post the results/solution here

shit man... 

i'm sort of curious now, if you want to cover shipping i'll send you a piece of film my charge.  don't mind....  in the pursuit of knowledge after all...

PM me if so, i'll hook you up to a link to pay for just shipping...

Thanks kitsch and everyone for the help! I'll keep the thread posted until I solve my problem. I might look into ordering a polarization screen like this
http://www.djtransformer.com/shop/produ … product=32 and doing it myself if that's the problem.

thanks so much for all this info....  troubleshooting you will help others, and all that...

keep us posted about the solution?  i'd personally like to know... 

and, good luck!  i'm out of ideas now

The contrast knob makes only the slightest difference. All it seems to be doing is making the pixels only the slightest bit visible, I mean barely visible looking at the right angle.
I don't see anything too noticable though. It just stays the same, bright blue.

k.  thanks!  button failure indicates a busted CPU sometimes, so that's good

i'm really thinking its a polarization film oversight.  unless the potentiometer for the contrast is broken...

does the contrast knob make any difference when you turn it?  i mean...  i know the contrast doesn't correct itself doing that, but does the screen change at all when you do this?

particularly, does the screen seem to (as a whole) make a shift from being one color to the other?  (a normal<->inverted shift is what I mean).  if it does, and you still see no graphics really on the screen, i'm laying money the polarization film on top of the backlight panel is missing...

The power LED comes on as normal. I just popped in tetris, and it looks like all the buttons work perfectly too. It also has a prosound, which is working as well.