113

(19 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

I think I have one etched board of my first design somewhere, though it's probably not very good as the first NESA board design was also my first attempt at home etching.

For my newest design, I had the board fabbed with DorkBot and moved most components to SMD. Here is a quick pick of it I threw up on my band's Facebook page.

Dorkbot does boards in groups of 3 so assuming I don't mess up too many times, I should have a spare or two. If you want it, you're welcome to one. Just pay shipping if you don't mind, assuming it's over a few bucks (such as if I need to ship international or something). I'll be out of town next week and I'd rather make sure the design works before giving it out so it may be a little while before I'll be able to ship it out, but otherwise let me know if you'd like one!

As far as the passive mixer, that would have been a really good idea! I think Kitsch mentioned that to me a while ago but for this round I was concentrated on saving space over adding features. A passive mixer wouldn't be very tricky, and in fact would be a pretty good use of the op-amp (to help boost the attenuated signals from the passive mix).  I've added a note on my schematic to add that for the next revision, depending on how this new design works out.

P.S. Kitsch and I have been passing ideas back and forth about this design so he may or may not be working on one of his own, which will probably be pretty awesome so if you're not in any hurry, you might want to see what he comes up with!

114

(19 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

For what it's worth, I went with an op-amp style (Cmoy-inspired) solution. First attempt was using a home-made board but I have now made an SMD version that is a good deal smaller. I like using an op-amp because it would sacrifice itself before you end up doing any damage to your CPU itself (say due to static from plugging in an audio jack or something).

The downside is that it needs power. My first design required a separate power brick but I found a low voltage op-amp from Texas Instruments (Burr-Brown) that can be fed with low enough voltage that I can just use one power brick into the NES and tap off those inputs. That requires using a DC power brick though (the original NES power brick is AC), but a nice clean linear regulated power brick should work just fine, if not better, than the original power brick anyway.

You can see my first attempt here:

http://www.moocowproductions.org/nesa/

Still waiting on parts for my new board so I can't claim success for it just yet.

Hey nitro2k01! Sorry I never saw your update when I last posted and have been away for a week. I ended up just moving the pro-sound mod to my GameBoy that is much more quiet. The noise appears to have nothing to do with the backlight mod but something on the LCD board itself and was constant (Pro-Sound, headphone, power-save or not, always the same high pitched noise at the same volume) which is why I think replacing other components apart from the caps might help.

My good GameBoy sounds great with the only downsides being that it is not backlit and the LCD screen itself looks a bit off-center with the Chipmusic in Stereo cover for some reason. I used it all last week and it works like a champ so I'm going to call it good for now. I'd still like to see if I can fix the sound issues on my other GB at some point, but for now I have a functional solution at least.

I finally broke down and tried disconnecting the backlight LEDs, but it didn't appear to make a difference. I suppose the next thing to try is swapping out components other than capacitors (I've already replaced all of the electrolytics), such as Q1?

I played around with it a bit more this evening. I removed the speaker since part of the annoyance was sound coming from it. This allowed me to compare the normal headphone out with Pro-Sound and I ended up discovering something odd.

When LSDJ is idle I cannot hear any noise from the Pro-Sound but I can hear it from the headphone out. If I start playing something on LSDJ, I can hear it from both outputs. So I'm not sure how the Pro-Sound is so quiet when nothing is playing when the headphone out isn't, but that they both exhibit the unwanted noise when I am playing something.

I used Kirby's Dreamland to test things as well and if I pause the game (no music), I can hear noise on both Pro-Sound and the headphone out.

I'm nowhere near solving the mystery but at least the noise isn't as bad as it was.

Wow well the problem instantly went away as soon as I blanked the screen in mGB. Sounds like awesome now. But since the LEDs are still active, that means there's less of a chance it's the LEDs, or is it?

As in, now that I know screen blanking works...it doesn't seem like there is much I can do about that?

EDIT: At least until I start using mGB wink Which still requires I finish up my ArduinoBoy (it's taking a break right now whilst I work on my MidiBox stuff)

I haven't yet had a chance to test this but my inkling is that it might be due to the backlight since the Pro-Sound mod is attached to the mainboard (and switching out the LCD boards alleviates the issue even with the mod). That would be a bummer though since I don't know what options I would have available to get power to the LEDs - using the battery terminals should give me clean power, although I wonder if I need a different resistance value since that is unregulated?

