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Finland

Alright. Fair enough.

I see your point now.

But if I recall correctly both backlights are about as thick. There can't be a lot of difference, and even if there is a big enough difference so the polarizing film moves or doesn't sit well I'll have to somehow compensate for that.
And failing that, just replace the backlight with another one. But that's the end game solution. I won't go down without a good swing.

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Like I said, it's just a fraction of a mm, so I'm maybe just nitpicking. With that said, it's only a matter of making two small cuts to have it sit properly.

But no, they're certainly not the same thickness. They're about .6mm difference in size. It doesn't sound like much, but it is very significant when dealing with these tolerances.

Last edited by Apeshit (May 2, 2013 5:38 pm)

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Finland
Apeshit wrote:

Like I said, it's just a fraction of a mm, so I'm maybe just nitpicking. With that said, it's only a matter of making two small cuts to have it sit properly.

But no, they're certainly not the same thickness. They're about .6mm difference in size. It doesn't sound like much, but it is very significant when dealing with these tolerances.

*blush* yeah, my bad. My untrained eye said they are "about as thick". I'm new to this after all.

But my main point is still that since I have to remove the polarizing film that is glued to the LED-panel and replace it with the loose sheet, the thickness overall shouldn't change that much. Aren't all polarizing film sheets approximately as thick?

Another difference that springs to mind is that the Kitsch backlight is shaped sort of like a trapezoid at the bottom whilst the nonfinite backlight is a rectangle. So maybe this means I have to trim the film to match that one to make it less mismatched.

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matt's mind

yeah, the polarization film is basically the same thing across kits, if there is a difference in thickness of this particular part its negligible

the thickness difference is mainly due to the light guide, which doesn't matter much to you since you only need the polarization film.  which, you can cut with some sharp implement however you need wink  you'll find its pretty easy

you don't need to trim it to match the shape of the backlight even, just as long as it fits between the light source and the glass comfortably.  the important part is to just make sure the polarization film has coverage over the entire light guide panel.  but, you can trim it to match the shape if you wish.

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Finland

Fair enough, Kitsch. big_smile

I'm sure it'll work out someway, and if it doesn't it doesn't. No real harm done.

Provided this thread still exists later I can post some pics of the whole ordeal along with a conclusion whether it worked or not. smile

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matt's mind

yeah, that'd be awesome, there is really a bit to learn here about backlight construction, but more importantly repair.  i'll be looking forward to your results, at least

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Finland

OK well. Waiting's for suckers.

I decided to make the mentioned "fix" before my stuff arrived, which should be next week.

And I took a total of two pics, one during and one after, showing the result.

During... Old film going out...

After, showing the result... Or not. The pic is really, really shitty. My phone does this weird noise dither thing with dark photos.

Conclusion: It works! smile

Considerations for future: Having some form of adhesive for the loose sheet helps a lot.

Thanks again to everyone who helped out! big_smile
Now- I'm going to bed. I'm tired outta my skull.

EDIT:

So yeah. I noted that some form of adhesive helps to keep the loose sheet in place. However, take it from me: Not any type of adhesive works.
And this is the story of how I busted that particular sheet of polarizing film. Dumb ass mistake. It's fine though- I was able to save it using the sheet I recovered from the backlight itself, just turned to produce the normal polarization.

Last edited by my.Explosion (May 5, 2013 5:40 pm)