369

(35 replies, posted in Other Hardware)

Stay away from compressors. In my experiences, unless you can run only the drums through it like you can with NES, then all it will do is ruin the dynamics, not enhance them.

A reverb would be useful in small doses. I also found the BBE sonic maximizer to be very pleasing with chip music.

Piano roll is different no matter how you tilt it. The roll is a visual representation of where the notes are and how far up or down the scale they live. Trackers only list the note's letter in order on a timeline.

It's not gameboy, but you could also try out MSSIAH for the Commodore 64. It's a native piano roll style sequencer with a ton of power. Also has MIDI and SID2SID support.

I definitely don't really like trackers at all. I'm most comfortable in a piano roll. But if I need to use a tracker in order to play on the real chips, I will first compose in a DAW to choose my note selection and phrasing, and then I transfer it to whatever medium that will allow me to run it on the real hardware. For example, I use ppMCK to make nsfs, but before I go punching notes into an MML text editor, I will have already composed it in ableton using Midines.

How much for n64 games? They were inside the sold spoiler, but since they were under yet another spoiler I thought I'd ask anyway.

EDIT: oops forgot to read the thread posts ;P

Beware wrote:

Sold the 12 string.  I'm hauling the games to a local vendor right now.

If you have an intel based mac:
Parallels
Boot Camp
VMWare Fusion
Wine?

If you have a PowerPC based mac:
Virtual PC 7.0.2

Also a bet anything that the mac driver you speak of is intel only.

I actually didn't get a good performance out of that iron at all. wasn't hot enough. I got a hakko one I like alot better. It has a button on it for boosting the heat for a short period of time when you need that extra boost for a tough joint. Plus it can be pressed for quicker heat up time. I think it's called the Hakko Presto

376

(1,620 replies, posted in General Discussion)

I like your bed. wink

377

(25 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

lol yeah I'm running a G5 PPC, and have been coveting all the software I can't run for years now. It's frustrating as hell being left in the dark with no support from everyone making cool plugins and softwares.

378

(25 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

Yeah any power cable with only two prongs is not earth referenced. The third prong is the earth pin, which all desktop computers have, hence why it seems daw users don't have as many sticky note problems. Sorry but I don't have a solution.

379

(27 replies, posted in General Discussion)

That was a very cute song.

380

(25 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

I've also wondered about ppqn of my daw making things stick. Like, for arguments sake, lets say that midines is capable of reading 24ppqn. I know that ableton is 48ppqn. I always thought what if my note off messages where on some tick that was somewhere on the 48ppqn range and for all the midiness is concerned it was somewere halfway between a valid spot to have a midi message. it might just ignore it. But hey, like you, I don't know much of anything about midi, and I've actually read somewhere that midi messages are all 24ppqn. So I'm guessing no matter how large the pulse count is of your daw, the output across midi will always be 24. All this is merely speculation though.

381

(25 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

untilzero wrote:

I did open up the cart too, noticing that only two of the MIDI cable wires are actually connected to the board (neither is ground/shield either).  Curious, because on wayfar the only real 'solution' addressing this issue is a 'grounding issue / bad ac adaptor' or something.  I'm not an engineer, but it did make me wonder why then the MIDI ground wasn't connected to the clearly labelled ground on the MIDINES pcb in the cart...

The midi cable is isolated from the circuit using an optoisolator. Only the pins 4 and 5 are required. grounding it might have undesired results.

also what did your pcb look like? I have two different revisions of the midines and my earlier one is far better at recovering from sticky notes than the later revision.

Does it look like this...

or like this.....


The second one, labeled "Squeedo the flash cart", is the older version and the easiest to work with, at least in MY experience. The good thing about this cart is that when I hit the soft reset on the NES, all of the volume, duty cycle, and other such CC will will remain intact. this means when I get a stuck note I quickly hit reset without stopping the midi sequence, and the note gets back on track. All the volume and CC stuff is remembered by the NES. The later version, labeled "Midines 2 R1", on the other hand, does not do this. it will forget all that info and on top of that it wont even fix the stuck notes as described above.

