Updated progress
I'm still zeroing in on the component library; I haven't found any errors in it for a while, I'm hoping that's a good sign. Eagle's free version limits the size of the board, preventing me from making the 81x118mm screen-board, so I'm thinking about where to go from here.
I'll add this to the front page after I add component values and name at least some of the pins.
17 Apr 17, 2014 2:00 am
Re: DMG Main Board Schematic & Circuit (+Arduinoboy) (72 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)
18 Mar 21, 2014 6:58 pm
Re: DMG Main Board Schematic & Circuit (+Arduinoboy) (72 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)
I got this in my inbox today:
Yes, please do WHATEVER you want with the information I've posted.
I have family who's worked in intellectual property (patent prosecution), and have heard many 'a cautionary tale. One thing I've taken away is that everything, everything, can be contested. But things look good from here, especially when he reported a boost in sales
I should also mention, the inclusion of the AB is totally separate from the greater project. I'm much more inclined to use a Teensy, than an Arduino.
And, while I'm posting, I should mention that I've started work on the screen's PCB. And, as it turns out, I messed a few things up in my library (big surprise, right?). The pot the dmg uses is still very widely used today (Radioshack sells them), but I couldn't find a spec for them (that's Radioshack for you). It turns out that pins 1&2 are pre-pot, 2&3 are post-pot, and 5 is ground. Not surprising, right? What I didn't get is that 1&4 are one channel and 2&3 are for the other... There are several other things, this is just the most recent one. I'll update the plots when a final revision of the CPU PCB is made.
19 Mar 19, 2014 9:21 pm
Re: DMG Main Board Schematic & Circuit (+Arduinoboy) (72 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)
(i'd ask trash80 is you're seeking permission if you feel you need to do this, its his project)
edit - i mean, since xiwi's kit is based of trash80's work, ask the original creator. someone who did a work derived from the original or copied the original isn't who should be asked about using the original. the creator is. in this case, trash80.
if its a technical question, have at it. its unclear from the words. i'm assuming you mean to ask for the permission.
Trash80 released the AB under a GNU license, which I'm pretty sure only covers the software, not the hardware. Xiwi could, if he really wanted to, get after me for using a directive of his hardware, even if it's based off Trash80's.
It's just a healthy dose of IP paranoia, and it's best to have written permission whenever possible.
20 Mar 19, 2014 8:51 pm
Re: DMG Main Board Schematic & Circuit (+Arduinoboy) (72 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)
in the parts list there's a 1uf cap. this is most likely for the 7805 as called for in a voltage regulating circuit, solving the filtering issue.
Yeah, that's true. But I'm reluctant to update the AB schematic and plot on an account of ethics. (let me explain) (also, the board works under the assumption that you have regulated power, and know what you're doing with wiring the I/O)
I have the current and previous versions of Xiwi's AB kit PCBs in Eagle. He hasn't given the the go-ahead to publish his work, so I've just done a bear-bones version that is mostly just Trash80's schematic, complete with any problems, to avoid any potential conflict with his kit sales.
So, while I now know to add these parts, it was by means of his kit that I know it. I'd rather play it safe than sorry. I'll PM him and see.
21 Mar 19, 2014 1:38 am
Re: DMG Main Board Schematic & Circuit (+Arduinoboy) (72 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)
The capacitance will be in the datasheet for your particular crystal.
Oh. Yeah. That's taken care of. My question was related to the recommendation of using decoupling caps. The comment I made about the xiwi kit was in response to nitro's wtf moment about the clock.
22 Mar 17, 2014 11:00 pm
Re: DMG Main Board Schematic & Circuit (+Arduinoboy) (72 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)
The schematic is based off the Xiwi kit I have which uses one.
The AB board I made was intended to work independently from a full development board, while not being particularly fancy. I used through-hole components to make life easier for whoever wants to etch the board. I'm ok with publishing multiple variants of the AB here if there is want of it.
What capacitance should the cap be? I'm no EE guru.
Oh, and in that case add a programming header.
For the ATmega168? I don't know where to start for that. The last AB update was 12/21/12. If we're assuming that someone can flash the IC, they can re-flash it, right? All that would be needed would be to add an IC socket to remove it safely.
But I feel like I'm missing something here.
23 Mar 17, 2014 7:39 pm
Re: DMG Main Board Schematic & Circuit (+Arduinoboy) (72 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)
the arduinoboy needs some capacitors i think..
Only for the clock, which isn't included in trash80's original schematic.
24 Mar 16, 2014 11:49 pm
Re: DMG Main Board Schematic & Circuit (+Arduinoboy) (72 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)
Scans would be great! Thanks!
