Apeshit wrote:

That's connected to regulated 5v source. Connecting to the unregulated power source is not bad for the console, it bypasses everything. Putting strain on the regulator with the high current draw from an EMS cart and a backlight is damaging to the console.

Ah damn, thank you for pointing this out! I'm a bit noob on all these different solder points, which ones are considered the best to drive my nonelectronics V5 without having to add resistors etc. ?

Apeshit suggests running the backlight unregulated directly from the battery terminals - I'd go with that.

edit - rereading it all, I would run it over the power led, no need then for running wires between the boards.

Last edited by irony7 (April 17, 2017 6:52 pm)

I should rephrase that... Connecting directly to the battery terminals won't turn off the backlight when you switch off the gameboy. So yeah, power LED source is a good place to tap into.

Apeshit wrote:

I should rephrase that... Connecting directly to the battery terminals won't turn off the backlight when you switch off the gameboy. So yeah, power LED source is a good place to tap into.

Haha,  good point!!

Can anybody point out the power LED solder points to use to avoid the heating up problem? I'm not 100% sure on what ones are correct, and it'd be good to sort out a few of my DMGs that get pretty hot before I fry anything. (!)

Last edited by unexpectedbowtie (May 16, 2017 11:06 pm)

Answer coming after workday is finished.

irony7 wrote:

Answer coming after workday is finished.

Thanks a lot!

thats dem fire beats

unexpectedbowtie wrote:

Can anybody point out the power LED solder points to use to avoid the heating up problem? I'm not 100% sure on what ones are correct, and it'd be good to sort out a few of my DMGs that get pretty hot before I fry anything. (!)

Hey, I'm sorry to bump this. But did you get an answer on which points to use?
I'm enjoying some time off to look over my trusty old DMG.

catskull wrote:

If you do use unregulated power, just be aware that the backlight brightness will go down as your batteries die. That may or may not be an issue for you. We used to desolder the power indicator LED for the backlight, but we switched to the regulated power source.

BennVenn claims to have a drop in replacement power regulator ready to go. So it's possible that you could simply upgrade your regulator if/when he finishes it. Until then, yeah I'd probably go with the unregulated power.

I also have some questions for you catskull, would you mind sharing the 'regulated' points of the DMG you switched to ?
Also, do you have any news regarding that replacement regulator board you were talking about? I was just thinking, could I maybe just replace some capacitors on the regulator board with some caps with higher capacitance to lower the heat coming from the regulator board and reduce the stress on the DMG hardware?

CarrieStronggrog wrote:
unexpectedbowtie wrote:

Can anybody point out the power LED solder points to use to avoid the heating up problem? I'm not 100% sure on what ones are correct, and it'd be good to sort out a few of my DMGs that get pretty hot before I fry anything. (!)

Hey, I'm sorry to bump this. But did you get an answer on which points to use?
I'm enjoying some time off to look over my trusty old DMG.

I didn't... but I spoke to BennVenn about this, and he didn't seem to think this would work anyway, so I've given up for now!

I'll post a picture of where you can get your unregulated power when I get home this evening.

Easiest place to get unregulated power is at the connections to the power board.

This requires running wires between the main board and the LCD screen board, please note.

I use an extra power regulator board (5v step up/step down from Pololu)in connection with the unregulated power to keep the voltage to the backlight steady. The rgb screens I've tested use about 200mA when all channels are activated, so a 400mA board should be enough, even if choosing to add button lights and running them through the extra power board.