works fine for me with a big one. I just removed some plastic of the shield.
The noise is acceptable now.
Last edited by turboninja (Sep 25, 2018 6:54 pm)
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france
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Since 32 pin and 40 pin GBAs are different does anyone know what holes to use with the 32 pin board? I included a pic of the boards. Upper one of 40, lower one is 32.
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Sweden
PriMieon: I did like this on a 32 pin GBA: soldered the positive capacitor leg to the power switch pin with a C above it and the negative to the ground pad to the right next to the switch.
I guessed which holes to use (close to the ones on the 40 pin instructions) and traced them to the power switch with a multimeter. Not 100% sure it’s correct but it reduced the noise a bit I think. If this is wrong please let me know, see it as an experiment for now 
.
Here is another method that I think seems better, haven’t tried it though. https://support.retrosix.co.uk/support/ … -gba-audio
PriMieon wrote:
Since 32 pin and 40 pin GBAs are different does anyone know what holes to use with the 32 pin board? I included a pic of the boards. Upper one of 40, lower one is 32.
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Ledfyr wrote:
PriMieon: I did like this on a 32 pin GBA: soldered the positive capacitor leg to the power switch pin with a C above it and the negative to the ground pad to the right next to the switch.
I guessed which holes to use (close to the ones on the 40 pin instructions) and traced them to the power switch with a multimeter. Not 100% sure it’s correct but it reduced the noise a bit I think. If this is wrong please let me know, see it as an experiment for now
Here is another method that I think seems better, haven’t tried it though. https://support.retrosix.co.uk/support/ … -gba-audio
PriMieon wrote:
Since 32 pin and 40 pin GBAs are different does anyone know what holes to use with the 32 pin board? I included a pic of the boards. Upper one of 40, lower one is 32.
Thank you for sharing this. It might be something I'm gonna have a look into
I especially found this very interesting:
RetroSix wrote:
[...]I plan to create a CleanPower board for the GBA in future, making this fix irrelevant then, but until then you will need to place a solid state capacitor (not a normal aluminium capacitor) on the VDD2 rail. Solid state capacitors have lower ESR than the aluminium capacitors and that is key to the filtering working.
Last edited by ScanianWolf (Sep 28, 2020 12:24 pm)
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Paris, France
Sorry for double posting,
I actually bought two dehum capacitor kits from retrosix and installed in one of my GBAs plus performed that internal amp bypass/prosound mod that scannerboy suggested from a thread here on the forum (See Photo).
Unfortunately I can’t say that I’m very happy with the result. It could very much be my lacklustre soldering skills, but I felt that I did a rather decent job.
Maybe someone with more knowledge in electronics could tell whether the internal prosound mod could cause the noise and mess with the capacitor de-noise mod?
I’ll update this post with photos and sound recordings tomorrow.
___________________________________________
UPDATE 2020-11-15
Sorry, didn't get to do this earlier. I'm gonna upload some photos too!
The GBA without the dehum capacitor mod has its' amp bypass routed from the points from behind the PCB.
Don't think there should be any difference compared to the points next to the a and b button pads from the front side of the PCB but your knowledge may vary.
GBA w/ ProSound Mod/Amp bypass (without the dehum capacitor kit)
Booting Nanoloop 2.8.2
Extract from song
GBA w/ ProSound Mod/Amp bypass with the dehum capacitor kit
Booting Nanoloop 2.8.2
Extract from song
Last edited by ScanianWolf (Nov 16, 2020 10:50 am)