1 Reply by momeedees

(18 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

So some suggested to resolver the ground clips and bend them a bit.
I saw a YouTube Video on this, the guy in the video however just bend the clips and pressed the LCD board on to the power board, I had tried and failed with that initially.
BUT!
After the suggestion I thought to give it a try: Removing that mucky solder and reapplying fresh one did the trick! The screen works!

Even though working, its rather faint and flickers. I resoldered the connections of the wheel, and freshened up a few other solder blobs that seemed dull, to no avail.
I might try a complete recap those days.
Thanks for the suggestions and I hope some day this info might help someone else smile

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2 Reply by momeedees

(18 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Some pictures...
Close up of the "noise" I mentioned earlier, note that this is static and not moving or sth.
This appears in a smooth manner (takes like 2-3 seconds) after turning the contrast wheel all the way down.
Turning the wheel all the way up, makes the noise disappear and the screen shows evenly black.

The rear side of the LCD Board. I replaced 3 caps (C1, C2, C3) with caps from a scrape board, as well as the contrast wheel, assuming it would help, but nothing changed. The screen shows the same behavior when C3 is not soldered in at all (I wanted to see a changed behavior if a cap is missing).
The Jumper J2 had some corrosion form this side of the board, close to the left hole, you can still see some. I cleaned it with vinegar essence as good
as I could.

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3 Reply by momeedees

(18 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Mh, Is there any way to verify/falsify (measure sth. With the multimeter, visual indicators) this kind of damage? Sth to look for?
Can you also tell me about the remedy you wrote about?

edit:
applying pressure (brown ribbon), gently wiggling around (white ribbon) brings not change at all, not even slight hints.

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4 Reply by momeedees

(18 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Thanks for your reply apeshit.

I would assume the connections on the brown ribbon are alright.
As i turned on, all was black woth a few white/empty vertical lines.
I carefully removed the black sponge and adhesive film, and fixed the vertical lines by heating a small flat screwdriver with my soldering iron while rubbing the brown tape at the esge of the glass. All white lines turned black (had approx. 5 lines on the left side and around 8 on the right side of the screen).
If the brown tap is damaged, shouldn‘t I have had no lines at all?

Its an unmodded device, the adhesive that sticks screen to shell was still there as well and sticky.

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5 Topic by momeedees

(18 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Hi all,

so after years I got back into my DMG collection
and went through my scrap DMGs to test them out and fix.
I got one which had a few dead lines, which were easily fixed, however it
has abother weird problem:
When turning it on, the screen is directly all black.
The contrast wheel doesn‘t change anything
(I think sth. actually changes veeeeeery slightly but all in all it stays black, I also have the impression that after some time, a picture of noise appears, some pixels get almost unnoticable brighter).
The cables seem fine, sound works.
I changed the potentiometer, but nothing changed.
I connected another LCD board, which worked fine.

I found this post from a few years back, but it doesn‘t seem to be solved: https://chipmusic.org/forums/topic/1593 … -contrast/

Has anyone encountered this issue and solved it?
I got a soldering iron, multimeter, a bunch of caps and the will to try and fix it, but I really do not know what to do hmm
Any help appreciated!

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