1. This is VGA, I'd like video capture into PC and / or AV
2. I don't see the schematic, I'd like to make it myself instead of buying
3. I didn't know if someone's done something, alternative solutions should not be attempted, but now I know

Ok, so back to the original idea of video capture / AV without FPGA.

I was browsing the web for some inspiration and found a couple of threads about NES emulation using Parallax Propeller. I am not very familiar with that uC so I don't quite buy that a full blown NES emulator could be made. But I don know that it is powerful enough to make almost SNES like games (e.g. http://www.instructables.com/id/El-Juga … -Console/)

From what I understand it can be clocked to 80MHz and SoC among other things has the video signal generator. With this in mind it appears that it could be used for VGA or NTSC / PAL signal generation for the gameboy. And it costs $8.

Is anyone familiar with Parallax Propeller?
How do you estimate the possibility of realizing this project with Propeller?

Propeller datasheet https://www.parallax.com/sites/default/ … .4.0_0.pdf


(19 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Hell yeah, that'd be a new incarnation of the original gameboy. Less powerful, but with all fresh components. This actually made me thinking, is it possible to find an Arduino compatible micro controller with the characteristics closer to ones of the original gameboy. Then it would be possible to play both Arduboy games and write ports of original GameBoy games or maybe even make a translator...


(10 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

SketchMan3 wrote:
friendofmegaman wrote:

but you can put 50k or 20k, it will work but well be under or over "sensitive" so to speak.

Which is under and which is over?

Oh this was merely a metaphor. You see if the original pot is 30k, then when it's on 0 Ohm position the screen is white, on 30k - black. Now if you put 20k I  it will never be fully black as if it was on 30k, therefore it's under-sensitive - because you turn the wheel the same distance but you achieve smaller resistance (20k, as opposed to 30k).

Let's apply this logic in reverse. If you're having a 50k the 2/3 way through the turn of the wheel you already reach 30k therefore your screen will turn black faster. This is what I meant by over-sensitive. Again = same turn of the wheel but larger resistance.

I admit it was a bad metaphor. Just discard it an use any of those, or better find 30k and be happy.


(10 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Ansel wrote:
friendofmegaman wrote:

When I see those symptoms it usually means that the brightness potentiometer is buggered.

Do you think ill have to replace the wheel?

I would replace it, yes. Make sure it's a compatible potentiometer. If I remember it correctly it's a 30k pot, 16mm. It's through hole, so relatively easy to de-solder, but be careful as the screen is close. In fact I think you're gonna have to lift that white frame around the LCD.

I also remember I was having hard times finding exactly 30k, but you can put 50k or 20k, it will work but well be under or over "sensitive" so to speak.


(10 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

When I see those symptoms it usually means that the brightness potentiometer is buggered.


(19 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

My hat off. Brilliant smile


(10 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Famikiller wrote:

Worked out great, actually. Thanks man!

Here's a wee pair of pictures as far as scraping goes for future use.



(10 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Famikiller wrote:

Any examples of that procedure I could look at?
The copper trails are fucking miniscule though so I doubt I could solder to them.

I don't know of any illustrated tutorials for that. But I would disagree that they're miniscule, they're big enough. You could even solder them with enormous radioshack stock tip. Don't give up!


(10 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I hope you haven't thrown the panel away. It still can be saved. All you need to do is scrape the surface of the metal panel the ribbon cable was attached to. Scrape until you reach copper to solder to. Track which is + and which is -

Now that's interesting. I wonder how good are this sheets at light distribution?
I think it might be possible to create a hybrid backlight. Put 2-3 LEDs as in traditional backlights and let them be on for certain amount of time (should be determined experimentally). The ON time should be enough to charge the phosphorescent sheet. And then OFF time should be about the 'discharge' time.
The only point of doing this is battery life and I'm not sure how much it will save smile
Still I'd love to see how it looks

moviemovies1 wrote:

Lol, reminded me of ashens straight away as well smile


(2 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Tecosa wrote:

Alright, so I got a science-guy arduinoboy off eBay. One cable is for a DMG and the other is for color/advance. I was wondering if there is anyway of making the DMG input a color/advance one, so that I have two cables that would work to sync two advances. Would soldering work, or is there no way around this?

Thanks in advance. /wink

If I understand it right:

- You have an arduino boy that has a DMG and a GBA cables.
- You want it to have 2 GBA cables as opposed to 1-DMG 1-GBA
- And you want it in order to sync 2 GBAs.

Let's assume you made it and now you have 2 GBAs connected to you arduinoboy.

1. How do you know they will sync? I think what will happen is arduinoboy won't work at all. Because two cables are for your convenience only (depending on which GB your plugging it to). And they don't serve as syncing tool. But to be fair I've never tried that, so I might be wrong.

2. At what level do you want to sync them? Do you want two LSDJs run in sync? Or do you want to sync at MIDI level?

As for turning a DMG cable to a color one. Yes you can cut the DMG jack and solder a GB jack. However you must be extremely careful and test it thoroughly because colors of the wires are not consistent. That is soldering red wire of DMG link cable to the red wire of a GBA link cable doesn't guarantee that it's the same data/clock line. Do you see what I mean?

Sorry for not being able to help staright away, perhaps if you provide more details someone more educated than me will give you the correct response. Cheers!

Correct me if my wrong - DMG (as well as any other GB) has switching power supply, therefore if batteries and adapter are both in place battery supply is switched off.

Now if we replace batteries with a LiPo cell and wire adapter jack directly to charging PCB it should be fine. It will be powering the boy and charging the cell. No current will be sucked from the cell.

Or am I missing something?



(16 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

MidnightAbyss wrote:
friendofmegaman wrote:

You need this http://amzn.com/B004OKDW20. This is 40%

I got your link to work by removing the period. The stuff you linked is called 40 Volume but it's H2O2 percentage is 12% not 40%. Hair products are listed as V10, V20, V30, and V40. The jump from each one is 3% H2O2. So V10 has 3% and V40 has 12%.

Black light would go too.

Weird I'm pretty sure I read on the back of the tube that it has 40% H2O2... I'll double check it once I get home.

Plus I noticed you chose the xantam gum approach. I wouldn't recommend you that because the thing is too hard to clean off. Especially from groovy parts and screw holes. The hair solution I linked can be used as is. And way easier to remove.

Also updated link on the original post, sorry, didn't notice the dot.


(16 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

So in my experience 3% H2O2 isn't too efficient. You need this http://amzn.com/B004OKDW20 This is 40%

Buy a couple and coat your GB shells in it. Then wrap it in the clear (100% clear!) shrink wrap and put under UV light (or direct sunlight, but I haven't tried it I go with UV lamp).

Again in my experience small amounts of yellow goes off in mere hours, good deal of yellow in 24 hours, hardcore yellowness might take up to 48 hours.

What I tried it with:
- Original Famicom very yellowed - whitens it to 'vanilla' color, not perfectly white. Took 24 hours
- Famicom model 2 considerably yellowed (not too hardcore) - took 24 hours to restore original color
- NES controller so yellow, brown even - took around 40 hours to return to original color
- Front panel of SNES (one surrounding joystick slots) a bit yellowed - took 2 hours

This is ONLY relevant for the side EXPOSED TO UV. You need to turn it over and give another side a go (given it's also yellow of course, it might be good).

Retrobright works best on grey and colorful plastic. I think you will be able to fully recover your blueboy's color (I actually have one blueboy myself with a bit of yellowing but haven't brightened it yet).
As for white white (such as white boy) certainly give it a fair coat and leave it at least for 24 hours. It might not recover completely but should be much better.

And most importantly please keep us posted and show the pics wink