Yea now that you say that it does make sense, I guess in a sense if it is post pot its as if I just had another stock jack on the DMG without the preamp. Ill rewire it tomorrow and see what difference it makes.
herr_prof wrote:Yeah, that's a good article, but I'm talking more about a comparison of audio taken straight off the CPU vs it taken anywhere else.
There are so many other factors than capacitors and resistors, especially considering that these passive components are in fact filtering and prepping the audio for listening purposes. What you really need to be concerned about is the quality of the power supply and noise there-in. You are what you eat...what goes in must come out...err... something like that. What I mean to say is that most of the power supplies are piss-poor and not only do they introduce most of the noise you here in the output but they are also not at all the same from boy to boy, or cpu to cpu for that matter.
I think there is definitely a effort reward balence here. A prosound is cheap, but is doing more in depth mods really going to sound that much better.
I think there is definitely a effort reward balence here. A prosound is cheap, but is doing more in depth mods really going to sound that much better.
To true. Also, at what point does "improved" audio quality begin to effect authenticity?
Well, it might not be authentic but at least it will be "pro"!
herr_prof wrote:I think there is definitely a effort reward balence here. A prosound is cheap, but is doing more in depth mods really going to sound that much better.
To true. Also, at what point does "improved" audio quality begin to effect authenticity?
I dont care about that, its more of a cost benefit ratio. At what point would the money spent on making on a gameboy sounding better be better spent on buying an actual synthesizer designed actually for music.
Post pot kinda defeats the purpose., the whole point of the pro sound is to tap the signal prepot for better sound fidelity that is uncolored by the crappy headphone pot.
I am not a lawyer, but isn't the whole 'point' to bypass the headphone amp circuit and get closer to line level output?
FWIW my post-pot mod sounds badass/loud, and relatively noise free (not counting the display). I'd be curious to hear if there was any noticeable difference vs. pre-pot though... I'm not really married to it, it was a split second soldering decision, but the convenience of the volume pot on the DMG has come in handy while composing, and for relative consistency since most of my synths have physical master volume knobs. Granted, leaving an extra gain-stage isn't the greatest idea, but it's been handy while writing since I don't have to move an extra 5 feet to experiment with levels a little, haha. Lazy FTW.
The pro-sound DMG in that comparison looks like it's modded post-pot as well ;-)
I think its taken off the input of the pot, just because that is a easier pad to solder than anything else.
The pro-sound DMG in that comparison looks like it's modded post-pot as well ;-)
I'd put money on it.
This is judging from the relative location of the pot's mounting points, D2, and that the ground is taken right below it. But herr_prof is right, it would have been easier to solder it to the pre-pot pins.
So, yeah, the sound sample is post-pot.
Last edited by bit 9 (Mar 14, 2014 1:12 am)
Dang you guys are right. I still stand by my diminishing returns thing, that bypassing the amp circuit is so trivial that it's the only sound mod worth doing.
Dang you guys are right. I still stand by my diminishing returns thing, that bypassing the amp circuit is so trivial that it's the only sound mod worth doing.
I agree with your point of demising returns, and that it's trivial to solder to the pre-pot vs. post-pot. Though, if it is as you say with power being the greater concern, what types of measures could be taken to benefit sound quality at least in theory. You see, I'm kinda starting on making a custom DMG PCB to make the modder's life a bit easier.
Also, also, if you wanted to bypass all that mess next to the amp, you could actually solder to the top leads of Resister 3(L) and 4(R) pretty easily.