Thanks for the advice on drums.  I've been playing around with some original compositions since I started this thread, and although they all sound more or less like garbage right now, I've figured out a couple of tricks with percussion.  Like you mentioned, cymbals have proven to be pretty useful.  I've also found the by pairing pulse kicks with noise kicks can free up a few ticks on the WAV channel, which is becoming more important to me as I learn how to manipulate synths to get some really cool sounds.  Mostly my Noise channel just sits there with empty phrases haha. 

You're right in guessing that I've already started playing with commands, and I've also started using tables for basic stuff like panning and envelope manipulation.  Since you mentioned them, I've started throwing commands and whatnot in tables, and I'm getting some pretty cool sounds from them.  So thanks for that bit of advice!

And you're definitely right about my some of the tunes being off by a tick or two.  I recorded each channel separately before rendering the song in Ableton.  Even though the waveforms are lined up, it seems like the gameboy's BPM fluctuates a bit.  Seems like re-recording while synced with an ArdounoBoy with my DAW set as master helps a bit with the fluctuation, but sometimes the tracks still don't line up quite right.  I'd record it all at once, but I wrote more parts than there are channels, so I can only record chunks at a time.  Thinking I'm going to need to get a second flashcart if I want things to work right.  Oh well

I'm pretty new to LSDJ and music production in general.  I discovered pretty quickly that modding Gameboys for chiptune production is far easier than actually using them to do so! lol  I've been doing LSDJ covers of videogame music to get the hang of navigating LSDJ and instrument creation.  I'm having the most trouble with creating percussion in the noise channel, or what to do with the noise channel in general. I'm tempted to just get another flash cart just so I can have a second wave channel for kits, as I usually use the wave channel for baselines.  Here's what I've come up with so far, input/constructive criticism is much appreciated!

https://soundcloud.com/sunmaster_xiv/ice-cap-zone-act-1

https://soundcloud.com/sunmaster_xiv/oc … udo-valley

https://soundcloud.com/sunmaster_xiv/theme  (I tried to make some pseudo-dubstep... haha)

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(13 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Thank you!!  I actually got the idea for the color scheme from the layout of this forum... tongue  The way the blue "who's online" tiles look on the black background caught my eye.   Teal is Rustoleum, think it's called "lagoon".  I'm all about those satin finishes lol

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(13 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

@Thursday Thanks, dude!  Wouldn't have been able to do it without your triple prosound board! wink  Debating whether or not to backlight it, I really like the way it looks right now.

@Bitjacker: Did pre-pot for the 1/4" jacks to get as close as line-level as possible.  Post-pot for the 3.5mm, which is just for a headphone jack.  Had to remove the stock audio PCB to accommodate the  PS/2 jack.

More pics:

[Edited for grammar]

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(13 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Went with 1/4", turned out great.  Thanks for the tips! 

On clear coating:  I've shot clear over white decal paper before (usually with Krylon Crystal Clear, flat) without any issues.  I like to apply my decals to the base coat.  Some people advocate for brushing on some clear where you wish to place the decal, but then you risk trapped solvents creating bubbles.  If using water-slide decals, let it dry twice as long as recommended, just to be safe.  Once your decals are in place, apply multiple coats of clear, following the instructions on the can.  I have trouble getting some decals, especially water slide decals, to stay adhered to matte finishes.

One problem with decal paper is that you can't really use the transparent paper on black, or other dark colors.  The decal either won't show up at all, or the colors will be muted.  This sucks for when you want to do text or something else that's too finely detailed to cut around.  I'm starting to think that laser cut stencils are the way to go....

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(13 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Interesting.  Thanks for the advice.  I managed to get XLR hooked up and working, but I didn't have anything with XLR-in on hand.  Using an XLR to 1/4" cable, I was able to test one cable at a time with an old 15watt guitar amp.  Sounded pretty good.  A friend who does sound mixing/recording suggested I use XLR over 1/4", because the mixerss he sees/uses these days are more likely to have XLR than 1/4".  He uses late format mixers though.  Might there be a way to remedy the signal issues?  I just wanted something sturdy and versatile haha

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(13 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

So basically, everything is grounded except for the Pin-1 which is carrying the audio signal?

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(13 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Thanks kineticturtle.  I usually do pre-pot and add an external switch for the internal speaker when I use RCA, and control the volume with a mixer.  I think I'd do the same with two 2 1/4 inches.  But I think that as long as I'm planning on an external mod like this, I might as well try XLR.  Same type of cable, so the wiring should be the same.  Just because I don't really know of many mixers that I could use two 1/4 inches with.

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(13 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Thanks!  I'll give that a shot.

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(13 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Might be a dumb question, but here goes:

Say I wanted to build a DMG with 2 TRS 1/4" outputs for balanced mono... I know (let's say, for the left channel) I need to solder to left, pre- or post-pot.  I believe I then connect the shield to ground?  So then, to what do I connect the other conductor in order to balance the signal?  Maybe I have this all wrong...  Thanks!