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Topics by hybrid-reality
Posts found: 1-16 of 17
tvall wrote:the silicone feel a little too short in a stock shell to me, but they fit perfectly in the custom shell I got from from kitsch-bent. I cant tell visually any difference in the thickness of the shells, so i guess its just like 1mm or so making a noticable difference.
also, i recognize that tube of solder and pump from one of your earlier pictures. seems we bought the same soldering iron kit.
Yeah, I'm guessing if I would've bought the shell from Kitsch-Bent, it would've been a perfect fit.
It's not a HUGE problem. The A/B and Start/Select feel great. It's just the D-Pad. I can feel a slight difference from the stock D-Pad. Like you said: it's literally about a 1-2mm difference, but I can't complain. It works and that's all that matters. 
Haha, yeah I got it off Amazon. Does the job!
MaxDolensky wrote:Please list a price. I'm interested.
So, I figured I'd give everyone an update.
After my fail on modding it the first time, I felt a bit discouraged, but I bought some cheap DMGs on eBay and went ahead and purchased a Density Backlight from ASMRetro. (The first one was from eBay. Probably a cheap knockoff that might have caused me all those problems.)
Just arrived today and finally have a modded Gameboy!!!
I am beyond excited and have been playing it all day.
Purchased the silicone glow-in-the-dark buttons from Kitsch-Bent.
They feel a bit too close to the shell, but they work just fine.
Will probably end up buying the regular plastic ones in the future, but I do like the silicone feel.
Also, they have the Density Backlight and a VC Backlight. Not sure what the difference is.
Over it.
Buying new everything.
If I dont, I'll end up throwing this against the wall and/or smashing it to bits.
I'll just use it for parts.
Thanks for the help, everyone.
Yeah, I'm about ready to call it quits.
I am very positive. I just spent around fifteen minutes trying to peel away at it and nothing came off.
This is the color of it as of now.
Also, when I first placed the polarizer, it didn't work as well, so I peeled away and found a blue film still stuck on it.
But again, still didn't work.
So I did end up trimming the ribbon cable a bit and still nothing is shown. I noticed that if I run my finger or the end of a pen on the right side of the ribbon cable (near the blue tip) the screen shows some weird static.
I'm really thinking of buying another Gameboy, but I'm still stuck on making this one work. I have no idea how this happened though. It was fine when I bought it.
Maybe bending that ribbon cable too much or something, I don't know.
Another thing I should mention is that when I was cleaning the screen with isopropyl, I think the q-tip accidentally touched the ribbon cables behind the glass. I don't know if that would cause any problems, but I have heard in videos not to let that happen.
I guess I could cut the tip of the ribbon cable as a last resort and of that doesn't work, then I guess it's the alcohol that did it?
I'll upload some pictures of the ribbon cable tip.
Also, thanks for all the help so far, everyone! I really appreciate it. (:
ChipCzuk wrote:Try unseating the ribbon cable from the back board again and checking that no traces have come loose or bent back on the end of the ribbon cable. This has happened to me before and I've fixed it by cutting a straight edge on it again with a decent pair of scissors.
Also, I'm assuming you removed the original protective film from the back of the glass on the game boy screen (another stupid one I know). This is also the bit where ribbon cable damage is most likely to happen. If you have damaged the cable it should be fairly easy to spot by gently pulling the screen outwards again. The horizontal cables are soldered to the board behind the screen and the vertical cables are attached to the front of the screen at the bottom.
Well, it is kind of bent on one corner. I'd take a picture, but you wouldn't be able to tell, but in person, the tip is bent a little backwards. A tiiiiiiny bit, however.
I've looked everywhere else for minutes and don't see a tear or any other imperfection. It's been driving me crazy. Lol
stargazer wrote:All the backlight is doing is lighting up. So if that is working (which it is) then it's not the issue. Can you post an image of the screen without the polarizing film in between the backlight and the lcd? Put like a little piece of paper with something written on its in place.
Here you go! It's bright out today and I don't know how big I should've made the paper, but yeah lol.
Close up.
Maybe still dirty?
However, that's why I haven't bought another DMG. I need to know if it's the backlight or the DMG itself. That's what worries me.
ChipCzuk wrote:Did you place polarising film between the backlight and the screen?
Yes.
Even put it in front of the glass and behind the backlight itself to make sure I was covering my bases, haha.
Tried with and without the 100 ohm resistor, tried other soldering areas, but only the one on the top right instead of the bottom right one. Don't know if there's any other places to try it, but I'll try and upload some pics right now.
Imgur hasn't been working for me lately.
If not, I'll link it to my Instagram as a last resort.
I've been just thinking about buying another cheap one with dead pixels (easy fix) and try my luck on that one.
I've also been thinking it might be the backlight itself, but it does light up, so I'm kind of lost on that.
Now I'm pretty convinced it's a ribbon cable or something.,.
Nick Walrus wrote:Probably a stupid question, but you did try the constrast wheel, right?
Hahaha, yeah, that was my first thought when it didn't display anything.
But yes, I've turned it on and off on different contrast settings and nothing.
Posts found: 1-16 of 17
ChipMusic.org / Forums / Posts by hybrid-reality
