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I can't tell ya how many times I've found a cement truck causing trouble in a GameBoy...

Well I've discussed it with my client and we've decided to remove the speaker. I believe that with it removed, I'll be able to get the case closed much easier.
As for the LED's, I had them wired in parallel at first, it worked but caused more bulk inside the case with all the resistors and extra wires. I didn't realize that having them in series would draw more power than a parallel setup, you learn something new everyday! Once I can get everything else situated in the shell, I'll try to redo the LED situation.

Ok so I ran into another problem yesterday, I'm really hoping it's nothing to freak out over, but I'm a little worried. I was testing the DMG yesterday, and I had to plug in then remove the LCD ribbon cable quite a few times, and I guess over all the time I've spent on the GB the pins weakened and now it looks as if the entire line of pins has broken. The white shielding on the ribbon is still intact, but I can see a small bump across each pin in a straight line. When the ribbon is plugged in, it has to be at a certain angle for the LCD to function. If the ribbon is kept flat near the breaks, it works fine, but the slightest bend in the cable causes it to start cutting in and out. I really think this a fixable problem, but has anyone run into this problem before and found a way to fix it without replacing the LCD PCB? I think I just need something to kind of clamp the ribbon cable around the breaks so that it won't bend in that area. Any suggestions?

The speaker could be blown, but so far I haven't managed to get the SP, DMG, or GBC speakers to work

And so far I'm really diggin' the VC, it's a huge step up from the GetLoFi LTC's. Great job!

I had that same problem on a DMG I modded a while back, but I somehow managed to get 5 LED's  installed... I just can't remember what my process was haha.
The LED calculator is definitely something I need to use more often
I'm gonna swap the resistor and try hooking up the variable clock again, I'll post my results shortly.

I'll try that, is there another spot that might be better for connecting the LED's?
I'm almost certain that the issue is not caused by the actaul var clock, so I don't think ill need a replacement, but thank you for the offer
Btw what value resistors do you use for your case LED kits? I've got 4 3mm blue LED's for the Dpad and A/B all hooked up in a series connected to a 470ohm resistor attached to the cap on the LCD board in your pic. It took me forever to find a resistor value that made the LED's bright without draining too much power but I'm not sure if a different value would be more ideal and help the var clock issue.

Thebitman- that does sound like it might work, but I don't know how I would go a bout doing that

Hey everyone, it's been a while since I've updated the build blog, I've been working on the boring stuff recently like reinforcing connections, routing wires, and tinkering with different resistors for the case/button LED's. I've got everything hooked up, and everything seems to work fine except the Variable Clock v3. I believe the problem may be caused by hooking the +5V to the power board connection, when it's connected there the DMG won't even power on, but once disconnected everything works fine. Any suggestions for the best place to hook up the +5V? I can't hook it up to the +5V on the cart slot because the MMC won't power up. The link port already has the AB and PS/2 hooked up to the +5V (should I change this?).

Well I was planning on including 2 midi jacks, but I can change it to 3. Btw these kits DO NOT come with link cables. I intended these kits to be installed internally, and I can never seem to find the link cables with the +5V line...