Thanks for all the input!

@vblank

I found one (tilt switch)! Very cool.

@SketchMan3

Ok, cool. Ideas are good.

@Jazzmarazz

The space inside the toy (cellphone) that I plan to use is something like 2x3x4 cm.

[The space is right behind the speaker and the magnetism from the latter is strong enough to affect objects in the little space... But maybe that actually can be a good thing]

The piezo sounds like a good idea, and I happened to buy a bag of them the other day. Ultimately the resistance would be depending on how hard you shake, yes. The range can be as large as possible, I think the pitch should be higher in the accent, louder, position.

-----

Possible ways(?):

[I have discovered these glitches: pitch up/down (wire + or - to clock), gain/distort, and mute (of course). Also some soft gain that change the overtones.]

a) A tilt switch that bypass a gain boost or mute the signal completely. Loud in default position, soft when moved away.
Plus a fotoresistor/LDR (I got one of each, do not know which one is better to use) in the antenna. Then the pitch will also change when shaken, I suppose.

b) a piezo to clock faster/pitch upwards (or maybe one in each direction?!). The loud gain glitch only works with "full bypass" of the circuit points, so I suspect a piezo will not work with that. But bypassing one of the speaker wires might work.

These ideas sound pretty good to me, clean and simple enough! B)

EDIT: I found this (old) mouse ball which could hav been perfect for the piezo variant, heavy and with a rubber coating (silentish shaking), but it is too big. May be of use in another project.

yogi wrote:

A very long time ago I got some tilt switches. They consisted of a plastic box with a ball bearing (about 1/4") and 4 solid wire contacts on the inside walls. The box is about 1/2" x 3/4", so the ball can only travel about 3/16" along the long axis and only 1/16" between the short axis walls.
  The way the wires are setup- 2 in the center on the bottom, the ball rests on these when the box is level. Then a contact at either end of the long axis about half ways up; so when the box tilts, the ball bridges one of the bottom and a side contact. And when the box levels again the ball goes back to center on the 2 bottom contacts.
   So these are only a single axis and not very precise. They could be wired to detect level or a left or right tilt. Hope this makes sense.
Yogi

That makes sense, thank you. That is pretty much as I had it temporally set up but I made the box and a thing inside myself, and it was barely triggering.

@Domu
Yes, that is a problem and it is hard to avoid, its just a matter on how much noise is acceptable. Or even valuable.

@SketchMan3
I never even thought that an accelerometer would be possible in a simple bend. I figure it needs power and connection to a computer? Pricey? If it would be doable it is awesome.

By shaking the tilt box you only get a short signal at a fixed level (since the ball bounce away), and that is not so good (it's a tilt box, not a shake box). Ultimately you should be able to shake and affect the sound by shaking harder (or possible by changing axis a bit).

One idea is to on the inside make a (pencil) graphite ribbon resistor and have a ball or something hit that. Then the glitch pitch would be changeable.

It could would work with a small nail bent around another nail and let it tilt between two touch points, for just a simple trig. Problem is that it will (also) bounce off. Maybe with a weight at the end of the nail and a soft rubber band holding it back would be better. Still only fixed pitch.

Maybe put in photoresistors to detect motion (but accelerometers would be better I guess). I will probably put in one or two photoresistors anyway, for other effects.

big_smile

I am bending a little toy and when shaking I will make it glitch the pitch. A glitch maracas.

It has a small container inside perfect for making some tilt switch, but I have not succeeded making it work satisfying.

I have among other things tried to put aluminum foil inside, four touch points, bolts and screws, but it does not trigger well.

So do you have any experience with this and if so how should I do it? I have seen that there is a solution with a "boxed mercury ball".

Well, that was what I tried to do: backup the final fantasy save before switching to lsdj on bank 0. If you save the song in lsdj it will not be messed up. Besides, the messed up ones sound pretty cool. I have a bunch of roms on bank1, but I can do with just one game rom. Lsdj I rather keep on the cart all the time.

