I've been intrigued by DROP1410's mod seen on this post:
Click here to see it. I'd decided to give it a go and see how it went. Originally I wanted a switch to be on the project box itself, but it wasn't viable and didn't really make sense.

In DROP1410's post he'd used (see diagram below):
- 2k resistor
- 3'9k resistor
- 470k potentiometer
- LTC1799 variable pitch PCB

I, however, didn't have an LTC1799 lying around, so i used a Variable Clock v2 from Thursday Customs.
I ended up using:
- 500k potentiometer
- Variable Clock v2 (with 10k resistor hand-soldered on the high limiter) For some reason, the pre-soldered SMD resistor wasn't working.
- Standard Mini-B cable
- Mini-b female SMT connector

Here's my end sketch:

I had a fair bit of trouble finding the mini-b socket. For some reason, Jaycar electronics didn't stock them, and they're the only store remotely like radioshack that we have in Aus (from what i know anyways). So i searched everywhere for something that i could de-solder one from.
I found these two digital keychain photo frames which were $4.95 each - they even came with mini-b cables!

I wired it up as seen in the drawing - using a small project box as a housing - and then used a drill and a dremel to cut the hole on the front faceplate.

It was the first time ever using a dremel and I definitely have to work on it. (Any advice / easier ways to have cut a hole would be awesome)

I used hot glue to stick the SMT connector in place and used heat-shrink on all my cabling (the circuit kept shorting out).
I placed the switch in the top right corner (see pic) and had to re-locate the capacitor that was on the PCB. I attached two wires and then moved the cap to somewhere it wouldn't be in the way.

Here's the end product! There's a video rendering at the moment which i'll post soon!

Let me know what you think!

130

(7 replies, posted in Releases)

jefftheworld wrote:

Post the modules, too! Some of us are still using Windows 95 and don't have the HDD space for all these fancy recordings.

Technically... If you were running windows 95 you'd be able to fit a lot more space worth of 'fancy recordings', seeing as 95 only took up 30-40MB worth of hard drive space wink

kitsch wrote:

i'm thinking maybe i should have some replacements of that particular cable made?

yes?  i'll do it if there is a need...  needed to eventually anyways, what better time than now!

That would be awesome! I'm sure plenty of people (including me, of course wink) would be interested!

Still, the main problem is the fact that it's so difficult to move a soldering iron within the fine space behind the LCD (without melting the plastic or the LCD itself).
Ugh, gameboy modding will be the death of me!

How are the LCD PCB's coming along, kitsch?

In the case that the obvious "replace the batteries" solution doesn't work, let me know. I'm having the same problem with my DMG even with fresh batteries. The problem is the opposite though. When the DMG is playing a song, the contrast is brightened (easier to see) but when i press start to stop the song, the contrast dims (not quite to the extent that you said - i can still see things).

This opposite effect may be due to my invert on the backlight though.

133

(1,206 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Burnfingers wrote:

Some of my latest projects;
This is the first paintjob i've done in quite a while, came out pretty nicely imo. Thumbstick mod, always cool. the 3rd DMG actually has MIDI In, and the 4th shows my USB 6v DMG power adapter smile Its got an integrated overload protection circuit to protect my laptop from power hungry DMG mods hahaha

How does the thumbstick function? It obviously only uses the up/down/left/right directions but does it feel natural? I'm considering doing that mod but adding a restrictor plate that makes it so l/r/u/d movements are easier.

It it just an xbox joystick?

Theres some flat heatshrink cabling that my local electronics store sells (that Im guessing is made for ribbon cables). Ill give it a go and see what happens!

135

(1,206 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Enfy wrote:

One of my three DMGs:

"AwesomeBoy" by Xevin
- nonfinite V4 "Envy" Emerald backlight
- ASM Retro PCB Mount Pro Sound V2





I just love this backlight

Those rocker switches look mint as! Where did you get them from? Nice mods!

I'm not sure i'm quite game enough. Soldering the wire onto the back PCB is nice and easy, but trying to solder onto the front PCB behind the LCD is a real bitch. Not really sure what other options there are so i'm gonna let it sit for a while!

So i've just finished prosounding a gameboy that i've been working on, and i've bent the LCD cable too much to the point where some of the wire has snapped internally. I've not seen anyone replace a ribbon cable on an LCD before. Has anyone here had experience with this?

I've cut up an old PC IDE cable and i'm planning on using that to solder the wire straight to the back PCB.

Here's a picture of my DMG after the ribbon failed:

Here's the ribbon (I know, i need to teach myself how to stop bending them to get them in!):

And the (tiny) IDE cable that i'm planning on using:

Theyre "188 in 1" although about 24 of them are copies of other games. Backlight cant be turned off. Check out "circuitben"s youtube page. He has videos on the dissection and modding of the consoles!

That's crazy! I'd never seen these before last week and now they're popping up everywhere!
If only they didn't have such an unusual aspect ratio sad

140

(49 replies, posted in Trading Post)

That smoothboy is BEAUTIFUL
What kind of sandpaper did you use to sand it? Awfully fine grit i'm guessing..

I'm after the N64 game "Kirby 64: The Crystal Shards" - PAL only. I come across NTSC copies all the time but they won't play on my PAL console.
Hit me up if you have one you're happy to sell/trade.

I have plenty of original DMG consoles and a few reconditioned NDS consoles too!
Name your price!

142

(81 replies, posted in Trading Post)

Budusy12 wrote:

Thanks for the the offer but I really am looking for a clean front shell with no holes or cracks but thanks.

Too easy. I figured i'd put it out there since the faceplate's just sitting around!

143

(81 replies, posted in Trading Post)

I have one although it's got a 6.5mm hole drilled in the front (where the speaker sits) for a potentiometer, along with a 5mm hole on the left side for a SPDT switch.

144

(5 replies, posted in Trading Post)

Can i buy both of those + the bag of buttons off you? I'll PM you my paypal smile