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I'm creating a piece of work that requires the NES control to control both visuals on screen (via USB/NES Retrousb convertor) and the NES console, simultaneously. I hazard a guess this may be rather easy to do, just a case of splitting the cable and adding another male on the end.
Would anyone here be willing and able to create this?
I think the easiest way would be to solder an other Controller's chord at all the same points. This should, theoretically, work. If it doesn't, it means that the logical levels aren't strong enough to trigger. Give the first idea a go and let us know how it goes.
As Heos said, just take another cable and merge the two at some point. If you discover that this doesn't work, then a small transistor amplifier circuit might be worth your trouble:
As Heos said, just take another cable and merge the two at some point. If you discover that this doesn't work, then a small transistor amplifier circuit might be worth your trouble:
I was thinking of just merging both cables on the same solder point within the Controller and have two holes/cables coming out. I'd also go with a op-amp amplification for output, FUCK YEAH! POWER!
Heos: Will not work! The controller is a slave device and both the control deck and the USB adapter will try to be master. Will not work (as expected)
Heos: Will not work! The controller is a slave device and both the control deck and the USB adapter will try to be master. Will not work (as expected)
Awh, I guess you're right. Sucks to be me.
Can confirm what nitro said. One solution would be to use something like an arduino (or other simple microcontroller) to read button presses from a single controller and then pass them on to the consoles using two separate sets of digital outputs.
Crazy idea... You could stack another 4021 on top of the existing one. Solder all the pins except 3, 7, 9 and 10 to the bottom chip. 3, 7, 9, 10 is what transmits the data and powers the chip, so connect these as appropriate to the second cable. Also connect ground on the second cable to any ground point on the board.
HEY NEX, I DON'T HAVE A NES SO TRY THIS FOR ME PLEASE! It should work though.
Crazy idea... You could stack another 4021 on top of the existing one. Solder all the pins except 3, 7, 9 and 10 to the bottom chip. 3, 7, 9, 10 is what transmits the data and powers the chip, so connect these as appropriate to the second cable. Also connect ground on the second cable to any ground point on the board.
HEY NEX, I DON'T HAVE A NES SO TRY THIS FOR ME PLEASE! It should work though.
you are going to have to bare with me on this one, my NES has decided to stop booting! let me see what some rubbing alcohol can do
If you only have one NES... This + Mario Bros. (Not Super...)
Maybe this?
Yes to that! Good find!
damn, my nes just wont boot! i think its game over for the poor thing. i need a new nes
hi there. consulted the internet after running into a similar need and doing a simple splice of matching colors, and found this, pretty much the only relevant thread anywhere. thought it would be okay to resurrect if i had something to contribute
a brief description of the performance of the spliced outputs for anyone interested: plugging one or the other output into the standard original nes console produced normal behavior. plugging both outputs into the same console also produced normal behavior, rather than the double-tapping i was naively expecting. starting with only one output plugged into a powered-on system, plugging the second output into a second, powered-off console locked the controller (i believe it froze as if down was permanently pressed) and lit up the power LED on the second console; unplugging that second output from the second console would then restore normal behavior. plugging both outputs into separate powered-off consoles and then turning them on simultaneously produced hilarious and bizarre glitches, usually with one, character-sized symbol wallpapered across the screen.
anyway, i'd expected the separate power supplies to be an issue, but now i see that it is not as simple as removing a superfluous +5 VDC connection. the suggestion nitro made about adding another chip seemed rather clever. i have the capacity to perform that experiment, but was wondering if anyone would be willing to verify the theory and confirm the pin numbers given before i did all that soldering. the solution sounded good to me, and if anyone can second it, i'll be happy to try it out and post the results here. thanks very much.
