1

(17 replies, posted in Trading Post)

barbeque wrote:

i personally have a sidfx so everything is protected by that board. good looks tho. lemon64 is a wealth of information

Damn, that is a sick device. Thanks for the tip.

2

(17 replies, posted in Trading Post)

barbeque wrote:
Orgia Mode wrote:

Does SD2IEC simply use the user port for power or something else?
I wonder if a 1-to-2 User Port Splitter add-on would be a good option. The majority of user will likely be using a floppy drive emulator as opposed to an official one.

serial port is used for data and power comes from the cassette port.

edit: confusing my port names

OK, so there are no conflicts.
On another note, I just came across some ESD protection boards that piggy-back the controller ports. A suggestion for you to protect your SIDs:
https://www.lemon64.com/forum/viewtopic … 711#890711

3

(17 replies, posted in Trading Post)

barbeque wrote:

would you consider adding an additional user port input to the device? this way one would still be able to use sd2iec or similar devices in parallel with the midi sync.

Does SD2IEC simply use the user port for power or something else?
I wonder if a 1-to-2 User Port Splitter add-on would be a good option. The majority of user will likely be using a floppy drive emulator as opposed to an official one.

4

(26 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

FroliciousYo wrote:

After some more testing, I found that the issue I was having was indeed with my keyboard. After trying another keyboard, I got mGB mode to work. The last thing to test with these is a PS2 Keyboard (whenever I get one). I'll be sure to update when I get that tested out! smile

Thats good news and good luck figuring out the Axiom. There must be a small setting you're missing.

5

(26 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I didn't see the link to the code at first but that is the right one, yes.
The mode lights will display the mode and then are used to display activity on each respective channel.
Which Mode are you using? Try sending MIDI data on Just Channel 1 for starters.
This question may seem silly but has to be answered. Is your midi cable connected between Axiom's MIDI OUT and Arduino's MIDI IN?

6

(26 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

FroliciousYo wrote:

I'm also having issues with my Catskull arduinoboy shields but I'm not sure whether or not to tag onto this post or make a new one. I'm using this version of the shield:
https://catskullelectronics.com/product … eq=uniform

I've downloaded the proper PS2 library, and the code goes up fine, but I'm getting no response when I attempt to use an axiom 25 to control the mGB function on the PS2 and non-PS2 versions

Can you link us to the exact code you uploaded to it?
Also, I'm not familiar with your MIDI controller. How d you confirm the channel it is controlling?

7

(26 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I looked at Catskull's eagle files on github and the opto is indeed backwards. I suspect you originally thought I meant diode, but you soldered that correctly. Let's hope the opto is not damaged, but its likely fine.

ScanianWolf wrote:

EDIT2: Thank you!!! That was the issue!
It's beyond me how I managed to mess that up though, cause I was sitting and carefully pairing up the components in the right direction/order before soldering!

Good. Please give us an update with the full status of the project. Are there any more issues?

8

(26 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Is your optocoupler IC in backwards?

EDIT: Yeah, it looks like it is. The stripe on the IC indicates the side with pin 1. Pull the IC out and rotate it 180 degrees.

I've seen that on a lot of parts. I can't say where off the top of my head tho. The 9028 probably has to do with production date.

I just googled that the RU probably means "The "Recognized Component Mark" is a type of quality mark issued by Underwriters Laboratories. It is placed on components which are intended to be part of a UL listed product, but which cannot bear the full UL logo themselves.[6] The general public does not ordinarily come across it, as it is borne on components which make up finished products."

You can see it on the "PC BD MD2 VA0 USA" as well.

I believe it is a VA6.
Comparing it to photos and chips here: https://segaretro.org/Sega_Mega_Drive/H … _revisions
If you read the label on your I/O chip, does it read "513-5433?" Thats the big square chip on the right. Just below it you can read "315-5402: VA5, 315-5433: VA6"
It doesn't seem like USA got a VA5, so I am very certain this is a VA6.

11

(26 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

ScanianWolf wrote:
Orgia Mode wrote:

How is it receiving power? Your LEDs may actually all be backwards. I think the LED flat-side usually goes to the square via.

Hi, thank you for your quick reply!
I put the longer leg of the LED through the square hole, which is supposed to be correct right?

I'm not so sure. I am almost positive the code calls for common-cathode LEDs. You can see that all of the square vias are connected together. Luckily, through-hole LEDs should be easy to heat up and flip.
Flip one and see if that helps.

Can you get a different link to the image?

13

(26 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

How is it receiving power? Your LEDs may actually all be backwards. I think the LED flat-side usually goes to the square via.

14

(89 replies, posted in Sega)

MazHoot wrote:

@Corthax, do you know about YMDJ?

http://gendev.spritesmind.net/forum/vie … php?t=1874

I believe CountSymphinc has stopped working on this project, but has open sourced it.
https://chipmusic.org/forums/topic/1535 … en-source/

15

(3 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

The Pelican "1150 Protector Case" may work for two GBs.
https://twitter.com/peterswimm/status/1 … 5110769664

But if you want room for cables+, check the dimensions of the larger ones.

Personally, I am comparing the dimensions of Apache cases. They seem to be cheaper.
The 2800 for example is half the price for a larger case.
https://www.harborfreight.com/2800-weat … 63926.html

At 4" deep, I wonder if you could fit the GBs on their side and have room left over for your other needs. You should make your own measurements to be sure.

EDIT: The 2800 is 3-3/4" deep internally and the DMG is 3-1/2". It's a little close.

Wow, thats an old one. Mine is labeled GB64USB-10 but I think you're mistaken about R6. R6 would be the 470 ohm chip resistor just below. Mine is also 470 ohm (labeled 471). The component that is "missing" is also missing form my board but I think I took it off intentionally. That part on mine, as seen in this post is/was the LED. I removed mine because it was too bright.

Does your cart not work?