Long time no see!

retromodding.com has been receiving requests for our PCB Mount Pro Sound kits, so I've gone ahead and designed a brand new v3 model for them.

https://www.retromodding.com/collection … 5313432599

The 2018 design of the PCB Mount Pro Sound kit from ASM features a through hole plated jack offering enhanced durability from the previous model, while also offering a professional look while increasing the space within the gameboy for other modifications.

While a typical prosound mod will screw onto the shell, this kit allows for easy disassembly of the gameboy and increased longevity of the modification.

A major downfall of the typical prosound assembly is the inability to tighten the nut post-installation. If the nut becomes loose, attempting to tighten it will result in the 3.5mm jack spinning internally, thus breaking the connections.

The PCB Mount Pro Sound V3 utilizes the original headphone jack, which is not included with the kit. The DMG's headphone jack features a proprietary switch for turning off the speaker as well as mounting posts to secure it to the case, so it must be removed from the original headphone board to be used with the kit.

momeedees wrote:

edit:
applying pressure (brown ribbon), gently wiggling around (white ribbon) brings not change at all, not even slight hints.

To clarify, you put pressure on the soldered connections, underneath (not below) the LCD?

edit: I really need to read the thread before replying.

What did you reflow to get this working exactly?

If the brown cable is damaged, you will have no lines at all, yes.

edit: As in, you will have no readable lines.

Was the DMG modded? I've seen this occur often when people disassemble DMGs or backlight them. There's an adhesive piece that holds the LCD to the plastic shell, usually it's dried up by now and doesn't cause issues. But sometimes when removing the front PCB, the LCD hangs onto the shell and the *soldered* connections on the brown ribbon cable, underneath the LCD, get torn. This causes a physical tear that can not be fixed, but can sometimes be remedied with solder.

Not sure if that's your issue, but I'd suggest gently lifting the LCD and inspecting those connections. Or apply gentle pressure to the connections while the gameboy is running and see if you see the LCD flicker on.

37

(11 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

killedatschool wrote:

Or the secondary regulator board like urbster suggested.

Yes. Add a second regulator and connect it to the LED source. It's not necessarily needed, though. People connected backlights to the battery power source for years without complaints.

38

(11 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

killedatschool wrote:

I don’t tap directly to LED though but instead to its resistor by the lcd frame?

Exactly. Tap in before that resistor at the top.

killedatschool wrote:

Now for the one with yellow backlight. It overheats ( gets pretty warm but not hot ) just by running lsdj. I am using an EMS cart and I understand it can cause power draw.

Sounds like the same issue. EMS carts draw a fair bit of extra power. At this point I think backlights should be connected to the battery source as standard practice.

39

(11 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

All the ASM backlights have built in resistors.

How is your arduinoboy powered? If it's powered by the link port, then that's the extra power draw that is causing the trouble.

What I'd recommend is simply connecting to the battery power source on your front PCB. This will completely bypass the regulator and not cause any excess draw. Basically you're going to want to solder to the connection to the red power LED for this. I would recommend adding your 30 ohm resistor if you go ahead with this method.

It's not really best practice, but arduinoboys are typically powered through the link port.

Why not use a SGB2 with an external arduinoboy? This sounds like a lot of extra trouble and expense for no real benefit.

Replace your batteries. You would've drained them by shorting them out.

You could replace the board, but your current board should be fine. It sounds to me like there's a short where the wires connect to the board.

It's got to be from relocating the power regulator board. It sounds like you shorted out the terminals. Use a continuity tester before trying the batteries again.

44

(4 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

It's supported.

There's some more information here as well. I'll poke nitro to add a support list directly to the page.

45

(1 replies, posted in Trading Post)

i've got the original one in the grey shell. what are you offering?

46

(14 replies, posted in Trading Post)

Open up a paypal dispute as soon as possible. People have been having issues with Transformer for the last decade. He doesn't have a history of cooperating even if you can reach him.

The current plan is to release the cartridge whenever it is ready. Certain elements such as creating a custom mapper pushed the release back.

With that said, we have room for 1-2 more submissions if anyone else wants to take part!

spOOked wrote:

Im still intrested in a new fighter cart. Since i had the old one and it doesnt work anymore. You still have any left?

Have we discussed this before? There was only 2-3 of the old model in the wild. I'll happily fix 'er up for you with a fresh board.