(4 replies, posted in Trading Post)

I can send you my PCB design for an LTC1799 based kit if you're comfortable soldering SMT components. You can order the PCBs from OSH Park for super cheap, probably around 2 euros with free international shipping.

That's a no-go on the pro sound. Would you care to show a photo of the LCD? I'm curious if it was properly biverted.

Are you reusing the headphone jack, or adding an additional 1/8" jack? If you're adding one, you don't need to remove components. You will sever the headphone connection if you do.

Speaking of, why do people call it "internal" prosound? Both jacks are internal.


(486 replies, posted in Trading Post)

egr wrote:


Edit: is that fightercart discount for those of us that bought the first run Altace still available?

Sure thing. I'll play around with the discount system shortly.


(486 replies, posted in Trading Post)

We’re finally back!

After our collaboration with http://www.retromodding.com, we have invested all of our energy into getting ALTANE and new cartridges on the market.

You can find the standard grey edition of ALTANE here. Software updates to follow shortly.


We’ve got a new homebrew release! You can presently purchase our Flappy Bird clone at the shop. https://gameboylife.com/products/flappy-bird

Heebie-GBs! We are producing a second halloween music compilation cartridge for 2017. We are still accepting new applicants! For more information, please view the following thread: http://chipmusic.org/forums/topic/19581 … roll-call/

The final FIGHTERCART is finally available! Previously we sold some “prototype” FIGHTERCART cartridges without the gold plating, but this is now the final version. There is an extremely limited quantity of these, so do not hesitate!

Be vigilant,


Label mockup!

Will get back to the new applicants shortly!

Any reason you can't just use a "normally on" switch?

As we gear up for our website launch, we have been working on new potential hardware for Heebie 2 and are soon to announce the new label design!

We are still accepting applicants, and will be pushing the deadline back as well. Once we have the website launched, we will begin promoting the release full-force and will have a more definitive deadline.

We're off to a good start. I've got in touch with all the accepted applicants.

I've stocked up on the more difficult to source parts required to make this happen, so we're going into this comfortably. Along with the end of drag'n'derp production, I've decided to retire our clear black game pak shells, so we will be producing this batch with a new color.

Added a box of screen covers.

These exact screen covers will never be made again because the supplier doesn't exist anymore. There's many chrome and silver (reflective) screen covers in here, some prototypes, some with a bit of damage, but otherwise a lot of good screen covers. $100 for the lot. Less than a dollar a piece, and around $300 less than retail cost.


(10 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I never said they shouldn't use a PCB. It's just mounted in a bad spot. Of course it will work, but it's bad practice to mount components under such a vulnerable spot. You could effectively use up half the space and still mount it on the back of the PCB.


(10 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

irony7 wrote:

I will do it,  Apeshit!  Tried to reflow the solder through the the holes to ensure contact with the pads underneath, but that is a definite possible culprit.

Just keep them well trimmed, since that kit is mounted right under the ribbon cable carrying the high voltage for the LCD.

These kits really should be designed to be mounted on the back of the PCB...


(10 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Does the installation really not call for pins to be put through the pads? That's super janky. It's probably just not making full contact. Try adding a metal lead through the pads. Clip one off of a resistor or LED or something.

Haven't had an opportunity to reply to those that reached out just yet, but so far everything sounds great. I'll be getting in contact soon. Thanks!

I should rephrase that... Connecting directly to the battery terminals won't turn off the backlight when you switch off the gameboy. So yeah, power LED source is a good place to tap into.

irony7 wrote:

What about running an extra regulator (buck/boost 5v dc-dc) parallel to the stock regulatorer to power the backlight?  Could that work to relieve the stock regulator from overheating?

If you mean regulating directly from the battery terminals, yes. It's not even really needed to be honest. Backlights are plenty bright, and people connected them to the power LED source for years without any serious issues.