Edit: I downloaded the sram to my phone, but when I put it back on the ems it did not work. Maybe because you always start in bank0 where I have lsdj and lsdj write over sram instantly.

***EDIT 2: By not letting bank0 load but switch directly to bank1, I can load a save from my phone. So it works, but you need to do it with timing. smile ***

I have been using this app for a little while and it works awesome. Since I use a mac and bootcamp windows 8 this is a relief.

I was trying to backup some game saves, but that did not seem to work. I only see LSDj files. And here I was hoping to play Final Fantasy, also! Can you backup game saves?!

Thanks for a great app!

Got the EMS 64M now. Thanks kitsch!

Alright, I get it. Thanks!

Is it bad to use several grounding points for a device? Especially when it comes to input and output?

I am doing a quasi c.bend on an old car audio system eq. So this just a general question, not really chip.

...

Long winding description:

It has 4 channels out (speakers) with a ground connection each, I put 4 rca female here. The 2 input channels share 1 ground, I put a stereo jack female here.

Sometimes there is better performance, lower noise, no loud pops, when I detach some grounding cables, but then other, random it seems, things does not work, like panning. I just can not figure out how it works.

I now got that app installed, already have the otg adapter. big_smile

Now I need to get the Ems cartridge to Connecticut before Saturday. I am hoping for kitsch bent or nonelectronics. hmm

Alright, ems it is!

By up to date I mean is it actively being developed or maintained , I.e. to make sure it is not only working with win95 or have issues in itself.

I apologize for the lazy posting and bad English. To my defence I call Timelack and Androidsurfing (awkward surfing).

Moderator, please feel free to delete this thread if you find it not appropriate!

smile

Thanks a lot!

It seems like GB Ems USB 64M is the most popular one. Any recommendations? Is it up to date?

Hi,

I am in a rush buying a loadable cartridge, by usb or whatever. Optimally I would like to be able to load it from a mac. Or even my android, why not! smile It is for an Original Gameboy.

The reviews I find are about 5 years old, so I just want to make sure that I am up to date.

I would be very happy to know fast since I have different possible pickup locations as of now and I would like to cut shipping costs as well as delivery time.

B)

13

(16 replies, posted in Commodore Computers)

I got a 2 GHz Intel Core i7, 4 GB ram. Still I get overload messages from VICE. But there are not any options to set anything lower than 100 ms. But from the screenshots above it seems like akira^8GB has a PC.

Do you know anything about Frodo? Is it the same SID emulation?

14

(16 replies, posted in Commodore Computers)

Yes, thanks, I saw that but the lowest buffer size is 100 ms (OS X), which is way too slow for live playing. You need to get down to at least 20 ms to not be distracted. Or am I missing something, are there other ways to lower the latency?

15

(16 replies, posted in Commodore Computers)

Yes that would be the smart way, but I want limitations can be turned to features, glitches, unpredictable behavior, limited control, chaos. That sort of stuff. A modern professional VSTi and a DAW eliminates that. If I still would use a VSTi I am more appealed by VOPM http://www.geocities.jp/sam_kb/VOPM/ or Chip32 http://www.geocities.jp/sam_kb/Chip32/index.html big_smile

16

(16 replies, posted in Commodore Computers)

I tried it now, same settings and it works fine! I am quite used to MIDI disappearing on my system anyhow (OS X).

I plan to use the SID to create sound landscapes/bursts/noise for live use, with acoustic instruments. I am planning on using a chiptracker, editing in realtime, not synced by anything else than hitting "restart song". MIDI would be for being able to remote control the chosen application, but not to play notes. But computer keyboard might be better still.

I picked SID-Wizard since it had documentation and short commands for pattern editing, but I rather start out with SoundMonitor. Since I can not find documentation for that one it seem impossible to figure it out (arpeggio etc.) Maybe I can go back to SoundMonitor once I learn SID-Wizard.

In any case, the delay makes it useless for normal live playing. If I find that my concept works, I will get myself a real c64. I assume that since it is hardware sound chip there will be no delay with the real thing. And I assume that there is nothing to do about the delay in VICE.

Thanks a lot!