113 Reply by lastfuture

(1,206 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Vex wrote:

It is very very sexy! Only thing id change if it were
Mine would be the SS and screen. I hate that grey color. Id go with black or orange. I think orange thrown in the mix would look very cool.

That's exactly why next time I order I'll get the clear S S and I probably a black screen protector. Orange would be one color too much I think, perhaps hot pink to match the print smile

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114 Reply by lastfuture

(1,206 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Timbob wrote:

That black/green/blue combo is quite sexy smile
Well done!

Thank you. I was hoping you'd see this actually, because I know you like color.

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115 Reply by lastfuture

(1,206 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I finally got my package from kitsch and backlit my black PiL with a teal LEDx3. It looks more green than teal, so I matched it with the back of a green PiL. Also threw in blue buttons that I got from kitsch smile


Yeah this is just a sloppy take-what-I-have-lying-around mix and match job but I like the outcome... also yay first backlight mod! (peeling that back polarizer is a bitch)
Now that I know it's not hard I'll plan out my next backlight mod better. Probably biverted, different select and start buttons, matching screen protector... smile

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116 Reply by lastfuture

(9 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

What are you guys' experiences with those eneloop batteries? I hear they're NiMH with the benefit that they don't lose a lot of power by themselves when the device is powered off. Are they better than regular rechargeable NiMHs then?

Also there are different capacities available both with eneloop and "regular" rechargeable Ni-MH batteries. I'm assuming higher mAh means I can actually power the Game Boy for longer with them, correct?

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117 Reply by lastfuture

(1,485 replies, posted in Trading Post)

Huh I totally missed the blacklight photo on the previous page, sorry for the confusion

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118 Reply by lastfuture

(1,485 replies, posted in Trading Post)

Didn't you say they reacted to UV light? ... any photos of that?

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119 Reply by lastfuture

(28 replies, posted in General Discussion)

Subway Sonicbeat wrote:

potatoes and sweet potatoes

but which is which?

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120 Reply by lastfuture

(3 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Oh yeah totally forgot some of the DSs also support GBA cartridges. I'll check, but I think they're harder to find for a cheap buck than any of the pre-DS systems

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121 Topic by lastfuture

(3 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Hello,

I've picked up a Game Boy Micro at a flea market yesterday because I want to give nanoloop 2.6 a spin. Unfortunately despite the otherwise perfect condition of the Micro I noticed very prominent hiss and noise on headphones.

Is this expected or have I bought a lemon here? I'm prepared to shell out moar bucks for a second GBA compatible model (Advance, Advance SP frontlit, Advance SP backlit or micro) that I can use for recordings and I'd like to know if any of you can provide me with insight about what would be my best choice sound wise.

You don't need to take price, battery, backlight or even ergonomic button layout into account, just the sound and signal to noise ratio. Non-backlit or unergonomic is fine as I'll be composing on the micro and recording at home from the second machine. Also, it seems to be easy enough to track down all models for roughly the same price if you know how to use ebay to your advantage.

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122 Reply by lastfuture

(43 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Is the command for a wubwubwub the same as for a wobbbwoaabbb?
But seriously ... a "dubstep drop" can – given my limited understanding of dubstep – be any number of combinations of different techniques combined in different ways and order. Do you mean a pitch slide? A wobble? A stuttering / gated sound? ... or are you implying all dubstep drops are the same? I bet the haters would agree.

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123 Reply by lastfuture

(28 replies, posted in General Discussion)

Comparing game soundtracks of the same games on both platforms (e.g. Duck Tales) I tend to like the NES versions more. I often get the feeling, NES sounds are softer and richer (the latter probably due to the aforementioned additional channel). My personal preference for my own music is the Game Boy though, simply because it's what I grew up with and grew used to.

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124 Reply by lastfuture

(55 replies, posted in General Discussion)

This just in: Writers everywhere are shaking in their boots because of the latest advances in OCR software.

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125 Reply by lastfuture

(39 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I got notice today that contrary to what the merchant's online store stated the usb hub I ordered is actually out of stock and will take one or two weeks to get to them first. Kind of a damper, since I was expecting it today.

Just wanted to let you all know so that you don't think I've abandoned the project.

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126 Reply by lastfuture

(39 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

trash80 wrote:

I did this a year or 2 ago. The only thing you'll wanna add is a cap on the power rails for the usb hub so that the dmg on/off doesnt kill the usb bus power. I should read this whole thread before posting. Anyway heres my flickr pics...


http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/trash80/5427448370/

Haha! And even in a red DMG as well, with the iMic. Do you have a writeup of this?
Good info with the cap, what do you suggest? 10nf?

Ah well I knew somebody must have had the same idea before.

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127 Reply by lastfuture

(39 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Apeshit wrote:

You might find that the screws for the front PCB will start to strip now, since you've removed some vital plastic parts for supporting it. The PCB may also start to bend if that happens.

Thanks for the heads up, Apeshit. Really appreciate your warning. I've informed myself beforehand what the different parts do and I at least know that I removed the two circular plastic parts opposite the button pads that are an integral part for the stability of the front PCB. I have thought long about if I need them and I came to the conclusion that I will risk it for a couple of reasons:

First of all I'm planning to use this DMG as my DAW companion, that means I will be starting it with mgb and remotely controlling it over MIDI for most of the time. The number of button presses compared to say a DMG primarily used for LSDJ will be minimal, a handful per session perhaps.

Secondly this is a proof of concept. I am willing to sacrifice a DMG and the other parts in the name of "science" if this does not work out wink everybody here is invited to learn from what I do and improve upon it, I'm just pioneering the work. In fact I would be stoked if anybody who knows more about the DMG and electronics than me will step in and streamline and optimize the process.

Finally I'm really excited about this project and I'm having a lot of fun thinking about how to pull it off and getting my hands dirty.

In any case I will learn from this and others will do the same.
Worst case is that I fail to execute my idea properly. I can then try to identify why it failed and try again.
Best case is everything is holding up and I'm building the next big mod, just like everybody is prosounding the DMG nowadays some may be "USBoying" theirs in the future (or what ever name we come up with).

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128 Reply by lastfuture

(39 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I didn't want to wait for my triwing to arrive so I took a flathead and managed to get the screws out. Since I also don't have my rotary tool at the moment I removed parts of the battery compartment with a knife, pliers and my soldering iron. The parts I didn't remove are the two screw holes, the part that holds the audio jack and the part responsible for holding the battery door in place.


This doesn't need to be pretty, it'll do its job behind a closed battery door anyway. While I was in there I also cleaned the button pads and what else needed cleaning in my opinion.

Because I'll be wiring the headphone jack to the output of the USB sound card instead of prosounding it, I won't be needing most of the daughter board, so I cut off the part that that the jack wasn't soldered to so the electronics won't bite my ass later… better safe than sorry. I also cut the four wires on the main pcb, because they weren't attached to anything anymore. I also removed the speaker.

Finally I measured where the pins of the nanoloop USB MIDI adapter go when it's plugged into the link cable. the switch-up between pins 2 and 3 is correct, they're a twisted pair. what's IN on one side is OUT on the other.

Before I'll continue any further I will wait for the USB hub to arrive because it determines how I'll arrange things in the newly won space. Hope it won't be too long.

I've decided to solder the 5V and GND of the incoming USB cable (the one belonging to the hub) to the two battery terminals that are left over when the time has come. I hope I'm correct in assuming that this would work just as well as soldering them to the power connector.

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