alright, here it is.

http://www.mediafire.com/?ec2h1ub97dxvbh8

hopefully not everybody who grabs a copy plans to sell my mod and claim credit...

2

(7 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

derp

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Other-/187/m.ht … gamegeekhq

3

(1,206 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

my latest smile the first two are actually FS, PM me if interested



Alpine wrote:

I didn't have time to check the tutorial before it got taken down, and I understand currently there is an issue with diodes. My question is, if I was able to scavenge an NES controller socket from the console myself, would I be able to plug the NES controller into that, instead of having wires running everywhere?

I'll get it back up soon, I've completely fixed the issue and just need to rewrite certain steps and draw up a couple new diagrams.

As to your question, the nes controller cord only has 5 wires in it and to control a DMG you need 6 =/ the nes socket has 7 pins however, so it is possible that there was an accessory that used 6 or even all 7 of them that we could salvage a cord from... If anyone has any intel on this, I'd love to hear about it too smile

*tut removed till its updated btw*

nitro2k01 wrote:

Needs more diodes!

Refer to the schematic here, lower left corner of the first schematic. They are needed to guarantee that the 6-wire layout works properly. It may not be obvious when using LSDj, but as soon as  you do certain 3 button combos, the DMG will detect a 4th ghost button. Consider what happens when you press say A, right and down, when the diodes are not in place. Effectively, P13 and P15 are shorted as well, and a non.existent start button press will register.

For testing this, I recomment this thing that I made which will indicate all pressed button on the screen.

I mentioned this in the tutorial lol, but yes that is the source of the issue. Using 8 diodes will fix the problem, I'll update the tut as soon as I can (ran out of diodes!)

marry christmas smile

http://www.mediafire.com/?58plbdjmh55hihr

Alpine wrote:

I've got a question, does doing this mean that it can only be controlled with an NES controller, or can you still use the buttons on the gameboy?

The way I do it, the original buttons remain fully functional smile

I'll finish and share the tut in the next couple days. And no worries, it'll be detailed and thorough lol. As I said before, its not a particularly difficult mod; If you're comfortable with a soldering iron and have a steady hand, you shouldn't have any problems with it once you know what to do.

10

(1,206 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Just a prototype smile

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYjFZbiISwo

kitsch wrote:

yeah...  a new board housed in a nes controller would work well for this too!

Bamboori wrote:

well then id love a schematic of that :-p

cereale wrote:

i'm waiting some schematics too

decided to put together a prototype to show you guys lol, take a look smile i'll write up a tutorial next week, it's really not that hard and doesn't require any special adapters or parts.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYjFZbiISwo

12

(3 replies, posted in Trading Post)

Victory Road wrote:

can you turn the button backlights off completely?

No, not on this one. When the buttons are switched to being sound reactive they are off except when you 'play' a track however, so if power draw is a concern you can leave that engaged.

13

(3 replies, posted in Trading Post)

Hi guys! It's come to my attention that I have a pair of DMGs on my desk that nobody's claimed as of yet...

This first one is rather unique, I took a yellow PiL DMG and backlit all the buttons, and then set up a secondary power source for the LEDs that is sound reactive. The secondary source is switched, so you can choose between having the buttons simply backlit and being reactive. I also installed an activity indicator LED beside the switch; This small LED flashes with the music and lets you know at a glance if you're DMG's output is active (which can be real useful if your at events / playing live!). These mods do not rely on a mic to pic up noise btw, so it will only flash and pulse to the beat of your track. To recap, this is a yellow PiL DMG with a green backlight, green backlit buttons, a green activity indicator, green transparent power switch, green power indicator LED, a pro-sound jack in the traditional location, and of course a brand new screen lens. $160 shipped USPS Priority w/ tracking.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gXfSPP7vquM


The second one is just as cool; It's a green PiL DMG which has my 'advanced' variable pitch mod installed. This mod provides you with a pair of pots instead of the normal single, which allows you to adjust the speed the Gameboy is running at with an unprecedented level of fine tuning. A normal variable pitch mod lets you adjust up and down same as this mod does in essence, but with a main and a secondary you can fine tune your clock rate to the thousandths and find that sweet spot you've been hunting for. If you're looking for maximum crunchy bass, this is the mod for you too; This greenie can hit such slow low lows the thing just about goes backwards. It also has a rather special backlight in it; It is actually custom made, not something anyone could go buy from ASM or NonFi or any of the other vendors. It is based on the original design of the very first backlights to be made; It makes use of a single green 3mm non-smd LED mounted and glued to a panel under the LCD and UV film, and lends a cool classic look thats impossible to achieve with today's gear. Also installed is a 1/8" pro-sound jack in the traditional location, a brand new screen lens with the protective film still in place, and a rare neon green Dpad to give the Gameboy a little more snap (in case the twin chrome metal knobs weren't enough!). I should also point out that the original headphone port notch/hole has been plugged with a carefully cut piece of plastic from a damaged green PiL DMG smile  $160 shipped USPS Priority w/ tracking.



Post your claim here and send me a message to work out the details smile

Check out some more cool stuff or put together a custom order at https://www.facebook.com/burnfingers!

hahaha i don't think you could read my notes >_< i'll put one together sometime next week and post it + details for ya. watch the forums or at facebook.com/burnfingers smile

Endgame wrote:

Unfortunately I've no multimeter on hand. Would it be possible to brute-force the right connections? Or would that be detrimental?

well that makes things harder. you'd be better off not finding out if you can wreck things by hooking it up wrong lol. how about making a quick tester to map your cord out?

two pieces of wire, a led, and a 820ohm resistor (or any resistor you have on hand that works with the led). solder the resistor to your led's + leg (the + is the smaller finger inside the led, while the - is the big triangular one) and the - side to one of the wires. solder the other end of this wire to any ground on the mainboard (the copper plate works, or the - battery terminal). solder the second wire to the positive battery terminal on the inside of the case (the terminal, not the dc converter board). pop in the batterys, pinch your resistor to one of the wires in your DMG-04 cord and tap your + wire from the battery terminal to the connector's cluster of 6 solder points on the board. one of them with make your led light up and tell you which is which smile you dont need to turn the dmg on to test it this way, and no, you cant get shocked doing this anymore than you can by pinching a AA battery between two fingers lol. the left 3 solder points on the mainboard (top being the side with the power switch) correspond to the top 3 in the connector (top being the side with the rounded edges).

beyond that, buy a cheap multimeter lol

kitsch wrote:

its not a quick 1:1 connection, you need to translate one to the other.

not necessarily. i've had this mod on my list for a while, haven't had time to complete one yet but its really quite simple to do.

first off, the DMG buttons are matrixed, so you actually only need a 6 pin cable no 9 like someone said above. and really, its easiest if you just re-purpose the nes's original pcb to trigger the DMG's in the same manner that the LCD daughter board does rather than designing a new pcb or *shutter* using pushbuttons. the only hard part is fitting a nes port/connector to the DMG, and even thats easy if you use a old serial port wink theres no need to translate the button presses on the controller to the DMG or anything so bulky as that.