785

(24 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Nah, they're not genuine. Aside from the poorly placed label, they have epoxy mounted chips (as seen in the first post) and completely different hardware than authentic carts. Also no Nintendo logos on the PCB and a philips head screw instead of a security screw.

786

(24 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

It actually came with two boxed pokemon games. Both are in Japanese, so I can't test how well they work too easily.

One cartridge shell is warped. They both say "Nintendo Gameboy" on them which is somewhat uncommon for a pirate. (keyword: somewhat). The two pieces of the shell are different colors, which is neat. The front is a blue-ish purple, and the back is grey, and vice versa on the other one.

787

(24 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I didn't say it was for sale.

788

(24 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I would happily do some tests, but believe it or not, I don't have any working flash carts.

As for pictures of the inside- I may crack it open later. I opened up a GBA clone once and the ribbon cable for the LCD broke after a very careful and gentle removal, and I don't suspect the materials used in this are very high quality.

789

(24 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Not much information or even photos available with these things, so I thought I'd share mine.

It plays real gameboy games. Emulation is alright. The sound isn't great, but it's okay.

The main problem is the clock speed, it's too fast. But other than that, it works quite well.

It'd be wise to stop putting the official nintendo seal on the labels as well. Those are clearly custom made labels, so this is really unnecessary and perhaps even more illegal than anything else you have done here.

If I remember correctly, the guy spent $3700 (edit: $2700. Thanks Kitsch) on that cart and did us all a favor by releasing the rom for free.  While other people who have rare prototypes either don't release them, or sell their own reproductions to try to make the investment back.

I just did some searching, and he requested that all the profit from sales be donated to Red Cross. Not some, but all of the profit.

You should probably just stop selling them, since you couldn't even humble yourself to donate a portion of those NTRQ sales to cancer research upon Neil's wishes.

I like the "spotty boy" and the "trippy boy".

You appear to make quality reproductions as well. But I have to ask, did you get permission to sell reproductions of bio force ape? I know the guy that dumped it said he didn't want anyone making reproductions for profit.

Here's my opinion on a few things.

hotmessization wrote:

Use a solder station with temp control. Don't don't don't use those shitty irons that plug right in the wall. Even some higher-end models plug right in the wall, but I can't trust them.

You can get by quite easily with a single watt iron for gameboy modding. Mine is variable wattage, but I can't say I change it much unless I'm soldering to the battery terminals or to the grounding tabs.

hotmessization wrote:

Stop using thick solder. This, I think, is the number one reason for sloppy soldering. Honestly, when it comes to soldering, less is more. With thinner solder, you have much more control and are less likely to fuck up.

I wouldn't say this is the number one reason for sloppy soldering. The number one reason has to just be inexperience. You can have a $1000 soldering iron, and have cold solder joints if you don't know how to use it. Some people don't take a couple minutes to google "how to solder" and know that you're not supposed to just gunk up solder on the tip and carry it over to where you're soldering. You'd be surprised how many people do this. Openly in tutorial videos, I might add.

hotmessization wrote:

Stop using solid core wire. SHOULD I EVEN HAVE TO SAY THIS? I kid you not, I have received Game Boys with solid wire on the mods. If you can't guess, the wire broke off the jack almost immediately upon my inspection.

I know many experienced modders that use solidcore wire in their mods. Benheck (who I've often heard referred to as the "king of modding") uses it for his portables. NeX uses it for his internal MIDI mods, and that's just a couple examples.

Again, this isn't so much about what you're using, but how you use it. If you use solidcore wire and properly secure the connections with shrink tubing, you could have a mod that lasts a lifetime. Granted, it is better to use stranded wire and I always do, but that doesn't mean you can't make a quality mod with solidcore wire.

This thread got a little off topic. Maybe we should make a new thread and compile a list of avoidable modding mistakes.

Lavar wrote:
kineticturtle wrote:

This has not been my experience.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmE3ztwCvcg this video says it's easy to install without cutting

I'm sure you can get away with not cutting it, but not without crushing the wires and have the panel and LCD not sit flush.

So that's got to just be an oversight.

.

796

(12 replies, posted in Tutorials, Mods & How-To's)

herr_prof wrote:

Its just to me, 1/4 and rca jacks are aesthetically pretty ugly... Plus I'd rather the cable just fall out of the jack rather than make a big lever against the chassis, just seems really impractical to me.

Thanks for the tutorial, didnt mean to start a thing.

I encourage people to share alternatives to these kind of mods. Criticism can be a good thing.

It's really just comes down to personal preference. Some people like the huge eyesore if not just for conversation starting purposes. May be gimmicky, but that's okay- it's for chiptune.

797

(12 replies, posted in Tutorials, Mods & How-To's)

Of course it's easier. In the same way not modding your gameboy at all is easier.

A lot of recording gear, PA systems, and other professional audio gear only operate with 1/4", RCA and XLR. 3.5mm jacks are for conserving space and aren't very durable. It fits in the DMG more than comfortably and the plastic can handle it just fine.

To compare:

VS the mod:

I don't know about you, but if I was playing a gig, I certainly wouldn't dare using an adapter if I was using 1/4" cables.

798

(12 replies, posted in Tutorials, Mods & How-To's)

This should be informative enough for a beginner, but it's a relatively tricky mod. Use the proper tools, and be patient. I've seen many people struggle with this mod.

It mainly applies to the 1/4" pro sound kits we will soon be carrying, but is the same general idea for other 1/4" jacks, if you don't want to buy the kit.

http://www.asmelectronics.org/2011/11/1 … orial.html

To those reading this thread months/years from now: Broken link? Try going directly to asmelectronics.org and going to the "tutorials" section. If my website URL has for some reason changed since then, go to my profile to find the new one.

Cheers!

Thanks for all the references and compliments, guys.

I have a large stock of triforce/ledx3 backlights because I'm co-creator of them. I also use my PCB Mount Pro Sound kit instead of panel mount pro sound.

My gmail is apeshitmods if you want to see more of my past work.

I guess I should probably add my website URL as well: http://asmelectronics.org

Those start/select buttons are niiice...

...Kitsch, where are my samples? tongue

justinthursday wrote:

The polarizer, like I said is built in. While this saves time and makes everything cleaner it would be nice to be able to change it. But this will be fine for people who may only be buying one at a time knowing exactly what they want out of it.
It also seems like you may be able to peel it off yourself and replace it if you really wanted to(wouldn't recommend it though).

Peeling it off won't harm the panel if you absolutely need to remove it.

2x2" polarized film is too big, and the old style that Kitsch used is a good shape/size, but you can't change the inversion post-purchase. So really nothing has changed, there's just a little bit of adhesive keeping the polarized film on this time.