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hey,
i have an NES toploaded. i got it on ebay about 7 years ago.
it was almost new then. and it's been a champion all these years.
it worked first time, every time.

just last week, i popped in a game and hit the power button and
nothing happened. i checked the cables, i checked the tv, everything
was ok. i didnt notice turning the console on and off i was getting
*something* on the tv, but just blackness.

any idea's about what might be wrong?
replacing the 72 pin connector is out since it's a top loader
and it's not angled 90 degrees. i was thinking it might be
a capacitor issue and i know kitsch sells them.
but idk if that sounds like it might be the issue. also,
i have never done a capacitor replacement... is it tough?
im pretty ok at soldering.

thanx in advance.

Last edited by xero (Apr 18, 2012 1:29 pm)

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matt's mind

i don't have a cap kit for the nes ready yet, sorry.  haven't even started doing them for top loaders...

caps generally have a ~15 year life span.  not sure when that unit was made exactly...

i sort of doubt its that though.  if a failing cap actually affected the console in a noticeable way, it'd be a gradual change i'd think (caps leak, but slowly most the time).  if it was a sudden change, and it was the fault of a cap, it could has exploded but i think you'd know that.  but, still, even if the cap completely failed, the likeliness of it killing the system is slight unless it failed in a way it shorted out the console...

not really sure about this one.  shake the console, do you hear anything loose?

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thanx for the info kitsch. i now see the drop down list you can only order them for the DMG. i just thought the instructions were not up yet. sorry for the confusion.

yeah, it happened all at once. it literally worked the day before perfectly. then nothing the next day. i think im going to take it appart this weekend and see what's what inside. perhaps i can gain some insite that way. [ though that didnt work w/ the KP3 sad ]

i havent checked yet, but i think the top loader uses a security bit not regular screw like the NES1 did.
if so, it that the 4.5mm bit on your site kitsch?

thanx

Last edited by xero (Apr 18, 2012 2:38 pm)

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UK

it could be the voltage regulator has gone bad, try replacing that - or (and I'm not sure as only have original NES + Famicom's here) it could be an internal fuse has blown. before you do anything tho = try an alternative correctly rated PSU on it just in case thats where your problem is. hope that helps! \o_

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ne7 wrote:

it could be the voltage regulator has gone bad, try replacing that - or (and I'm not sure as only have original NES + Famicom's here) it could be an internal fuse has blown. before you do anything tho = try an alternative correctly rated PSU on it just in case thats where your problem is. hope that helps! \o_

thanx for the good suggestions. fuse is a real possibility.

as for the psu, i use the same one for my NES + SNES. i just switch the cable. and my SNES is still working like a champ.

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IL, US

Snes and nes use different voltages from what I remember... think its 10v for snes

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e.s.c. wrote:

Snes and nes use different voltages from what I remember... think its 10v for snes

just googled it, and they seems like the same volts to me.
i've been using them that way since i was a kid.

NES:
Input: AC 120V 60Hz
Output: DC 9V 850mA, made for use in North America (US, Canada, etc.). 

SNES:
input: AC 120V 60Hz
output: DC 9V 850mA, made for use in North America (US, Canada, etc.).

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IL, US

Hmm, my snes said 10v on it, maybe different revisions

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i did some more research.
according to multiple forum posts (i know, 100% reliable, right? ;D)
that NES, SNES, and SEGA genesis all use a 9v psu. nes/snes are identical,
and the only difference between them and sega is the adapter that
connects to the console (a little bigger diameter). that is for the genesis 1.
the 2 (and maybe 3) has a different style connector.

Last edited by xero (Apr 20, 2012 5:35 pm)

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Easton, PA, USA

http://www.raphnet.net/electronique/nes … php#supply
this is an old link but this fellow says the dc regulator in the nes is good up to 12V that you can even disregard the polarity. I say its time to bust out the multimeter and get to the bottom of it.