So I tried changing the contrast and the ROM. The contrast only helped very marginally. The ROM also didn't change the high pitched noise in any of the screen configurations that it cycles through. The patterned screen does create more noise than the others, but it sounds more like an addition to high pitched noise itself. I will try removing the Pro Sound mod today but will have to wait until this afternoon most likely.

I tried the ROM on my other GB as well and you can faintly hear a high pitched whine on what I think is the patterned screen. I can't tell because I have to put my ear right next to the speaker and can't see the screen smile Otherwise the normal noise from my good GB is basically constant (mostly some hiss and a faint buzz).

I am still banking on interference being the potential cause, though.

Oh wow thanks for all that! I'll give this ROM a go ASAP!

Interference sounds very plausible and my next objective was to remove my Pro-Sound mod to see if that changes things. I'll tackle both of these today. I have to fix my LCD configuration anyway since I accidentally moved around the backlight while replacing all those caps under the LCD cabling hmm

The good news is that my travel headphone amp appears to attenuate the high pitches noises to the point it almost becomes bearable, so if I can't fix things completely, that may be an option for now while I'm composing. I'm not sure exactly how it's doing that (other than it having a hi pass filter on it) unless it's a grounding issue there as well.

122

(17 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

For what it's worth, I went ahead and gave one of my DMG-001's (the noisest one) a cap kit and, to my surprise, it didn't seem to improve things music. That said, I listened to your recording and I don't hear anything abnormal except that noisy bit right before the square. I think that might not be much to worry about.

By contrast, my GameBoy emits a high pitched whine that is independent of the volume knob and it drives me nuts! My other DMG has that same high pitched noise but it's much much quieter. It's a bummer since that's also my GB with the backlight mod.

In any case, I would try yours out with LSDJ, which has an option to control power save mode and can give you a better idea of how noisy things are. In lieu of that, if you have a game that has spare music or music at a lower volume, you can better judge things.

I seem to be having an awful time attenuating some high pitched noise on one of my DMG-001's. I can hear it on all outputs - it is loudest on the speaker, followed by the headphone out, followed by the Pro-Sound but it's loud enough to be distracting on all of them. Changing the volume knob doesn't help - the noise is constant. The only time there is no noise is right after the "Nintendo" screen when it first loads the ROM. Other than that, music or no music, it's there. I tried giving it a cap kit today and while it may have helped a bit, it didn't solve the problem.

I have another DMG-CPU-06 that fares much better. It does have a high pitched noise but is not near as pronounced. So I tried mixing and matching and determined that much of the problem lies with the LCD board. The one causing me more problems does have an LED backlit mod - could that potentially have something to do with it?

Otherwise it has me a bit baffled...anyone else run into this with some suggestions on what to do?

124

(17 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I would grab a cap-kit from Kitsch and give that a try. I have one ready to go for one of my GameBoy's but haven't sat down and done it just yet since I have another GameBoy I use for recording anyway. Between those two, the difference is massive. The bad one has a really annoying high pitched whine that is difficult to fix in post, whereas the other sounds like silk. Well, ok, it too has a very very slight whine but it seems to be at a different pitch and seems to be basically inaudible when I record it after EQing.

+1 that looks awesome! Nice job, gents!

We've been hard at work on our album and have finished 3 more songs (Symphony of Vengeance, Level Grindin', and Mr. Transistor). All of them feature the 2A03 handling a majority of the chip-synth action with the GameBoy making a cameo of sorts in Level Grindin' and Mr. Transistor.

Hope you guys enjoy them! Big thanks to Thursday Customs for helping us out with modding our DMG-001. He did a great job so check him out if you need some help with some modding action!

http://soundcloud.com/victim-cache/sets … ipeline-1/

I have a decent one though I would love one of those heated pumps. RatShack has one for a decent price that might work well. The solder sucker generally works well for most stuff, although the last time I worked on a DMG was on the speaker and I had trouble getting all the metal bits out of the holes.

Yeah actually mine just came in the mail smile I was a bit nervous about replacing some of them due to the way they are mounted. Soldering the new ones is cake - it's getting the old ones out I'm slightly apprehensive about.