chipmusic.org is an online community in respect and relation to chip music, art and its parallels.
You are not logged in. Please login or register.
This helps a lot. It seems the hum is heard through the speaker / headphone jack and not directly from the backlight.
this is true(for mine at least). slight hum through headphones thats covered up while music is playing. i have an rca on it that doesnt have any hum at all. the light really is very purty too.
KineticTurtle via his blog:
http://kineticturtle.blogspot.com.au/20 … meboy.htmlThis helps a lot. It seems the hum is heard through the speaker / headphone jack and not directly from the backlight. I'm gonna get one as soon as they're available and do some tests.
Glad this was helpful - make sure you see the re-edit about pulling power directly from the power supply pcb - it makes a HUGE difference. 
It is, but it's lessened. Totally usable for live shows.
When do you think you'll have more in stock Kitsch? Definitely keen to get my hands on one or two. The width is significantly smaller too, am i correct? This should (hopefully) mean no more pressure points!
i'd say within a week or two? boards are being assembled now
Or, you could have a bivert chip hooked up to a double pole double throw switch, which when on allows the screen to bivert and for power to flow to the backlight. When it the screen turns off the switch also forces the biversion to revert. Nothing too crazy 
I bet it would be a solution worth looking at.
I'm still very new to this so I don't quite understand
Biverted screen:
- the image on the screen is inverted
- the plolarisation filter is turned 90 degrees
right?I don't think you can see anything without turning the polarisation filter..
Ah. Didn't know you were doing it that way! What I am suggesting is that you purchase a biversion chip (like this one at kitsch's store http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/hex-dmg-v1) and wire it in, as well as returning your polarization film to its normal position. If you wire the power for the LED backlight as well as the hex inverter to the double pole double throw switch (acts as 2 switches operating in-sync essentially), you can set it to be backlight-off-and-no-inversion, or backlight-on-with-hex-inversion by flipping the switch. That is a small investment, likely to cost less than $15, that can remedy your issue with a little bit of handywork.
EDIT - not 100% sure of how well it would work using the kit I listed, but I do know that switchable backlights as well as hex inverters have been done before (but not at the same time).
Last edited by thebitman (May 28, 2013 12:48 pm)