Any potential for versions with an SD or Micro SD card storage, like most DS flashcarts?

This looks awesome.

Everything is wired up. Everything works except sound... Which is the main reason I have for modding it. I want to compose music.

@kineticturtle: I keep the iron tinned but it just doesn't seem to react as well as in videos I've seen, so I have been applying too much heat, it seems. I hope this is fixable without getting a new Game Boy.

@Krubbz: I decided to not do that all together, because I didn't have an ON-ON switch. I only have ON-OFF switches. But, I have an untested theory that maybe the crystal oscillators need to have electricity going through them in the right direction for them to work. Of course, I know nothing about electronics, but yeah.

If anyone can further help me, I do highly appreciate it smile Hopefully I can get this working properly once and for all. It's slightly discouraging!...

@2PLAYER: The only thing is there appears to be (not visually, I mean audio-wise) lots of static when it's turned all the way downwards (as in turning it towards you if you were to hold it normally. I can't remember if this is volume up or down).

@kineticturtle: Yep, and, um, the iron is 30w, and sometimes I hold it there for a bit... It makes sense that this could have damaged the parts around there at the 3 points you're required to solder to for the prosound mod. I held it there for a bit on other hard-to-solder parts too, but that didn't seem to affect anything...

Everything is wired up. Still no sound. sigh. Could I have destroyed only the sound part by static?

Thanks again, and, no no, the glitchy sound surges happen REGARDLESS of weather the pitch mod is on or not. It's just, when the pitch mod IS on, the frequency of the general static changes. So it's all static either way, otherwise it would be obvious that it is the pitch mod at fault. So I'm still kinda lost with that... (Unless you still disagree? I'll try desoldering the 3 points on the board and see if there's sound.)

I've decided to just not add the Half Speed crystal oscillator (in the near future anyway) because I don't have a changeover switch right now and it was the least needed/wanted feature (since I have a potentiometer). So anyway, The potentiometer switch functions correctly now. BUT. Now there is NO SOUND whatsoever! All I get is static that changes pitch with the potentiometer, and where there's meant to be sound on a game, I get infrequent little static surges through the earphones. What did I do? What could be the problem? hmm Aside from this, all that's left is fixing the prosound mod, and then soldering the 2 wires coming out of the previously installed backlight. I guess it does pay off to have some half finished mods tongue

Further prosound info: I'm pretty sure there are no solder bridges. You see, the reason I think I may have accidentally severed one of the leads is because I was scraping around with a small sharp blade to get rid of any potential solder bridges... Also, I guess first thing is to get some sound working, but with the left earphone lead, I was thinking it may be easy to just solder an extension wire from that point to another part of the board. As I said before, the copper gets in the way so its hard to see where the leads go, but one way I could find out is if I knew what each of the 4 wires going down to the stock audio jack individually do. Does anyone know? This way I can trace them back on the board. Of course, I don't know if this would work but it's worth a try until I do know.

Oh, thanks. It looks like I'm going to rewire the Half Clock crystal oscillator first then, because as far as I can tell, my ground wire for the potentiometer is wired solid and correctly. Then I'll see what problems I'm having and act accordingly or ask here.

As a side sort of off topic thing, when I did the prosound mod I think I accidentally severed one of the leads at the location you solder the wires to. The left headphone doesn't work at all on the new jack, and on the old jack the left headphone's output is significantly decreased. It seems really hard to get in there to fix the potentially severed wiring so I was thinking it might be easier to just solder an extra wire from where you solder the left headphone wire to, to an easier place on the board. It's hard to see where the lead gos though, because the copper plate covers it. Any ideas?

They are indeed! I was originally aiming for a black/purple blend, or purple/dark purple blend, but this one is a tad darker than I thought it would be anyway so all is well smile

Thanks for all of the help! I'm getting there.

