49 Reply by oliver

(2 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Matt101 wrote:

The connection between the adaptor and the GB link cable appears very unstable.

While the USB end can be difficult to fit sometimes, the connection between adaptor and link cable is typically the most reliable part in the chain. The PCB should fit firmly into the plug and have good contact. If you have to "nurse" the connection, a broken cable or worn out plug seems more likely. This happened with my cables a few times.

Matt101 wrote:

The tool will indicate that it is connected to the game boy when it is not, As it can just be connected to the Mini Usb adaptor and not the GB.

The tool just says "nanoloop USB-MIDI connected " which means that the nanoloop USB-MIDI adaptor is connected (and not that the adaptor is connected to nanoloop via USB MIDI, maybe that's a little mistakable).There is indeed no two-way connection (except for the nl2 update), data are sent / received blindly. Hence no mention of a Game Boy.

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50 Reply by oliver

(18 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Signals are available pre-envelope only. R and N play constantly at full volume and a digital envelope is applied via DAC. C has an analog envelope but still goes through a DAC that controls volume and shapes the envelope a little. Depending on frequency, C may produce a constant hum or much longer envelopes pre-DAC.
The signals you wish to separate would be those coming out of the DACs. However, they are wired together and go into an amp stage. To separate them, you would have to cut them off the mix, so there is no way to grab them without destroying the cart. Not really worth the effort I'd say.

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51 Reply by oliver

(4 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

send me an email.

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52 Reply by oliver

(5 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Sounds like a defective Game Boy. I don't think software can cause such behaviour, but who knows.
If you can reproduce the issue, please send the corresponding bank with instructions how to provoke a crash.

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53 Reply by oliver

(20 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

anything above 5v should be ok. 50v is probably too big in size.

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54 Reply by oliver

(7 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

That's how I discovered it, too.

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55 Reply by oliver

(7 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Added the external version to original post. Probably the simplest mod ever. I recommend to try this first and see if it makes a difference. Works great on both my GBA units.

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56 Reply by oliver

(19 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

No, this part is only to check communication between the web page script and the adaptor, it should work without a cable attached. I don't know which end causes the problem, probably it's the script. To reset, it usually helps to reload the page, but sometimes it's necessary to restart Chrome, too.

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57 Reply by oliver

(19 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Please keep in mind that 2.7 is not fully compatible with 2.3's saved files. If you have banks on this cart you wish to continue to work on, please leave it at 2.3.

If you still want to update:

First, make sure no other MIDI program is interfering with the adaptor (close your DAW, close other instances of nlmidi).

To check the adaptor's function, set the MIDI mode first by clicking the "MIDI mode" tab and then the "SYNC" button. It should immediately say "SYNC mode OK" below the buttons. If it remains at "...", communication doesn't work. If that's the case, please unplug the adaptor, reload the page, re-plug and try again.
Once you got the "SYNC mode OK" message, click the "update nl 2" tab and the "update" button. Now start the Game Boy and immediately hold START+SELECT so that the Nintendo logo disappears and it only displays "GAME BOY". This has to be done during boot, before the nanoloop logo shows up.

Now the page should say "transfer started" and slowly count up to 256k/256k. On the Game Boy, the Nintendo logo should re-appear and slowly blink dark/light pink.

If you are still stuck at this point and there is no "transfer started" message and no blinking Nintendo logo, it's a connection problem

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58 Reply by oliver

(19 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

if you know someone with a 2.7, you can update via cart swapping.

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59 Reply by oliver

(19 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

2.7 is the same hardware as 2.3. why not just update?

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60 Reply by oliver

(20 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

it's 1000uF = 1F, generic model should be fine.

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61 Reply by oliver

(16 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

That yellow one is a 1.1 cart.

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62 Reply by oliver

(274 replies, posted in General Discussion)

@nanoloop

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63 Topic by oliver

(7 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Besides the hum (see noise filter mod), the GBA often suffers from a little high pitched whine. This annoying tone can be almost eliminated with a grounded shield near the audio amp.

This can be done internally and externally.
The easy way:


(be careful not to short the battery contacts)

(Foil sticked flat on the case with some adhesive tape.)

DONE!



If this works for you, you may consider the internal version:

Cut the foil into a square of about 3x3 cm with an appendix of 8 cm as shown here.



Insulate the square with a slightly bigger adhesive label.



Open the GBA and fold the PCB up.


Put the square on the PCB under the speaker and hold it in place with some tape.


Carefully flip back the PCB and fold the appendix up.


Put some insulation on the PCB, fold the appendix towards the screw hole marked with the arrow. Fix it with some tape so that the foil is right at the hole.

Fix the PCB by tightening the screws again. The screw in the hole marked red goes through the foil.

Before closing the case again, you may apply the noise filter mod to minimize hum, too: http://chipmusic.org/forums/topic/19565 … olderless/

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64 Reply by oliver

(8 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Yes, will fix that soon.

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