water clear is cool if you want a flashlight aiming at your face while you use the gameboy
Maybe with a super bright LED. The stock LED is clear.
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ChipMusic.org / Forums / Posts by Apeshit
water clear is cool if you want a flashlight aiming at your face while you use the gameboy
Maybe with a super bright LED. The stock LED is clear.
Diffused is pretty typical for power indicator applications.
This is worth taking a look through: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=di p;_sacat=0
DO NOT cut any traces!!! When the board is activated it overrides the stock crystal so there is no reason to remove it or cut any traces.
You see those 3 tiny pins at the top left of your picture of the module? You need to connect the middle pin to the ground pad with either a wire or excess solder like this:Honestly I really dislike the new version of these kits. They seem really unstable even when installed properly. I had people returning their custom Game Boys from me because these kits would just stop working. I started making my own by hand. I'll have my own model based around the LTC1799CS5 IC soon on a professionally made PCB. It will have a low limiter so that you can manually adjust how low the kit will go when you turn the main pot.
I know this is an old thread, but I'm really curious about this. You can have a stable switching circuit by exploiting "lazy" electricity by prioritizing resistance, but in this instance, is this something that anyone has taken the time to research and verify to be stable? I'm not seeing how connecting two crystals in parallel could be a good idea.
Just curious since you seem confident to skip this step, which from what I remember, is a step from getlofi's tutorial. This should explain why the kit is unstable.
Corrosion will eat through the copper traces. Sounds like you need to clean your battery contacts, add a few wire jumpers and remove the corrosion.
This should help a bit: http://chipmusic.org/forums/topic/6324/ ing-guide/
If you're using the DIP chips, you could always just do a "dead bug" style circuit, or do it on a breadboard.
I put together a mockup of an internal arduinoboy board. This is an example of how small it can get. Using a different IC package and removing the programming headers, it could be even smaller.
If you deem the mod necessary, I suggest not using the arduinoboy kit that you're currently using and just fit the entire MMC PCB into the DMG. The arduinoboy circuit is very minimal and can be much smaller than that. Where as sizing down and reverse engineering the PCB could cost you weeks of work.
The question isn't whether ground is present or not in the circuit, but if there's an advantage to using the potentiometer's ground.
You may be aware that ground connections in circuits aren't always universal. "Ground" lines can have have different functions and should remain independent (i.e. analog ground/digital ground). But that isn't the case here. In theory, you may have better results with the potentiometer's ground, as the ground points among the board are at slightly different potentials. With that said, I doubt you'll notice any difference between the two.
The power supply is generating a negative voltage, about -19V, for the LCD. The lead on the ribbon cable that carries this voltage, is right next to one of the lines that has to do with reading the joypad. If you disconnect or connect the ribbon cable while the power is on, these two may short and permanently destroy one of the button inputs on the CPU. When this happens, left and B stop working at the same time.
Any other mods on the unit? Also, who modded it?
WHERE THE FUCK DO I GET ONE OF THESE? and who's used it with LSDJ/nanoloop?
I've been considering selling it. Mine has all the boxes and games too.
That auction was pretty reassuring of it's value.
-I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to get the Mega Memory Card in there, so I was thinking I would just build a custom PCB with the Mega Memory Card components (without the cart connector of course), instead of modifying the original PCB. I don't have any experience with removing CPU's from PCB's but I've read that they can be removed with a heat gun, has anyone tried that? I thought after I removed those, I would used a conductive ink pen to draw the traces on the custom pcb, and then cut it to fit in the DMG. Would that be more trouble than it's worth?
I may be missing something here, but I don't see how this will work. How will you solder to conductive ink? Even with custom etching, hand drawing PCBs is insanely finicky and difficult. Especially with SMT stuff.
Can you post a picture of the original PCB? I've never seen one. Might be able to give some suggestions.
They're very similar but the NES ones are a bit too thick.
There's a lot with different printing like the Manchester one. That one is probably most common out of those types.
Here's one of mine. I also have one that was made for the gameboy commercials and had huge "GAMEBOY" text on it without "Nintendo" printed. Unfortunately the text is completely gone, but you can still see the faded mark. Must have been a different printing method. That's probably the rarest type out there.
They fit with no modifications.
Hence why I've had these made: http://asmretro.com/nes-button-set
International shipping should be no more than $5.00.
I could do with some extra cables. Could maybe even just work out a trade? Feel free to shoot me an email at my gmail (apeshitmods), or a PM if you want to discuss this further.
One of these? http://asmretro.com/accessories/ps-2-adapter
I can make you one. They're out of stock in the shop because they're such a pain to make, but I've got some spare time.
ChipMusic.org / Forums / Posts by Apeshit