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Flattery will get you everywhere.

I've had bad luck with dremel tools and plastic.
My saw is 0.38 millimeters thick.

Went and picked up another GBA off CL.
But we don't need that just yet.

Time to fit the rear half of the D-pad housing.
Observe.

This was actually a little fidgety to cut out.

Now I need to do some shimming, sanding, and figuring out how to mount everything in there and get it to look right.

Then there was that one time when that I didn't plan my order of operations, and I suddenly had to build the part that should have been done first.

I need housing for the D-pad/Lens/Whatever.
This broken Gamecube controller looks like it will work nicely.

Thickness is pretty much perfect.

Time to hack away at it with reckless abandon (like I always do)

The top half needs to be the correct depth so I can have both halves close back together as if it were a manufactured product.

Amateur videogame surgery is one of my favorite games to play.

And now I have to go out and pick up another GBA I found on CL for $10... I need working internals and another set of shoulder buttons to go on the bottom.

I'll be back later.

LOL!

Looks like some people on instagram don't like seeing how things get made.
It's weird because they're POKEMON FANS! They have a Pokemon fan account! You'd think they'd be interested in knowing the steps so they could make one of their own.

If the paint on your work doesn't feel like it's quite done, DO NOT SPRAY CLEAR COAT ON IT.
You're paint will wrinkle up like a Scirocco dashboard.

If you are going to use a clear coat, use a lacquer clear, not acrylic.

I generally use Rust-O-Leum Painters touch. I do light coats 4-5 hours apart, and allow them to dry in a warm place outside, but not in direct sunlight. I also make sure the pieces are warm before I lay down the first coat. A light primer coat also helps the paint cure properly.

The paint usually has a funny feel for a couple of days after painting.

Examples: