1

(1 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Sounds like the bug in the DMG's CPU. What board revision is your DMG? DMG-02/03? Will say on the bottom of the back of the motherboard, visible through the battery compartment.

egr wrote:
Ahow77 wrote:

Ah OK, good to know, is there a brand and/or model you would recommend?

I use an Altane but they aren't available anymore (maybe coming back?). I recommend looking into bennvenn's flashers but I think he's currently sold out as well.

Edit - looks like Altane is available afterall https://www.retromodding.com/products/altane

Still available at our shop too, though Retro Modding will have faster shipping. http://asmgames.com

Ntnd.fn wrote:
Apeshit wrote:

The jack shorts out the ground and "switch" pin when it is in circuit. When you remove it, you reopen that connection and need to close it again on the motherboard if you remove the headphone board.

So my question should be: How do i close “that connection” on the motherboard?
Could you please explain to me how do to do that?

It's been explained several times in this thread, but maybe a photo reference will help.

Ntnd.fn wrote:
Orgia Mode wrote:

See Kitsch's or Alley Beach's replay above.

But I don’t have the headphone’s board anymore, so I can turn the on/off. I guess that I need another solution, if there’s one.

The jack shorts out the ground and "switch" pin when it is in circuit. When you remove it, you reopen that connection and need to close it again on the motherboard if you remove the headphone board.

This is typically how the pro sound mod is done. You can alternatively add a DPDT switch to make the headphone jack toggle between prosound and the amplified output.

For how simple and effective the prosound mod is, it becomes impractical and unnecessary to recreate the amp circuit. It's been done, but I don't think the primary intention was to remove noise.

Retro Modding has EMS cartridges which they pre-flash with LSDJ upon proof of license: https://www.retromodding.com/products/g … smart-card

The EZ Flash junior is also worth looking into. I haven't tried it, but the specs suggest LSDj would work.
https://www.retromodding.com/collection … ash-junior

7

(6 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

If the problem is the soldering, simply adding more solder could potentially offer a permanent fix. I have some tools to diagnose which address line the cartridges are failing at if a visual inspection isn't enough.

If you have an external cartridge programmer, I'd also check to verify that it isn't the programmer circuit that failed in the bleepbloop.

If you'd like me to have a look, I'd be happy to diagnose the issues at no charge.

8

(6 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

These cartridges are notorious for cold solder joints. It could be due to the fact that the components are pulled from genuine parts with lead solder, and then re-soldered with lead-free solder.

Some of these also did not opt for ENIG plating, so the cartridge connector is plated with solder, and it oxidizes very fast. I have some cartridges like this, and I can get them working temporarily by blowing on them, because of the moisture. This isn't generally advisable, but it would at least help diagnose the problem.

I'd be willing to repair them for you. Or I could trade you some working Fightercarts, or maybe an ALTANE.

Can I see a picture of how you're wiring this? I don't know exactly what you're circuit bending, but there should be a regulated power source, and you should be soldering the LED to that with the appropriate resistor. Keep in mind that a single LED with the incorrect value resistor is capable of drawing enough power to cause things like audio failure, or worse.

.

dmgpage wrote:

I have not received my cartridge yet. I'm just assuming that not all have been sent for now, right?

The email you used for your order can not accept incoming mail. Your order was shipped with the second wave and is still in transit. If you reach out with a valid email, I'll send over your tracking info.

Bought! Great work.

alfonsg00 wrote:
Orgia Mode wrote:

This is the power board:
https://gbhwdb.gekkio.fi/static/dmg/GM1 … d_back.jpg

Did you say the LCD "does" or doesn't" work on another gameboy.

I took the lcd board from a working gameboy and plugged it into my faulty unit. And then it worked. So the problem seems to be in the lcd board?

Yes - It could be the white ribbon cable that connects the two boards, the brown ribbon cable under the LCD, or possibly a broken contrast wheel. You can try pouring a bit of rubbing alcohol into the contrast wheel and turning it rapidly to see if it fixes the issue, but it is most likely the ribbon cables.

catskull wrote:

prices are displayed in CAD not USD

Fixed.

All placed orders in CAD will still be honored at the lower price.

We're live! http://asmgames.com

I recently encountered a DMG in this state, and I replaced the power regulator board from a different DMG and it fixed the issue.