Here is a random picture. The reflection was completely accidental which makes it all the more awesome:

Now, for my post:

I don't know how to install the half-clock mod seperately (but that might be a good Idea - read on)... Also, I ran into a problem. First I'll draw the circuit (the one I have currently soldered all up and stuff), then I'll explain what it's doing:


(That little chip is from Get Lofi - The 5 is +5, the O is output, and the G is ground. Extra note: I actually soldered the Half Speed crystal oscillator to the O on the Get Lofi circuit directly, but in the image above I drew an extra wire and made it separate because that was easier to draw, and it's still, as far as I'm aware, correct.)

Ok. So. The Half Speed switch doesn't seem to affect anything... Er, well, there seems to be a very slight difference in the mid-clock speed range but I'm not sure if I'm just hearing things because I want there to be a difference or not. When the potentiometer switch is on, everything seems to function correctly. I can bend the pitch and everything right. But, when the potentiometer switch is off... Regardless of how the Half Speed switch is, the clock speed just like, stops. I don't want to say 'crash' because, when I turn the potentiometer switch back on it continues correctly. At the moment I just want to be able to turn the potentiometer off, enabling the stock crystal oscillator, but I don't know which wire I'm meant to be putting the switch on since I thought where I was putting it was ok. Should it be on the output one? Or the ground? Or what? Then, if the Half Speed switch doesn't seem to be doing anything I want to install it separately (but I don't know how).

Thanks again for your help and support!

Ok. 2 quick things before I do it. 1: What do you mean by "basically runs the crystals in parallel"? Isn't there just the one crystal? and 2: What would happen if I actually used the 2 in parallel? I'm thinking of doing this...

Oh... Thanks but the switches have only two pins, otherwise I'd do something similar to what you suggested hmm (Your diagram shows what I'm trying to achieve; ON-ON switch functionality. But I only have ON-OFF switches) Also, how/where is the short-circuit?

The idea with my diagram is that the regular crystal is always on, but the 2nd crystal is only on if the switch is in the ON position. As for where the Pitch Bend pins are meant to connect... Well, I'm not sure, and I'd follow a proper tutorial to know where they go, but the general purpose for the diagram was to show the idea of bypassing the second crystal and the pitch mod always, but then being able to make the current go through those paths as well, with use of a switch on each path. So then my switch would (I think), in one position be cutting the line to the 2nd oscillator, and in the other position be joining it up, meaning both of the crystals are connected ... I wonder if this is a problem. I really don't want to try something without knowing and screw it up >_<

Oh also, that 3rd thing in the diagram is this.

Goal:
I want to be able to swap (via a switch) between the regular crystal oscillator and the half speed oscillator, while also being able to swap (via a switch) between using a potentiometer to alter the clock speed and not using one.

Problems:
-I only have ON-OFF switches, and have no hope of getting ON-ON switches due to the fact that I have literally no money now, so the only hope is to see if I can work around it to achieve something similar.
-I do not have or want to use ON-OFF-ON switches here.

Here is a rather crude diagram of what I think I might be able to do to get around my problems (Crude in the fact that I didn't try to make the respective mods necessarily connect to the right places - the diagram is simply to show the ON-OFF switch workarounds):

Would this work? I don't know much about the behavior of electricity but I think it will... If I'm not mistaken, this should turn the switches into ONON-ONOFF, meaning the current will go through either one or both only. Here are some of the bigger questions in relation to this: With the current running through both crystal oscillators like in the diagram, what would the clock speed be? Would the effects of one override the other? Would the effects of both of them average out, resulting in a higher-than-half, lower-than-normal clock speed? Would the effects of both of them add or multiply, resulting in a fast clock speed? I'm hoping one cancels the other out; this way I can just put the one that cancels the other out where the half speed oscillator is on the diagram, and the other one first, achieving a seemingly ON-ON switch. Same questions for the potentiometer situation. I want to know everything I can before going in there and screwing something up badly.

Bonus / Unrelated questions:
-With Nonfinite's V3 backlight, is it the non ground wire that goes through an ON-OFF switch?
-Is there a good way to cut squares into plastic suitable for rocker switches? Right now the best method I've got is to melt a dodgy square with the soldering iron...

All help much much appreciated.