Koji-Kendo
Offline
kitsch wrote:

^ diffusion film wink

if you'd like to experiment with some of the kitsch-bent type (which is a little different, its not typical diffusion film) i'd be more than happy to send you some for testing.  just PM or email at matt(aatt)kitsch-bent(ddoott)com

"Diffusion film"...now I remember. PM sent!

Last edited by Koji-Kendo (Jun 20, 2014 8:32 pm)

thursdaycustoms
Offline
Cleveland, OH

This is very relevant to my interests(job). When the Loca cures does it actually glue the frontlight to the LCD or would it just pull right up? I'm very fond of the SP method(except for the fact that I'm using an SP) because I install them horizontally after I cut the panels and it always looks great. It's difficult to see from the pictures but do you think this would be better than a top notch SP frontlight install?

kmksoulja
Offline

i would also like to commission you to install one of those.

rygD
Offline

If anyone tries it using solar curing please share your experience.

thursdaycustoms wrote:

This is very relevant to my interests(job). When the Loca cures does it actually glue the frontlight to the LCD or would it just pull right up? I'm very fond of the SP method(except for the fact that I'm using an SP) because I install them horizontally after I cut the panels and it always looks great. It's difficult to see from the pictures but do you think this would be better than a top notch SP frontlight install?

I have a couple LCDs I can send you to experiment with and do a side by side comparison.  What would you charge for doing something like this?

Last edited by rygD (Jun 22, 2014 2:43 am)

Koji-Kendo
Offline
thursdaycustoms wrote:

This is very relevant to my interests(job). When the Loca cures does it actually glue the front-light to the LCD or would it just pull right up? I'm very fond of the SP method(except for the fact that I'm using an SP) because I install them horizontally after I cut the panels and it always looks great. It's difficult to see from the pictures but do you think this would be better than a top notch SP front-light install?

When the loca cures, it is "permanently bonded".
It is on there pretty damn well, especially with the higher quality loca, like Osaka.
I've used the typical stuff in a red tube and there's a noticeable difference in the bond.

The manufacturer's descriptions online say not to try removing thing's you've bonded with loca to an lcd screen and I have to agree, it's typically that strong.

"Better" would be an objective opinion to the end-user, but from my personal experience, I'm of the opinion that the horizontal, corrected positioning is the clearest method, however I have since lost interest in using that method for commission / resale front-lit CGBs due to the pros of the "101" / kitsch-loca method.

Let's say that it is very nice to have a personal collection of each of the main mods:
The standard SP mod, the corrected and this new one.

In my personal collection, I have those three in addition to a red led front-lit cgb (which I called "virtual boy color", an SP light panel front-lit loca'd with a white, dmg back-light panel (like mentioned before, clearer and brighter, but with faint pillars of light).
I've tried lots of light panels. NDS, DS Lite, DSi and such in my ongoing experiments, with mixed and mostly disappointing results.

Last edited by Koji-Kendo (Jun 21, 2014 8:48 am)

Koji-Kendo
Offline
kmksoulja wrote:

i would also like to commission you to install one of those.

PM me the specifics you have in mind outside the front-light method and I'll see what I can do, or if you have a unit you would like to send to me for such commission.

Koji-Kendo
Offline
rygD wrote:

If anyone tries it using solar curing please share your experience.

I have tried (started with actually) solar curing on the inside of a window sill with a handful of different units, and in my personal experience, It works great as a curing method.
Same (if not better) strength of bond albeit a noticeably longer curing time required. The only reason I don't do it now is because I have mostly a night schedule lately and so the curing lamp helps and I got tired of cloudy days, crappy weather and such.
But yes, it works great!

Last edited by Koji-Kendo (Jun 21, 2014 9:37 am)

rygD
Offline

Probably a dumb question, but would you be able to replace the LED strip/module thingy after attaching the panel?

Last edited by rygD (Jun 22, 2014 2:50 am)

kitsch
Offline
matt's mind

^ as long as the LOCA is cured before you add the PCB back (i.e., you don't bond the PCB to the LOCA too), you can add/remove the PCB board as you wish, the panel is cut through.  you'd need to peel back the reflective film again to do this, but otherwise it should be fine

but, being as I haven't done this myself (yet, can't wait!) I'll let OP say for certain...

rygD
Offline

Ok.  I was asking because he never said to remove all that,  Just peel it on the side facing the screen.  If it won't cause problems to remove it while doing the LOCA, then putting it back later (I don't know if the adhesive will restick after removal, or how it attaches to the panel) that seems best to me for decades more use.

Koji-Kendo
Offline
rygD wrote:

Probably a dumb question, but would you be able to replace the LED strip/module thingy after attaching the panel?

Oh yes, the led strip with wires can be removed and re-attached / replaced anytime as the loca doesn't (should not) reach that far down.
Removing it initially is easy enough (with gentleness and care of course).

After replacing it, I would recommend tiny dabs of super glue on the 2 ends.
Yes, it is viable to remove and re-install with a new led and wire strip, should the need arise in the unforeseeable future.

Koji-Kendo
Offline
rygD wrote:

Ok.  I was asking because he never said to remove all that,  Just peel it on the side facing the screen.  If it won't cause problems to remove it while doing the LOCA, then putting it back later (I don't know if the adhesive will restick after removal, or how it attaches to the panel) that seems best to me for decades more use.

The only things that need be removed in order to bond are the clear protective sheet and the reflective tape off the back of the panel.
Everything else can or should stay in place.
(I used a stripped down panel alone (w/o the led strip / wires cause that's all I had available for that particular photo op. I will try and get around to updating the photos with a complete unit to reduce further confusion.)

I recommend the reflective tape be placed on the front along the bottom (after curing) to cover the light bleed through the shell. The 5 leds will be visible through the shell case in a darkened location, even an opaque shell.

Again, the led strip can be replaced with a couple of dabs of superglue or another, effective adhesive, up to the end-user's discretion.

Last edited by Koji-Kendo (Jun 27, 2014 10:37 am)

kitsch
Offline
matt's mind

it may be worth mentioning that there is a LOCA removal substance available as well, I ran across it doing some searches for LOCA.  i can't recall the name/chemical, but it exists.  its used to do a repair on a screen which is bonded using LOCA

kitsch
Offline
matt's mind

(i know who this person is, because they gave me a heads up they submitted this, but thank you anonymous contributor!)

hackaday heart

http://hackaday.com/2014/06/22/hackaday … e-22-2014/

scott
Offline

So I just did this, and for the most part it looks great!  However, I did seem to rush it a bit and ended up getting a few air bubbles, as can be seen in my picture.  Is there any way to get those out still, or am I stuck with them?

kitsch
Offline
matt's mind

did you cure the LOCA already?  if so, you are more or less stuck with them UNLESS you use a LOCA remover and re-do the whole thing.  which will most likely end up with a really crappy result unless you use a new frontlight panel as well.

the removal of the loca will almost certainly screw up the panel.  but, i've not spoken with anyone yet who has actually removed the loca, so perhaps not.

but, if its cured already, its sort of set-in-stone.

if its not cured just push those bubbles out the edge, then cure