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Minneapolis

OK, so your old Greyboy isn't grey anymore? Your C64 looks like it just exited the Cheetos factory? Atari ST got a nasty looking tinge of yellow? Chances are, any old plastic cases you have are beginning to turn yellow, or already are quite yellow indeed. The UV degrades the plastic, making it brown/yellow and ugly. BUT, it is reversible! And it's pretty easy to do, cheap, and (if you use your head) safe for the plastics.

You will need:
-hydrogen peroxide- the 3% concentration found at most drug stores is the kind you want. Don't use the stronger stuff used for bleaching hair, as it will destroy the plastic
-Oxi Clean cleaning powder, or something that works the same.
-a sunny spot outside
-a clear container big enough to hold the plastic pieces to be de-yellowed
-water

So, step 1 is to clean you plastic parts and take all electronic guts/whatever was in them out. If there are metal bits attached to the plastic case, those need to be removed. You don't want anything but plastic going in. So, screws, metal case badges, etc. should not go in. Also beware that the plastics will get wet, and the solution will probably break down adhesives, so remove labels etc. On the gameboy, it's probably best to remove the screen lens too. Did I say to clean them? Use soap and water and make sure all the soap is off before you put them in to the solution.

Step 2, place all plastic parts into the container. It doesn't matter if they're unequally yellowed or different colors (like a gameboy's case and buttons) just throw 'em all in. Then pour enough hydrogen peroxide over the parts to cover. If it doesn't quite cover them, you can add a little water. So long as it's still pretty much all hydrogen peroxide.

Step 3, place the container in the sunny spot, and add the Oxi Clean powder. I add about a tablespoon per gallon of liquid, use less if your batch is smaller. No mixing is required, the reaction is quite rapid. It will foam and fizz and eventually turn clear. At this point, just leave it for about 6-8 hours in the sun. The UV in the sun reacts with the Oxi and hydrogen peroxide, which liberate bromine atoms from the plastic. (the bromine is what makes the plastic yellow) It will make alot of bubbles the entire time it's exposed to sunlight.


http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Jz … directlink

Step 4, remove the plastic when it looks like the yellow is all gone. You might need to repeat the process with a fresh batch of solution if your plastic is really badly yellowed.

Lastly, wash your pieces again, and reassemble and enjoy that wonderful, non-yellow look! If you want to protect against future yellowing you should apply a plastic protection product like Armor All or 303 Aerospace Protectant.


http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/fQ … directlink

Some notes:

-I have not noticed any fading of printed labels on things like Gameboys before, but sometimes stick-on labels will become bubbly or lift on the edges from being wet. Just so you know.

-Using higher concentrations of hydrogen peroxide or a ton of Oxi Clean can cause your plastics to be damaged. You have been warned.

-If you live in a part of the world where the sun is very hot, you should be careful it doesn't get hot enough to melt or deform your plastics. If you live in the desert, you might want to do this on a cloudy day, or inside under a UV lamp. I live in Minnesota, where it pretty much never gets very hot. I did this project on a partly cloudy day, with a little rain in the afternoon, so low levels of sun should not be an issue, you just might need more time in the sun.

-Finally, this process has been tested by me and I think it works reasonably well. But you should be careful all the same, and be aware that, just like working with Rit Dye, there is a possibility of wrecking your beloved greyboy case. But it worked for me, so you should have no problems with it.

AND as a final note, my method is derived from this sites method:
http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/

I find my method to be cheaper, easier, and safer for the plastics, at the cost of a little more time being needed to remove the yellow.

Offline
Minneapolis

One other thing to be noted: some people have asked me about disposal of the solution when you get done- it's safe to just water it down alot and pour down the drain, since the peroxide will have essentially all reacted off and you'll be left with soapy water (from the oxi-clean) with very trace amounts of bromine ions inside. I have this on very good authority from a chemical disposal expert who works with my sister.

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United Kingdom

Loving this tut wil give it a go in the summer with my white boy because it has gotten a case of the yellow 'virus' wink hehe

:L cheers for the tut ^_^

EDIT:

I have one question would this method remove the "NIntendo GAMEBOY" text on my gameboy?

Last edited by SAMWAVE (Apr 20, 2010 10:30 pm)

Offline
Minneapolis

No, it should not do so. In my experience this method does not affect decals or such. However, paper labels, stickers, and such will get some damage just from being wet.

