ScanianWolf
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Paris, France
Knife Crimes wrote:

I can't think of anything that would connect the issues you report with LSDJ to the replacement power regulator. Maybe a coincidence? Others might know better than me.

It does seem possible that backlight LEDs would be able to draw more current from the new source and thus run a little hotter. A higher value current limiting resistor could be an option.

I happen to have the RetroSix board on order at the moment, so I'll endeavour to report back when it arrives.

I did some backtracking on my particular backlight to see if I might've installed it incorrectly and I stumbled upon a video that Nonfinite Electronics uploaded long after I had installed my backlight and he is definitely not soldering the backlight to the same points that I did.

(The video is filmed from far away so it's impossible to see which points he's using, maybe someone knows:
https://youtu.be/YO_Ed6wjwBI?t=344)

I'm using these points but without the resistor, maybe that's where my problem lies..

However I'm pretty certain that Nonfinite stated back when this  backlight was released that there would be no need for any additional resistors because they were built in.

Perhaps that someone with more expertise could clarify all this; I'd be mighty thankful cause I'm desperate to get my DMG up and running without having to wait for additional parts and lengthy shipments etc.

It should be added that the CleanPower board outputs 6V instead of 5V if I understood correctly from the previous posts.

Last edited by ScanianWolf (Jul 9, 2020 10:36 am)

Knife Crimes
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Haven't used Nonfinite backlights so don't know if they have a resistor built in. Maybe email them to ask?

Split
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As an update to the CleanPower board, thanks ScanianWolf for the voltage output testing. It looks like they have updated the CleanPower board to a new version with different components and layout. Am hoping they use 5v instead of 6v with this new version but that remains to be seen.

rebb
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CleanPower V1 does not work with flash carts. On Hand Held Legend page some one talks about adding one diode to make it work, but no instructions. " Added a (MUR160G) diode, like the instructions said, so that flash carts could get enough power."

Last edited by rebb (Oct 16, 2020 7:37 pm)

Split
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Acquired one of the v2 boards a while back and finally had some time to test it out. Happy to report the output is about 5v and the negative is about -18v (analog multimeter). As to flash cart/backlight combos, I wasn't able to test how much amperage it can provide so I'm not sure if that diode is still needed. It also runs significantly cooler than the stock DC board it replaced so my original issue seems to be resolved with this. Thanks for everyone's input up to this point

Split
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ScanianWolf wrote:
Knife Crimes wrote:

I can't think of anything that would connect the issues you report with LSDJ to the replacement power regulator. Maybe a coincidence? Others might know better than me.

It should be added that the CleanPower board outputs 6V instead of 5V if I understood correctly from the previous posts.

I was doing a little reading and came across a Reddit thread where the specifications of the CleanPower were discussed. One iteration of the board is confirmed to output 6v instead of 5v and subsequently cause issues with flash cartridges. Efficiency was also addressed and it's not quite there yet, either.

So it appears the higher voltage of the earlier board can cause issues with flash carts and, therefore, lead to crashes with LSDj. To hear the efficiency of the v2 is still poor is a bit discouraging, perhaps another revision will resolve things.

Last edited by Split (Apr 14, 2021 11:08 pm)

Duck
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London, UK

can confirm v1 definitely doesn't work with flash carts properly. Which caused me a lot of headaches transplanting power boards in and out of a modded DMG....

ScanianWolf
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Paris, France
Duck wrote:

can confirm v1 definitely doesn't work with flash carts properly. Which caused me a lot of headaches transplanting power boards in and out of a modded DMG....

Same, I contacted Retrosix about this and I thought that they'd send me two replacements (V2) for two boards I purchased this summer.
However they claimed that some of the V1 boards should work properly and since I had only tried one of them they only sent me one replacement board hmm. I'm gonna contact them again cause I have another DMG build coming up and I don't want to go through the same struggle again that you've also experienced..

Split
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catskull wrote:

The other option is to get one of the new IPS lcd kits and then eliminate the built in regulator completely and just use your 5v regulator. Haven't tried that myself yet but I heard that it works fine.

I've gotten to the point of gathering parts for an IPS build using the FunnyPlaying kit so I'm starting to explore this idea a bit more. I have another Pololu on hand and would love to be able to replace the built in regulator altogether with the Pololu but not sure if the FunnyPlaying kit depends on the -19V in any fashion.

I remember reading a blog post or similar somewhere that some of the components may actually use the negative line as a ground but I may be remembering that incorrectly. I've referenced bit 9's board schematic thread, particularly the front of the CPU board that has -19V going to pin 3 on the LCD ribbon cable as well as the LCD board and its schematic. The LCD replacement board for the FunnyPlaying IPS kit doesn't appear to have anything attached to pin 3 (third from the right) but I don't know for sure. To my untrained eye there don't appear to be any components using that line as a ground but if it is the case I wonder if the -19V line and the GND can both be tied to the GND on the Pololu from the CPU board...

Last edited by Split (Mar 30, 2021 11:29 pm)

Split
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Another small update after more reading around on the r/gameboy Discord that may be useful information for some people: if your IPS kit does not put a load on the -19v line and you are using a stock DC regulator there is a risk of popping a diode/cap on the DC board. The working solution looks to be removing the diode or adding a resistor- in addition, and perhaps more relevant to chip music, it appears this fix may also rectify audio issues related to IPS screens.