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Hello,
So I went through a couple of tutorials how to oveclock a NES (such as this one). They all require cutting traces to pin 29 of the CPU. I don't understand why. Can I just desolder and pull out this pin? Don't want to make irreversible changes to the PCB. Thanks.
Wouldn't pulling the pin be just as "irreversible" as cutting the trace? I'd think just cutting the trace would be easier 'cause if you want to revert it back to stock then you just jump a bit of solder across the cut trace.
dont wreck a nes. have a professional do it!
Wouldn't pulling the pin be just as "irreversible" as cutting the trace? I'd think just cutting the trace would be easier 'cause if you want to revert it back to stock then you just jump a bit of solder across the cut trace.
I believe it wouldn't since you can either put it back to the hole and add a bit of solder or use a small wire to connect the pin. What I meant by pulling it out is that you just kind of take out the leg from the hole you don't cut it or anything.
Frankly I do not understand how would you solder back a PCB trace. Indeed you could solder two ends of the cut trace with a wire but what do you mean by jumping a bit of solder? You mean one should scrub the PCB to expose the copper and then solder two parts of the cut trace? Because I don't see where the solder sticks to on this case....
dont wreck a nes. have a professional do it!
I won't 
I'm actually saving non-working consoles (and modding some of them) not wrecking 
The reason I'm asking is that no tutorial actually explains why should you *cut* the trace, so I was hoping that someone familiar with the schematic would give me quick answer. I think I'll look into the schematic myself and try to figure can I avoid cutting traces or not (I just don't like cutting anything on PCB). I'll keep you updated
Last edited by friendofmegaman (Sep 3, 2014 8:59 pm)
onapokoya wrote:Wouldn't pulling the pin be just as "irreversible" as cutting the trace? I'd think just cutting the trace would be easier 'cause if you want to revert it back to stock then you just jump a bit of solder across the cut trace.
I believe it wouldn't since you can either put it back to the hole and add a bit of solder or use a small wire to connect the pin. What I meant by pulling it out is that you just kind of take out the leg from the hole you don't cut it or anything.
Frankly I do not understand how would you solder back a PCB trace. Indeed you could solder two ends of the cut trace with a wire but what do you mean by jumping a bit of solder? You mean one should scrub the PCB to expose the copper and then solder two parts of the cut trace? Because I don't see where the solder sticks to on this case....
bitjacker wrote:dont wreck a nes. have a professional do it!
I won't
The reason I'm asking is that no tutorial actually explains why should you *cut* the trace, so I was hoping that someone familiar with the schematic would give me quick answer. I think I'll look into the schematic myself and try to figure can I avoid cutting traces or not (I just don't like cutting anything on PCB). I'll keep you updated
- Yes, to jumper the traces you would have to scrape the green solder mask off of the copper. The reason you have to cut the trace is so that the original clock signal does not enter that pin. Your idea to pull the leg out and solder to your own clock is a fine idea too, but I would suggest pulling the whole chip out and adding a DIL socket.
friendofmegaman wrote:I believe it wouldn't since you can either put it back to the hole and add a bit of solder or use a small wire to connect the pin. What I meant by pulling it out is that you just kind of take out the leg from the hole you don't cut it or anything.
Frankly I do not understand how would you solder back a PCB trace. Indeed you could solder two ends of the cut trace with a wire but what do you mean by jumping a bit of solder? You mean one should scrub the PCB to expose the copper and then solder two parts of the cut trace? Because I don't see where the solder sticks to on this case....
I won't
The reason I'm asking is that no tutorial actually explains why should you *cut* the trace, so I was hoping that someone familiar with the schematic would give me quick answer. I think I'll look into the schematic myself and try to figure can I avoid cutting traces or not (I just don't like cutting anything on PCB). I'll keep you updated
- Yes, to jumper the traces you would have to scrape the green solder mask off of the copper. The reason you have to cut the trace is so that the original clock signal does not enter that pin. Your idea to pull the leg out and solder to your own clock is a fine idea too, but I would suggest pulling the whole chip out and adding a DIL socket.
You would risk breaking the pin off the IC; you'd have to do allot of bending to pull just one pin. If you'er dead set on not cutting a trace, I would de-solder the whole chip and then bend the pin.
With cutting a trace it's a simple job to restore it; the solder mask is very easy to scratch off. I've repaired cracked PCBs, bridging all the broken traces and epoxying the crack on the board. I had a monitor that lasted 10yrs after I rescued it
Yogi
DIL socket sounds good!
I've never tried fixing cut PCBs... in fact I have a cracked Super Metroid and Yogi's story makes me want trying this method and restore the cartridge...
Anyways thanks for the good advice fellas
DIL socket sounds good!
I've never tried fixing cut PCBs... in fact I have a cracked Super Metroid and Yogi's story makes me want trying this method and restore the cartridge...
Anyways thanks for the good advice fellas
As long as you take your time and it's only a double sided board, bridge cracked traces with short lengths of 30 awg wire (wire wrap) for most signals and a heaver gage for power. Then clean with 90% rubbing alcohol and fill/overlay the crack(s) with 2 part epoxy on both sides.
The tricky part is if a section of trace/board is missing, just do your best to match up both sides of the missing trace. Kind of like a jigsaw puzzle If the damage is really bad well there may be no hope; but nothing ventured, nothing gained.
Yogi
You would risk breaking the pin off the IC; you'd have to do allot of bending to pull just one pin. If you'er dead set on not cutting a trace, I would de-solder the whole chip and then bend the pin.
With cutting a trace it's a simple job to restore it; the solder mask is very easy to scratch off. I've repaired cracked PCBs, bridging all the broken traces and epoxying the crack on the board. I had a monitor that lasted 10yrs after I rescued it
Yogi
This is what I was thinking would happen as well but I just didn't get it out right. I bivert DMGs and I just cut the traces. If removing single pins was required I wouldn't bother. I think that would be too much work and too risky. Also recently added some link ports to a few Super Gameboys and I just cut the required traces. I never even considered removing a whole pin. It would probably just break the pin off while trying to remove it.
yogi wrote:You would risk breaking the pin off the IC; you'd have to do allot of bending to pull just one pin. If you'er dead set on not cutting a trace, I would de-solder the whole chip and then bend the pin.
With cutting a trace it's a simple job to restore it; the solder mask is very easy to scratch off. I've repaired cracked PCBs, bridging all the broken traces and epoxying the crack on the board. I had a monitor that lasted 10yrs after I rescued it
YogiThis is what I was thinking would happen as well but I just didn't get it out right. I bivert DMGs and I just cut the traces. If removing single pins was required I wouldn't bother. I think that would be too much work and too risky. Also recently added some link ports to a few Super Gameboys and I just cut the required traces. I never even considered removing a whole pin. It would probably just break the pin off while trying to remove it.
I guess it's just the matter of taste, because for me lifting two pins of the lcd socket is a piece of cake. I tried cutting once, but I ended up undercutting and needed several goes to finish.
Last edited by friendofmegaman (Sep 4, 2014 3:32 am)
Waaaait a second.... why can't we de-solder the native crystal and replace it with, say 24 MHz one?
Replacing the main xtal would affect the PPU as well as the 2A03, and would mess with the timing of the video signal.
Replacing the main xtal would affect the PPU as well as the 2A03, and would mess with the timing of the video signal.
Aha, got it, thanks!