145

(44 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

DO NOT buy that kind of cable. It will basically only send sync. No data. They don't fully work. You need to spend closer to $30 and up unfortunately. I would recommend the M-Audio Uno:
http://m-audio.com/products/en_us/Uno.html

146

(1,485 replies, posted in Trading Post)

Nice. I'm only using the new start and select buttons. I've got yellow and pink to match my plastic button sets. These new SS buttons are far superior to the last version and the original Nintendo ones. They perfect!

147

(19 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Sounds like the voltage regulator board. Check the 4 wires and make sure all the solder joints are clean and that there are no bridges. Also look the at board itself and see if there is any corrosion. This board corrodes quicker for some reason. Also does this board get hot any where after it's powered on for at least 15 minutes? If not any of this you could try replacing the board to see if that will fix it.

148

(304 replies, posted in Trading Post)

We just restocked Game Boy Color and Original light grey DMG screen covers:
http://thursdaycustoms.bigcartel.com/pr … all-models

149

(13 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

That is a gorgeous Game Boy!

Yep,the dimmer the panel is, the more visible the LCD will be. I believe Kitsch set it to it's maximum brightness so that people could mess with it from there.

151

(10 replies, posted in Commodore Computers)

Do want.

152

(12 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

You may need to use a wire then. You basically need the entire ground plane on the back to connect to the ground plane on the front that connects to that tab.

153

(12 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Haha had you typed out a similar essay?

154

(12 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

And actually, now having an LCD PCB in my hand it supplies ground to part of the LCD, the center capacitor and it is the only ground signal for the speaker.

155

(12 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

killedatschool wrote:

Yep! Just realized I said right instead of left! Try adding some solder to it on both sides.

156

(12 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

When looking at the back of the PCB is it the prong in the middle on the left side? If so this ground tab actually acts as one very necessary "via" that supplies many of the capacitors with their ground signal.

You can try:
Adding a good amount os solder to both sides of the prong and hope it fills in the gap.
Or if the PCB is broken in this spot then you would be better off trying to use a wire. Scrape off some of the material over the copper(solder stop) near the ground tab, apply solder and simply use a wire.

This should fix it. Let me know if this works!

Home improvement store! You can buy thin squares of plexiglass. I used to make my own screen covers and paint the back and such(before all these fancy clear ones came out). I can't remember the exact thickness but bring your old screen cover with you and compare it. Works great if you have a steady cutting technique!

158

(10 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Could you tell the brand and model # of that mini keyboard? I'd really like one of these for myself but I of course like to modify my own gear.

Very nice! Unfortunately it's an experiment every time. But at least it always works! Your batteries should last much longer now too.

thursdaycustoms wrote:

The issue is that your backlight is draining too much power. You need to add a resistor to the backlight to bring the brightness down and therefor draw less power. I have to do this with every Pocket that I backlight. I would recommend somewhere between 100ohms and 220ohms depending on the color of your backlight.
But as an experiment you can try desoldering the backlight altogether and try running LSDJ again. This will tell you without a doubt if your backlight is drawing too much power. I would recommend starting at 150ohms and then seeing which way you need to go from there.