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ChipMusic.org / Forums / Posts by friendofmegaman
And here kineticcc did two LiPo's in parallel
Concerns:
- AAA-sized LiPo cells with protective circuits are bigger than regular AAA batteries, hence the shell modification is still required.
- Unprotected batteries do seem to be near perfectly AAA-sized, but they're a fire hazard. Hm...
Further direction of inquiry:
- Consider safer battery technology.
This article makes a point of using a diode between battery terminal:
The diode [1N4148] is placed between the positive battery terminal and the positive BAT point on the charger or Game Boy positive battery terminal. The purpose of the diode is to drop the voltage about .6 volts and prevent any "reverse charge" from reaching the battery during Game Boy use. Li-Ion/Li-Po batteries are typically 3.7 volts, and with the diode, it comes down to a more friendly 2.8 - 3.1 volts. Game Boys usually run from 3 volts (1.5V + 1.5V, for each AA or AAA). It's possible to run the Game Boy directly from the Li-Ion battery, but it is neither safe nor practical for long-term use.
Re. reusing DC-in as charging port. According to the schematic (page 5) , it seems that we could re-route DC jack pin 1 to the charging board (probably by cutting the trace and jumping) and possibly sever pin 3 (as it becomes unnecessary). Update ground connections accordingly.
EDIT. pin 3 should be shorted with pin2 I think actually...
Hey folks,
I've been thinking to try out the rechargeable mod on MGB. I watched a few videos on the subject, here's a couple:
1. Prime Time Funk Mods: How to LiPo Mod a Gameboy Pocket by Prime Time Funk Modsz
2. The RECHARGEABLE Gameboy Pocket Mod! by JayBoyMod
The typical set up is a low profile rectangular LiPo cell and a TP4056-based charging board with USB (micro or C). This requires trimming away the battery compartment, modifying the shell to accommodate the USB port (which often involves gluing the charging board to the PCB).
I was wondering if there is a cleaner way to do this mod. Specifically I'm wondering about the following:
- Does anything prevent us from re-using the DC in port as the charging port? This way there will be fewer modifications to the shell. It seems like something like this charging board could be used.
- Is there any reason AAA sized LiPo cells won't work? There will be no need for trimming the battery compartment.
Cheers!
Don't bother...
1. This is VGA, I'd like video capture into PC and / or AV
2. I don't see the schematic, I'd like to make it myself instead of buying
3. I didn't know if someone's done something, alternative solutions should not be attempted, but now I know
Ok, so back to the original idea of video capture / AV without FPGA.
I was browsing the web for some inspiration and found a couple of threads about NES emulation using Parallax Propeller. I am not very familiar with that uC so I don't quite buy that a full blown NES emulator could be made. But I don know that it is powerful enough to make almost SNES like games (e.g. http://www.instructables.com/id/El-Juga … -Console/)
From what I understand it can be clocked to 80MHz and SoC among other things has the video signal generator. With this in mind it appears that it could be used for VGA or NTSC / PAL signal generation for the gameboy. And it costs $8.
Is anyone familiar with Parallax Propeller?
How do you estimate the possibility of realizing this project with Propeller?
PS
Propeller datasheet https://www.parallax.com/sites/default/ … .4.0_0.pdf
Hell yeah, that'd be a new incarnation of the original gameboy. Less powerful, but with all fresh components. This actually made me thinking, is it possible to find an Arduino compatible micro controller with the characteristics closer to ones of the original gameboy. Then it would be possible to play both Arduboy games and write ports of original GameBoy games or maybe even make a translator...
friendofmegaman wrote:but you can put 50k or 20k, it will work but well be under or over "sensitive" so to speak.
Which is under and which is over?
Oh this was merely a metaphor. You see if the original pot is 30k, then when it's on 0 Ohm position the screen is white, on 30k - black. Now if you put 20k I it will never be fully black as if it was on 30k, therefore it's under-sensitive - because you turn the wheel the same distance but you achieve smaller resistance (20k, as opposed to 30k).
Let's apply this logic in reverse. If you're having a 50k the 2/3 way through the turn of the wheel you already reach 30k therefore your screen will turn black faster. This is what I meant by over-sensitive. Again = same turn of the wheel but larger resistance.
I admit it was a bad metaphor. Just discard it an use any of those, or better find 30k and be happy.
friendofmegaman wrote:When I see those symptoms it usually means that the brightness potentiometer is buggered.
Do you think ill have to replace the wheel?
I would replace it, yes. Make sure it's a compatible potentiometer. If I remember it correctly it's a 30k pot, 16mm. It's through hole, so relatively easy to de-solder, but be careful as the screen is close. In fact I think you're gonna have to lift that white frame around the LCD.
I also remember I was having hard times finding exactly 30k, but you can put 50k or 20k, it will work but well be under or over "sensitive" so to speak.
When I see those symptoms it usually means that the brightness potentiometer is buggered.
My hat off. Brilliant 
Worked out great, actually. Thanks man!
Here's a wee pair of pictures as far as scraping goes for future use.
Awesome!
Any examples of that procedure I could look at?
The copper trails are fucking miniscule though so I doubt I could solder to them.
I don't know of any illustrated tutorials for that. But I would disagree that they're miniscule, they're big enough. You could even solder them with enormous radioshack stock tip. Don't give up!
I hope you haven't thrown the panel away. It still can be saved. All you need to do is scrape the surface of the metal panel the ribbon cable was attached to. Scrape until you reach copper to solder to. Track which is + and which is -
Now that's interesting. I wonder how good are this sheets at light distribution?
I think it might be possible to create a hybrid backlight. Put 2-3 LEDs as in traditional backlights and let them be on for certain amount of time (should be determined experimentally). The ON time should be enough to charge the phosphorescent sheet. And then OFF time should be about the 'discharge' time.
The only point of doing this is battery life and I'm not sure how much it will save
Still I'd love to see how it looks
Lol, reminded me of ashens straight away as well
ChipMusic.org / Forums / Posts by friendofmegaman