Considering you said that you'd seen a actual GND connection on the PCB, I'm assuming you have the Squeedo version. This, I believe, is good news for you. Try tapping the reset whenever you stick a note. It'll interrupt sound for a second but it can be somewhat covered up with like a Kaoss pad loop effect during the reset or tapping it in time with the beat.

382

(25 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

Mine would only stick when I would interrupt the normal flow of things. For example if I hit stop on my daw as it's triggering a new note, things will stick. Other than that, things are fine when I use it in Ableton.

383

(32 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

Hmmm, whilst poking around and experimenting, I've come to discover that all the nanoloop sync devices on the web are using SI pin 3 for syncing with nanoloop. yet the pulse that Famislayer is using comes out of the SO pin 2. I'm not sure how that will affect my plans to move forward but it most likely means the Midi to Nanoloop sync circuit I had in mind wont work correctly. Still waiting on some parts to arrive so I'll have more details when I've gotten to actually solder something up and test it.

At the very least I've come up with the base for my circuit and heres a quick preview of it.

Am I right in assuming that the pulse being sent by pin2 (SO) is a 12ppqn signal? when I slow the tempo right down to 40 in lsdj and stare at the LED blinking, it looks like for every 2 ticks inside a table I get one blink on the led. I'm still unsure if the even number ticks (0, 2, 4, 6, etc.) are a low or a high. If it is a 12ppqn pulse being used, maybe some of you avr guys could code a simple MIDI to 12ppqn pulse generator for me? I might be thinking the wrong way as I often do, but I'm assuming the signals from a raw Midi cable aren't 5v logic.

hmmmm.... I wish I knew more about midi, could it be possible to just divide it using cmos logic in some way? Would just opto isolating and feeding it into a divider work?

P.S. I hooked up lsdj to pin 13 on the shift regiter and it behaves exactly like hooking straight up to the Data Out wire. I might just abandon the 4021 if it becomes unnecessary. Going to proceed as if I need it though just in case.

384

(32 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

Ah, that is what I was afraid of tongue. Ok. Well I'm going to be building a control box for my two NES' and I'll definitely make a post here when it's done. Currently waiting on parts to arrive, but if any one want's to play along with me or maybe even correct me on any assumption I may have wrong heres my plan....

I will be taking one controller pcb and adding a second cable to fit into both 'player 2' jacks on two NES'. I'm then going to be building a MIDI to nanoloop clock converter (decade counter method) and connecting it to the shift register. Will also have just a simple cmos clock (40106) that I can switch to incase I don't have or don't want to use midi. Also it wouldn't be complete without a DMG cable or link port on there wink. The box will take power from the controller's 5v rail. Oh, I forgot to mention I'll be omitting the 5v wire from the second controller cable, but keeping the grounds connected so the two incoming voltages don't conflict. At least i THINK thats what I am spose to do. not 100% on that one.

Thats the base idea. Been brainstorming 'bout some bells and whistles like a soft latch for toggling between half time or normal speed. Thinking just a cmos divider or binary counter will do the work and MOSFET's will do my latching.

Edit: Oooo, I just had a better idea. By grabbing a 4021 and some pullup resistors I can just build a nes controller right into my circuit. I'd first connect the Clock, Latch, Data, 5v, and GND wires to there apropriate places on the 4021, and then pull up P1-P8 to 5v. then have the nanoclock pulling P5 (pin 13 aka 'start') to ground thus activating the 'button'. Which leads me to another question. Looking at the schematic it looks like a key is activated with ground since all the pins are pulled high and every button is tied to ground on one side. If the LSDj's notes are starting on an upward rising edge wouldn't it be ever so slightly off time? I'm guessing it's probably negligible but I think it interesting to note non the less.