25 Mar 16, 2014 11:10 pm
Re: DMG Main Board Schematic & Circuit (+Arduinoboy) (72 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)
Thursdaycustoms is currently proofing the CPU PCB eagle file for circulation.
In the mean time, I've got a couple questions some of you may be able to help me with:
What is the purpose of the copper sticker on the back of the PCB?
Does the cap with unregulated power directly over the amp (C2) affect the audio coming out if it?
What's the significance of the six soldered holes near the top of the board?
Why are there leads from the screen socket going nowhere?
The rectangular stop masks on the back are for grounding the screen’s PCB, what are the circular ones for?
How dost one safely remove the DMG’s screen?
How dost one safely re-attach the DMG’s screen?
Can anyone ID the parts on the power regulation aux board? (is this right?)
Why are there jumpers (?) on the back of the screen’s board?
What would you want to change/add to the DMG’s circuitry to aid the musician/modder?
Is there anyone on this forum that would be willing to work collaboratively on an modded PCB?
Also, I don't actually know about the accuracy of the CPU/RAM pinouts and wouldn't know where to start. Can anyone corroborate this?
26 Mar 14, 2014 2:20 pm
Re: DMG Prosound Question (26 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)
Dang you guys are right. I still stand by my diminishing returns thing, that bypassing the amp circuit is so trivial that it's the only sound mod worth doing.
I agree with your point of demising returns, and that it's trivial to solder to the pre-pot vs. post-pot. Though, if it is as you say with power being the greater concern, what types of measures could be taken to benefit sound quality at least in theory. You see, I'm kinda starting on making a custom DMG PCB to make the modder's life a bit easier.
Also, also, if you wanted to bypass all that mess next to the amp, you could actually solder to the top leads of Resister 3(L) and 4(R) pretty easily.
27 Mar 14, 2014 1:11 am
Re: DMG Prosound Question (26 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)
The pro-sound DMG in that comparison looks like it's modded post-pot as well ;-)
I'd put money on it.
This is judging from the relative location of the pot's mounting points, D2, and that the ground is taken right below it. But herr_prof is right, it would have been easier to solder it to the pre-pot pins.
So, yeah, the sound sample is post-pot.
28 Mar 13, 2014 2:49 am
Re: DMG Prosound Question (26 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)
Yeah, that's a good article, but I'm talking more about a comparison of audio taken straight off the CPU vs it taken anywhere else.
29 Mar 13, 2014 2:37 am
Re: DMG Prosound Question (26 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)
double post somehow...
30 Mar 13, 2014 2:32 am
Re: DMG Prosound Question (26 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)
By the time it gets through the pot, each channel of audio has gone through a capacitor, a resistor, and whatever resistance is left in the pot.
It's ultimately a matter of preference, and won't matter unless you're wanting to record the best possible sound. Generally, the fewer kinks in the pipeline, the purer the sound. The other thing is interference, which would be more of a problem if you pulled audio at the amp (because it'd need to traverse the entire width of the board, past the CPU and over all its video related output), but I digress.
This is all theory coming from me, because I don't have the ability to do a comparison, but it'd be interesting to see.
31 Mar 12, 2014 11:11 pm
Re: DMG Prosound Question (26 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)
The stock headphone jack is actually what shuts the speaker off. There is no jack in existence(that I know of) that works the same way. The signal to the speaker actually runs directly through the headphone jack and is then cut off when anything is plugged in. A prosound jack will never do this unless you prosound the stock headphone jack.
I'm pretty sure the signal to the speaker doesn't actually go to the headphone jack. I think it's the amp that switches where the audio goes. The front speaker audio is summed mono, and there's nothing on the audio-jack board to do that. That and there are three connections between the amp and the headphone board, I'm assuming 2 are the stereo audio, and I'm guessing the third looks to see if you've plugged in headphones (the fourth is ground). I haven't taken that apart yet, so I can't say for sure.
There are several permanent ways to disable audio to the front speaker if that's what you're after, but an intermediary switch is the only way I know of to selectively disable the front audio aside from putting a dummy 1/8" plug into it.
Why did you choose to solder to the post-pot pins?
32 Mar 12, 2014 8:31 pm
Re: My broken gameboy (5 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)
If it isn't batteries, try temporary de-soldering the backlight's leads, wrap the tips with a bit of electrical tape so they don't short anything out, and try it again. While your at it, make sure you didn't accidentally short the board at the point you soldered the backlight.
I'm assuming your gameboy worked normally at some point in time, when did it stop working? Was it right after you first installed the backlight?
If it's a short, check for any part of the board that is unreasonably hot while the switch is on.
Try these things, and we can continue trouble shooting if nothing fixes it.