This method, to be clear, is not a paint, dye, or bleach method. It's a special chemical reaction that removes only the bromine that makes the plastic yellow.

Last edited by arfink (Apr 20, 2010 10:50 pm)

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United Kingdom

Excellent smile thats cleared up everything for me ^_^

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San Luis Obispo, CA

Billy Mays would be proud of this tutorial. Think I'm going to try it out on my SNES.

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Plano, TX

I used this tutorial to clean up my white DMG, works great.

I still think mine needs another run though because it's still not crispy white.

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Minneapolis

Well, if you do another run, be sure and watch it closely. Prolonged exposure can do damage, because if there is no more bromine to liberate from the plastic then it'll start to "liberate" other important chemicals instead, producing a ghostly-white, almost translucent "bloom" and degrading the structural quality of the plastic. However, at only 3% concentration or less for the H2O2 there is little risk of this happening unless you're soaking it for many days at a time and replenishing the solution alot.

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New York City

I will have to chip in here.
You don't want that stuff reaching your clean hands, god forbid an eye. It will eat right through. Also, higher concentrations of hydrogen peroxide will not eat the plastic. That's what retrobright uses and there are no reports of plastic being eaten.

Anyway, I just wanted to say that this procedure is FUCKING DANGEROUS and you should pay attention.

Offline
Minneapolis

What?! 3% H2O2 is "F***ing dangerous?" I have got this on my hands before, no biggie. I mean, they use this stuff for cleaning cuts and sanitising hospitals, for crying out loud! Just wash 'em off afterwards before you eat things. it's true that higher concentrations of H2O2 don't "eat" the plastic- they "bloom" it, resulting in uneven blotches, un-reversible discoloration, and increased brittleness. I go with 3% because it's cheaper, safer for you and the plastic, and generally more available. Just takes more time.

EDIT: And yes, there are plenty of reports of high concentrations degrading the plastic. I'll provide links, but you have probably already seen them. And I'll even post a video of me pouring 3% H2O2 right on my hand to prove it's safe, if you insist. Because at that concentration it won't damage your skin. Now of course, getting crap in your eyes is a problem. But I am also assuming that unlike 8bc, people here will have some common sense and not hurt themselves with common household items.

Last edited by arfink (Apr 21, 2010 3:36 pm)

Offline
New York City
arfink wrote:

What?! 3% H2O2 is "F***ing dangerous?" I have got this on my hands before

Nope, the combination you dip the plastics in is dangerous.
It's been warned on every forum.
Now if you want to take responsibility for someone's problems, then be my guest wink
It's is common sense to apply extreme caution when dealing with chemical reactions.

Offline
Plano, TX

The combination above "seems" harmless, I've gotten it on my hands with no issues.

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Minneapolis

Umm, I even got the H2O2 and oxi-clean on my hand- nothing happened. I dunno, I haven't tried to bathe in it, and I'm also not using the Retro-Brite %30 method either. I got some on my hand and it just felt kinda like if you leave soap on your hands for a while... kinda, soapy.

Still, you're right. Someone will inevitably hurt himself with common household chemicals. Use your brains, kids! And I'm not responsible for damages, etc. etc. because this is a DIY tutorial and you should all know this by now. Thanks!

BTW, soldering irons are far more hazardous for your skin than this stuff, so also be careful with them because you'll get kinda crispy if you don't! XD

EDIT2: I just asked my sis, who is a chemist, why this could be considered dangerous. She informs that that chemical grade H2O2 of a high concentration is dangerous because it reacts easily with other things, but 3% H2O2 found at the store is very weak because of all the water mixed in, and as such you would need a very long exposure to it in order to be injured. So just use common sense and wash up after doing this, otherwise you may get itchy later. Seriously, that's all you have to do.

Last edited by arfink (Apr 21, 2010 3:46 pm)

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New York City

That clears it up, thank your sister for the informed education!
It's also good to know this works with regular hydrogen peroxide. Saves some troubles (and hazards, apparently)

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Minneapolis

Yes, I will thank her. My informed education is actually in philosophy, and hence I argue. big_smile

Yes, the 30% stuff is where it can begin to get nasty if you aren't careful.

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United Kingdom

EDIT:

dont worry

Last edited by SAMWAVE (Apr 25, 2010 7:03 pm)