1

(18 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I looked at Catskull's eagle files on github and the opto is indeed backwards. I suspect you originally thought I meant diode, but you soldered that correctly. Let's hope the opto is not damaged, but its likely fine.

ScanianWolf wrote:

EDIT2: Thank you!!! That was the issue!
It's beyond me how I managed to mess that up though, cause I was sitting and carefully pairing up the components in the right direction/order before soldering!

Good. Please give us an update with the full status of the project. Are there any more issues?

2

(18 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Is your optocoupler IC in backwards?

EDIT: Yeah, it looks like it is. The stripe on the IC indicates the side with pin 1. Pull the IC out and rotate it 180 degrees.

I've seen that on a lot of parts. I can't say where off the top of my head tho. The 9028 probably has to do with production date.

I just googled that the RU probably means "The "Recognized Component Mark" is a type of quality mark issued by Underwriters Laboratories. It is placed on components which are intended to be part of a UL listed product, but which cannot bear the full UL logo themselves.[6] The general public does not ordinarily come across it, as it is borne on components which make up finished products."

You can see it on the "PC BD MD2 VA0 USA" as well.

I believe it is a VA6.
Comparing it to photos and chips here: https://segaretro.org/Sega_Mega_Drive/H … _revisions
If you read the label on your I/O chip, does it read "513-5433?" Thats the big square chip on the right. Just below it you can read "315-5402: VA5, 315-5433: VA6"
It doesn't seem like USA got a VA5, so I am very certain this is a VA6.

5

(18 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

ScanianWolf wrote:
Orgia Mode wrote:

How is it receiving power? Your LEDs may actually all be backwards. I think the LED flat-side usually goes to the square via.

Hi, thank you for your quick reply!
I put the longer leg of the LED through the square hole, which is supposed to be correct right?

I'm not so sure. I am almost positive the code calls for common-cathode LEDs. You can see that all of the square vias are connected together. Luckily, through-hole LEDs should be easy to heat up and flip.
Flip one and see if that helps.

Can you get a different link to the image?

7

(18 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

How is it receiving power? Your LEDs may actually all be backwards. I think the LED flat-side usually goes to the square via.

8

(65 replies, posted in Sega)

MazHoot wrote:

@Corthax, do you know about YMDJ?

http://gendev.spritesmind.net/forum/vie … php?t=1874

I believe CountSymphinc has stopped working on this project, but has open sourced it.
https://chipmusic.org/forums/topic/1535 … en-source/

9

(3 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

The Pelican "1150 Protector Case" may work for two GBs.
https://twitter.com/peterswimm/status/1 … 5110769664

But if you want room for cables+, check the dimensions of the larger ones.

Personally, I am comparing the dimensions of Apache cases. They seem to be cheaper.
The 2800 for example is half the price for a larger case.
https://www.harborfreight.com/2800-weat … 63926.html

At 4" deep, I wonder if you could fit the GBs on their side and have room left over for your other needs. You should make your own measurements to be sure.

EDIT: The 2800 is 3-3/4" deep internally and the DMG is 3-1/2". It's a little close.

Wow, thats an old one. Mine is labeled GB64USB-10 but I think you're mistaken about R6. R6 would be the 470 ohm chip resistor just below. Mine is also 470 ohm (labeled 471). The component that is "missing" is also missing form my board but I think I took it off intentionally. That part on mine, as seen in this post is/was the LED. I removed mine because it was too bright.

Does your cart not work?

There are several revisions of these carts. Can you take a photo to compare so you dont accidentally get incorrect info?

Nice work, Knife Crimes. This could be very useful.
Update us when you are able to test it, MazHoot.

13

(9 replies, posted in Other Hardware)

Peter Dodge wrote:

bottom pic
side of R3

The R2 is the correct value, as for R1, it is a 15K, since I don’t have a 12K
R7 is a 10K, you might just not be able to see it, and R5 is an 82k with a 100K soldered on top to make ~182K also FYI R3 is 4 100Ks with a 62K or something like that with some heat shrink tubing on it.

You've mixed up your series- and parallel-resistance calculations. An 82k in parallel with an 100k will equal 45k. They need to be in series to get 182k. R3 is going to be way way lower with 5 resistors in the mix.

Bottom pic please. I would like to see the traces which were supposed to be cut.

15

(18 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Ntnd.fn wrote:

Hey guys, I’m having the same problem. I had a broken headphone board, so I ripped all the cables that connects the headphone board on the main board.. now I got no sound from the speaker. Can someone please help me on that?

See Kitsch's or Alley Beach's replay above.

Since your LEDs are responding now, I think it's time to look at your "link cable." Its possible you have Data IN and Data OUT switched.Can you just swap the solder points on ONE end of the cable and give that a test?