arfink
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Minneapolis
12ianma wrote:
arfink wrote:

Oh, I have something much much better in mind.

like that stuff they use to laminate cellphoine screens to the digitizer?

Basically. It's called liquid optically clear adhesive, or LOCA, and from what I can tell, the OEMs making phones for Samsung and Apple use it because it covers a multitude of sins, like wavy or uneven glass. I thought about using LOCA with this as I was reading about the new Kindle Paperwhite frontlight. Someone did a teardown, and there was this thick sticky glue stuff on the frontlight that was able to fill in all the surface channels in the diffuser while remaining optically clear. This means no internal reflection to wash it out. Which is what people are having trouble with here, that's just some really extreme levels of internal reflection. I did some more reading, and it turns out I was right, they were using a UV-cured LOCA for that frontlight, which happens to be gorgeous.

I have no idea if LOCA would work on Kitsch's frontlights or not, or what possible challenges would come up from using it that way, but I figured it was worth mentioning. If nothing else, one could potentially bond the frontlight panel to some kind of smooth flat panel using LOCA to cut down on the glare while still retaining the redirection of the light from the frontlight.

Of course, I've also spent the evening fantasizing about using LOCA with a backlight for the MGB to bond it right onto the glass, that would be sooooo sick.

Last edited by arfink (Jan 26, 2014 5:19 am)

12ianma
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Most is just UV activated as well. You'd know within minutes. I thought about using it before to do the same with a backlight. But I am unsure it would matter much honestly. I'm sure it would help with the front light, I know some about optics and medium to air to medium will for sure cause some reflection/refraction. The idea here is that the constant of each medium is so close (if it's not air but it's clear) that it will refract a negligible amount

bitjacker
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Alive and well in fucksville

Ya know... the dmg i did turned out ok. for lsdj. samus disappers tho.

arfink
Offline
Minneapolis
12ianma wrote:

Most is just UV activated as well. You'd know within minutes. I thought about using it before to do the same with a backlight. But I am unsure it would matter much honestly. I'm sure it would help with the front light, I know some about optics and medium to air to medium will for sure cause some reflection/refraction. The idea here is that the constant of each medium is so close (if it's not air but it's clear) that it will refract a negligible amount

Well, I still would like to mess with it, if only because on modern smartphones it seems to be a night and day difference between not using it vs not using it.

katsumbhong
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Taichung, Taiwan

I messed around with using a potentiometer to dull down the light to see if it helps with the "washed out" effect in many different lighting conditions. At this point I have to say that it's the dimpled panel of the frontlight that is the culprit of the washing out more so than the strength of the LEDs.

Waiting to see if anyone tests any add-on products to the frontlight kit itself to see if that helps the situation.

Last edited by katsumbhong (Jan 26, 2014 8:05 pm)

bitjacker
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Alive and well in fucksville

Not so much so on a dmg! 67k seems perfect... any higher value resistor i have shuts it down or the light is too low. maybe not 67k, as i am illiterate to multimeter stuff. I am kind of learning as i go.

Last edited by bitjacker (Jan 26, 2014 10:16 pm)

bitjacker
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Alive and well in fucksville

Light will refract in a  mirage... how much heat can be generated above an lcd screen before its wrecked?

Last edited by bitjacker (Jan 26, 2014 10:19 pm)

katsumbhong
Offline
Taichung, Taiwan
bitjacker wrote:

Light will refract in a  mirage... how much heat can be generated above an lcd screen before its wrecked?

Is English your first language?

bitjacker
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Alive and well in fucksville

fucking troll.

katsumbhong
Offline
Taichung, Taiwan
bitjacker wrote:

fucking troll.

Me or you?

rygD
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Thank you both for giving feedback on using resistors.

Anonymouse
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I've bought 3 of these. I wish I read this first as I would have only bought one to test. Maybe try sticking an anti glare screen to dimple side to try to help diffuse the dimples. You could use one for an iPhone and cut it to size. I'll probably try this when I get home and try it oit

katsumbhong
Offline
Taichung, Taiwan
Anonymouse wrote:

I've bought 3 of these. I wish I read this first as I would have only bought one to test. Maybe try sticking an anti glare screen to dimple side to try to help diffuse the dimples. You could use one for an iPhone and cut it to size. I'll probably try this when I get home and try it oit

Can you report back with your findings once you have done some independent testing?

Anonymouse
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I'm on holiday at the moment, will be back in 3 weeks so I'll have a go then. I'd imagine that it won't be much better if any, but it is worth a try

Koji-Kendo
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Hello, I am the developer of the "101 mod" CGB front-light method. I have a tutorial in the works. Please stand-by. Until then, here is the link to my portfolio.: http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/Koji_ … amp;page=1

Last edited by Koji-Kendo (May 10, 2014 9:22 pm)

Robin1999
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I dont trust the pictures. would contrast make it easier to see. is it the same texture on both sides. could i see the screen easier with a 47 ohm resistor